Revell Type IX C (U505 Late) 1/72nd

[salmon]

Here are a couple of post inspection photos that show deck wear and patterns. I like these because there is a lot you can read into these, from traffic patterns to possible stains.


Jeff, I read what you did about the darker paint. Looking at this shot you can see just how much darker it seems to be. I also read that the paint quality became a problem and did not withstand the weather. I am still pondering the light gray showing through. The photos do show a light gray, but also something brighter (whiter?) look at the guy scooting along the edge..
Paul, there is so much to guess in a black and white photo, what seems like a shade of gray can be a patch of rust or what looks white good be yellow for all we know. I am enjoying this conversation, sure gets the head scratching, but it is fun.
Here is a good shot showing how much darker the Turm was (granted this is wet while other photos the sail is dry and not as noticeable).

[southern or]

Just out of curiosity, has anyone asked the Museum of Science and Industry Chicago if they have any historical photos or the USN Archives? I'm just wondering, I'm going to do something similar next month for Matt when I pay the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry a visit for the Blueback.

[JWLaRue]

I am still pondering the light gray showing through. The photos do show a light gray, but also something brighter (whiter?) look at the guy scooting along the edge..

Agreed that we cannot be 100% certain at this point. I also agree that the quality of paint used at this point in time did vary quite a bit....so those lighter patches could easily be different shades of the light gray.

-Jeff

[salmon]

Played with Nitro-Stan and making rivets, my success was spotty at best (I crack myself up).


Merriman - Caswell fittings kit for the type IX includes deck morning fixtures that use magnets. I believe they began using magnets to hold down the deck on the Type VII when it was released and continue it for this sub.
At first, I was getting frustrated with the pieces falling out of place or gluing my fingers together. Then I made a little holder.


A little CA and hold the piece in place. Soon it was affixed and set aside to dry.

[salmon]

Placed magnets (2) into each hole. Not pressing them in all the way just a little proud of the lip that the deck rests on in the hull.


Then press the deck down onto the hull, seating the magnets into their foundations. I took a longer magnet that I had and used it to mark on top of the deck where the magnet below it was with a pencil.

Using that pencil guide, took the top magnet from the foundation and held it in place with the longer magnet from above the deck.

A drop of CA and a pinch of baking soda and the magnet was set underneath.


Test to make sure no mistakes were made and to see fit. So far, it looks good.

[salmon]

Just a little more about the decks being attached.
There are some magnet foundations that needed the lip filed out so the magnet will fit in.


I found that placing the foundation's magnet on a flat plier (not sure the name of this plier), then use it to press the magnet into the foundation. This made it a whole lot easier.

[salmon]

The foundation magnet is not pushed all the way in. It will get pushed down when the deck magnet is on top and the deck is pressed on it.


You can see the deck magnet on top of the foundation magnet. You can also see where I filed the hull edge, oops.

The test fitting of the tube told me I needed to remove and relocate a couple of magnets. I will show that later.

Another thing I learned in the test fit is I will need to remove these ridges that are for the models bulkhead. It prevents the tube from sliding forward.


Now confession time, there are more foundations supplied than magnets. I got carried away before I realized my mistake. I asked David where I might get some more magnets and he said he would send me enough to cover my mistake. Thank you David!

[dougie995]

Hello gents,

Sorry to come to the debate a bit late.

Thanks for posting the link to my U 505 modifications and colours article (http://amp.rokket.biz/lib_uboats.shtml). On page 44 you can see a colour photo of U 858 with shows the colour where the paint has peeled off the tower. The Kriegsmarine had a problem with paint adhesion on the towers - particularly the lower half of the towers - on the late war IXs (though the VIICs didn't seem to have the same problem). When U 530 got to Argentina the photos show hardly any paint left on the tower. It is very surprising just how bad the problem was.

I've discussed the subject of what the colour was after the paint has peeled with a few folks. The question is whether it was merely a light grey underneath or whether all the paint had peeled? A few of us think that all the paint had peeled off, leaving bare metal that was stained by salt, thus making it a white-silver colour. Does this sound reasonable?

On my model of U 505 I had a go at replicating the finish and used a whitish-silver colour.





The images show my attempt at weathering. Sorry that the quality isn't that good. I'm not sure you can see it that well but I added plantlife on the lower hull plus quite a few bits of salt staining on the upper hull. I also added battle damage too, hence why the deck railings are bent.

The other subject discussed in this thread was how the metal hatches on the deck appeared white in some photos. Now and again you will see the metal hatches on the deck shining brightly and looking white. I think this might just be the light shining off the metal in a different way to the rest of the wooden deck? Other factors may be salt staining.

If you look again at the U 858 photo on page 44 you will see a small square hatch on the deck near the edge of the deck. You will also see a large area that looks white on the deck ahead of the tower. This was a metal section that was added to the deck when the late war Askania fairing replaced the older magnetic compass fairing at the front of the tower. The metal here is shining white (or whitish-silver). It could be that this paint had not adhered well (just like on the tower) and that salt staining had an effect too.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Dougie
(from AMP)

[salmon]

Dougie,
First your sub is beautiful. You went for the just captured look and I like the extra details you put in. Second, your opinions are always welcomed! Third, I will part from your thought on reflection on the hatches, and I thought that light reflecting was the cause too, but the inspection photo shows distinctive light gray color (smooth even color not splotchy) at the dock. I do not know we can compare the U 858 to the U 505 because each sub had it's own character. Jeff mention maybe the crew painted it, I do not know. I still will move forward with light gray on those hatches just to be different.
I admire your work and documentation you did on the sub. Thank you so much!
Peace,
Tom

[JWLaRue]

I thought I suggested that those hatches could be unpainted (or untreated) wood.....? Tom's observation that the look of them is just too even and consistent is spot on.

-Jeff

[salmon]

Jeff, Yes! you are right, you did say unpainted. Where did I pull that from? Thank you for keeping me honest and accurate.

[southern or]

Well Tom should be happy now.

[salmon]

The magnets are in for the deck, no photo, but they work very well.
Worked on getting the Caswell/Merriman Sub-Driver in.
One of the parts included is the mounting bracket for the Sub-Driver. There is a threaded hole for a 2-56 screw to go into. also one for a brass wire to be inserted as a securing pin. I mounted the velcro strap with a washer and the 2-56 screw. Used CA to seal the threads from the bottom as I tightened the screw in. The Wire I used was a scrap piece I had in my brass box. I did not pay attention to the size, but cut it so it was flush on the bottom and plenty on top to hold the tube.


Wrapping the velcro around the tube, the piece is held in place ready to be installed.


Placed a line of RTV silicon in the channel. This is where the mounting bracket or foundation will go into.


Placing the tube in, using the Dumas dog bone as the spacer, the tube is placed in and pressed down into the RTV silicon.


Pushing the tube forward, it begins to spread the bow area because the lip on the end is a little wide.

You might be able to see it pressed against the wall of the hull. Not sure if it is clear here. so it will need to be marked and filed down.

[thor]

Tom,

The rate at which your skills have improved since first coming aboard this hobby is truly stunning! Well done, my friend!

[salmon]

Thank you Matt! Very kind of you.

This photo should have been with the prior post, but you are limited by the number of photos and total upload amount.
I took a pencil (and then a fine point Sharpe to make it show up in the photo) to give me an idea as to where the end cap rubbed against the hull. I will use that line to sand/file the end cap to somewhat match the hull.


Now a first. I have not played with torpedoes and I thought this is the time to add a couple. When I do get a chance to run a sub, the question about torpedoes usually comes up by a passerby or someone mildly interested in getting involved. The desire to get experience in the many facets of our hobby precluded me from skipping this. There was not much to photo here and the steps to install the basic foundation were file open the Revell torpedo tube opening to fit the brass tube. Slide the tubes into the torpedo foundation included in the fittings kit. set the spacer in-between the tubes and that was it. Now I need to contemplate how I want to activate the launch itself.


I will put the top torpedo doors on and launch from the bottom doors. My thinking on that is to keep the weight low.

Once I had a breather, I found myself daydreaming and pretending to launch a shot or two.




I guess I better get back to work on the sub.