Revell Type IX C (U505 Late) 1/72nd

[salmon]

The end cap was pushing the hull apart because it is a little wide for the area as the hull is getting narrow. To fix this I need to taper the sided of the end cap to give clearance. The marking I did before gave me an estimated area that needed to be removed. Breaking out a flat file side of the end cap are tapered.

The vertical and horizontal lines are there for me to use as a guide so I know which way is up and make sure the sides a sort of even.


Here is a shot of the bevel put on it.


Placing the Sub-Driver back in I could see I have plenty of room now.

[salmon]

It was getting late the other day and I wanted to see the deck on and assembled everything until....Rut-Roe.

Sorry about the poor photos. I wanted to document it, but also wanted to get sleep. Not a cussing kind of guy but this sure got me close.
So, next day, I inspected everything to see if I did anything blazingly wrong. Not finding anything, I decided to figure out what next.

Checked to see if I could shave down or install lower to make the deck set low. No, the amount needed to get it to clear was too great.
So some rework is needed. It is things like this that makes subs fun! Things just do not go by the book sometimes. It is your attitude to resolving the issue at hand that makes a big difference. I was not going to let this defeat me.
I removed the vent foundation that goes into the battery compartment. It took a careful twist with a plier and it popped off. Now that leaves me a hole to fill. A little duct tape was placed underneath and a dollop of Alumilite casting urethane was placed on top to seal the vent. Checked to make sure it did not interfere with the deck and it did not, in fact by grace it becomes a perfect support for the deck.

[salmon]

Let the urethane to set overnight and then put a little RTV rubber on the inside also.


The new location for the vent foundation was next to the original just a little more to the side. The vent does not need to be mounted directly on top. So moving it to the side, along with a little reshaping, it looks like it will be a nice modification.


After shaving and reshaping the foundation, it was tested to see if it would clear the deck and give me an idea where it will need to be placed.


Measuring the distance between the edge of the foundation and center of hole transferred that distance to the tube. Then using a Foredom, drilled a hole to match the foundation's hole.
To install the foundation in the new location it is taped off while holding it in the proper location. Then sanded inside the box created to give the RTV something to grip onto. Carefully placed RTV around the base of the foundation and placed it so the hole I drilled aligned with the vent foundation's hole.


Now what to do with the float valve? This float will prevent water from being sucked into the WTC. It must be located upright and on the top of the Sub-Driver. There is another hole already drilled on top, it is for the option of getting a Propel gas backup. So moving the valve over to this hole place the top of the float perfectly under the very front of the sail.

[salmon]

This photo is reposted here again because I wanted to point out the float nipple was redirected to point to an area that has more room for the hose to be run through. It also shows the vent foundation installed.


Here is a close up of the fit with hose attached.

This also messed up my original idea for mounting the turim. So now what? The best laid plans......then staring at the sail and the hull with the Sub-Driver tube installed, I came up with an alternate way to mount the sail directly to the deck, but it will not be an easy removal like one screw and magnets would be.
Cut two strips of styrene to go across the sail's base.

[salmon]

Oh I have not shown the deck.

It fits!

Drilled a hole on each side of the newly installed strips by placing the deck and sail together and drilled from the bottom of the deck through the strips installed. Then attached four 2-56 screws and nuts.

[redboat219]

Attachments # 1181-1186 don't show

[salmon]

Thank you Romel for catching that!

This photo is reposted here again because I wanted to point out the float nipple was redirected to point to an area that has more room for the hose to be run through. It also shows the vent foundation installed.



Here is a close up of the fit with hose attached.



This also messed up my original idea for mounting the turim. So now what? The best laid plans......then staring at the sail and the hull with the Sub-Driver tube installed, I came up with an alternate way to mount the sail directly to the deck, but it will not be an easy removal like one screw and magnets would be.
Cut two strips of styrene to go across the sail's base.



Oh I have not shown the deck.


It fits!

Drilled a hole on each side of the newly installed strips (one hole in each corner) by placing the deck and sail together and drilled from the bottom of the deck through the strips installed. Then attached four 2-56 screws and nuts.

[bwi]

Great workaround’s Tom……that’s what it’s all about….make a plan, put it into practice, beat yourself up if it doesn’t work, adapt your initial plan and go fwd.

I really enjoy this thread.

Grtz,
Bart

[salmon]

Thank you Bart!
I think that is one of the things I love about our hobby. The challenges every build offers and the opportunity to be creative to overcome those challenges. It keeps this old mind working.
Peace,
tom

[thor]

Masterfully executed, Tom! Now, we need to beat up on Tim and Tom to host another Subs only Fun Run in the Denver areas or there abouts, and we can all get together to ogle your excellent piece of engineering.....How about a Fun Run in Vegas this next summer????? We'll all pitch in!

[salmon]

Thanks, Matt! I am looking at having a smaller fun run in Vegas, but not as a large event. Keystone was a interesting experience and I am not sure what I can accomplish with life situations at hand.
I have learned things from true masters across this country and world. The SCR has been a wealth of information.

[thor]

Keep it informal and simple. The less stress, the more fun.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Tom,
Matt is right on putting on a small get together.
1. Find a suitable pond.
2. Get permission to use it by explaining how our boats work. Ease their questions.
3. While getting permission discuss possible dates.
4. Set a date a few months out. 6 or more to give everyone time to plan on getting there.
5. Then plan it like a potluck picnic.
6. Promote it as such as often as you can and get people to commit to coming.
7. Make and publish a list of those who do commit to entice others to come meet friends they only know of from the forums.
8. Follow thorough and put the event on even if only two or three show up. This tell every one who did not come, you are serious about having a fun event.
9. Plan for a second get together.

This is how you start an event that becomes a yearly scheduled gathering.

You where at the gathering in Yorba Linda, CA.
There were how many of us? 6 or 7 with boats and a few non boat friends and family members.
Those who showed up seemed to enjoy themselves.
The second Yorba Linda event had a couple more people attend.
Unfortunately, you and your family had other commitments and could not attend.

Having vendors and maybe even prizes are nice but these things come in time.
I know they make things more complicated and can take the fun out of an event for the people trying to put the event on.
Bare bones events works for me.

[salmon]

Found more photos while looking at another build log, funny how one rabbit hole leads you to another.
This site has some photos taken of the capture: http://uboatarchive.net/U-505A/U-505Photographs.htm
Here are some I selected for this build. Some still support the lighter colored hatches.

[salmon]

Last two


I am going to start populating the Sub-Driver and adding ballast to begin an initial trim.