O.K. I bypassed the Deans type connector and all works.
Still need to setup leveler and for that I am going to create a holder for that.
I need to finish this Sub-Driver so I can finish the model.
Moving along that line, I moved the float valve forward and had the original hole covered with electricians tape. That is what David Merriman uses on any openings in the ballast area, if it becomes an issue, I can fill it.

I did redo the tape and put on a larger piece.
Battery compartment has several holes that can be used for pushrods seals or the archaic manual switch (yeah I am loving the magnetic switch that Kevin McLeod makes).
So I taped one end.

Flipped it over

filled with Metal Glaze (Bondo type material)

Once dried I put some CA on the back side to seal it. The front will get a light sanding make it nice and flush.
For the Magnetic Switch, I made the holder. I am still debating whether to use it or not.
Still need to setup leveler and for that I am going to create a holder for that.
I need to finish this Sub-Driver so I can finish the model.
Moving along that line, I moved the float valve forward and had the original hole covered with electricians tape. That is what David Merriman uses on any openings in the ballast area, if it becomes an issue, I can fill it.
I did redo the tape and put on a larger piece.
Battery compartment has several holes that can be used for pushrods seals or the archaic manual switch (yeah I am loving the magnetic switch that Kevin McLeod makes).
So I taped one end.
Flipped it over
filled with Metal Glaze (Bondo type material)
Once dried I put some CA on the back side to seal it. The front will get a light sanding make it nice and flush.
For the Magnetic Switch, I made the holder. I am still debating whether to use it or not.
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