Revell Type IX C (U505 Late) 1/72nd

[salmon]

Bob,
That is funny that we are like racehorses (although not fast, especially me) running neck to neck on our builds. You do have a simple and effective mounting of the switch, but what's the fun in that? Come on, we are to make headaches for ourselves. We are to make this hobby so difficult that no one wants to build. We are to give the illusion of magic over science......... Wait looking at your picture, you only put one set of deans plugs in. I was wondering if I needed to make the switch removable. Bob, did you play with the switch to see if the magnetic switch made a difference on its orientation (the smd chip that the magnet works on) or am I over thinking this again?

As far as the flying sub,I want to build one, so document away and I will follow your build. That's why we do this really, share our good, bad, and ugly builds, so that others can learn from our successes and mistakes.

Now on to that holder thingy.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Tom,
A thought.
Take your magnetic switch.
Make a plastic holder for it that you shape to fit in the cylinder.
A couple holding tabs or small screws to hold switch.
Make the plastic holder so you can slide the switch in???
Mount the plastic holder to top of cylinder.
Clean and neat install.

You can remove the switch and leave the holder attached.

[salmon]

Ralph,
That is along the lines of what I was thinking!
I thank Bob though because I did not even think of simply silicon or RTV the piece in. That is why I so appreciate Bob's and your comments. Thank you guys!

[bob_eissler]

I think Kevin mentioned which side to place outwards somewhere. I know it works fine. I have to finish the conning tower. Went with the photo etched deck for better draining but it takes more time.

I also have to get the torpedo launcher installed but I ballasted the sub in the bathtub with the launcher in place so the balance is close. Almost warm enough to fill up the pool here and do more testing.

[salmon]

Beautiful! Please keep posting!

[salmon]

Bob, indeed the way you mounted it is the preferred way. According to the instructions, if an overload happens, the solid-state relay might get hot. If it was against the tube's wall, it might damage the tube.

This device is sweet. Soldering the battery leads to the switch.


Then the output to the engine room.


Tested it and it works. How simple is that? There are two models a 5A and 10A. This is a 10A version.
Once I got the magnet close the LED goes solid and as I remove the magnet it blinks showing me it is on. Then bring the magnet close again, the LED goes solid and then the LED turns off. Cool, that is it. No external switch, no, leaking boot. I like this a lot! Kevin this is brilliant!

I have not abandon my holder idea.

Testing a cheap Chinese ESC to see if it will handle the motor's draw. Of course the instructions do not match the unit and using the best guess. Hopefully no smoke.

[salmon]

So, after playing with the wiring, I got the ESC to work.

Got everything wired in and the ESC does not work.What in the world? Bad solder job? Multi-metered my way around following the power trail. There were two areas that had issues. Not the solder joints at all, but the connectors. The Deans plug from the battery when plugged all the way in, power would cut off. Wiggle the plug out and it would connect. I made a bigger bow in the connector it works now. Next on down the line was from the ESC to the motor. I got power to the black Deans type connector. On the side to the motor nothing. No power was making it to the motor. The ESC was working. It was the connector again.
Have you run into issues with Deans plugs?

I am really enjoying the magnetic switch!

[Guest]

Never had a moments trouble with deans plugs, and I've been using them now for some years. You do need a good iron (50w minimum) to avoid cold joints, as the connectors are pretty good heatsinks.

[salmon]

Thanks Andy, great observation. I will recheck the solder joints. Thought they were all shiny and well melted together. That being said, it is not like I have not done a cold solder before.

[tsenecal]

technically, those aren't deans brand connectors. they are "deans style" chinese knock-offs. they should work like deans, if they used exactly the same materials.... but we all know about chinese quality control, don't we? real deans ultra connectors only come in red, and don't have the little side ribs that make them easier to disconnect...

[Guest]

All mine are pattern connectors. The early ones I purchased were smooth, later ones came with the ribs on. They both work the same. Never had a single issue with them.

As in all things YMMV, I can only speak from my own experience.

[PaulC]

I can attest to the challenge of soldering Deans connectors. However, I've never had an issue once I got them properly soldered.

[salmon]

So what I hear everyone saying is "It is something I did." O.K. I can go with that, but not without a fight. I should be able to do resistance metering from solder to other end of plug, yes? that might help where I made an error?

[Guest]

I use a 50w iron for soldering my Deans connectors.

I strip and twist the ends of the cable, pre tin the ends of both the wire and the plug with some multicore 60/40 , then I apply a small amount of extra rosin flux to the cable before sweating the cable to the connector with the iron. The flux isn't strictly necessary, but I find it really helps the joint to flow nicely and i love the smell of burning rosin in the morning.

I clean any excess flux off with isopropanol, repeat for the other polarity, then heatshrink the connections.

[PaulC]

That's basically my approach too. The iron heat is the real trick IMO. The parts really do work as heatsinks when held in my alligator clip holder.