Walrus class 1/60 scale - Scaleshipyard

[salmon]

Since this was not going to be controlled by a servo I went with a way to make adjustments if needed (a slight downward angle will help with the sail's drag - your forward speed will play into it as well).


I hope this will make sense, but I used a 1/16" rod attached to the plane horn (brass plate soldered to a wheel collet and the rod has a z bend on the end). Then the brass rod goes through a hole in the resin with another 1/16" hole intersecting the rod hole. I installed in a 2/56 screw into this intersecting hole. The idea is, I can tighten the screw onto the rod to lock the piece in place. If I ever need to make an adjustment, it is a simple loosening of the screw and move the planes then retighten.

With that the planes sit where I need them.

[salmon]

The sail or fairwater from ScaleShipyard.com comes with the original design. I wanted to modernize it a little.


I had no idea where to start, I ran into this paper model.

https://ninjatoes.wordpress.com/category/miscellaneous/royal-netherlands-navy/

With that, I enlarged the parts for the sail and took some thin plastic and cut out a rough shape.



I filled the shape with bonds to strengthen it.




A lot of sanding and filling including hollowing it out in areas it finally sat on the sail nice.


I was going to make a brass screen to try to mimic the real sub, but it did not go well.


Could I create a 3D model instead?


That went well enough and I was now able to create a master to make a mold from.

[salmon]

The molding on the sail piece would need to wait while I continued working on the sub.
I began fixing some of the issues with bubbles, pits, seams, and broken surface. I created a screed to shape the aft end equally.


The idea is a place an amount of bond down and rotate the screed. Since the screed is turning on the shaft, it makes for good aft end.


Then sand down and if necessary do it again.

[scott t]

Wow Tom, how long did you work on that diffuser?
Looks great.

[salmon]

Thank you Scott!
I did not record how long, let me look at date stamps on the photos.......it appears on and off for 5 months.
Peace,
Tom

[salmon]

So, having components made it was time to get some big parts together. Beginning with getting the saddles installed and checking the fit.

I used a marine epoxy, but as I now understand is, might not have cleaned off the wax on the interior well enough or the epoxy was not a good choice (see discussion at beginning of WIP).

The use of two saddles gave enough support for the WTC (Water Tight Container/Cylinder) and kept everything aligned.

When I made the saddle, I was told to get the height so that the output from the WTC aligns with the shaft. It did and I let out a sigh of relief.

I could have bought a set of wheel collars or shaft collars, but what is the fun in that? I have a tendency to over tighten the grub screws so creating this prevents me from doing that. Weeeeeellllll, not actually prevent me, but I am aware not to.

[salmon]

Each of the aft rudders has its own control rod. The shaft collar collects is used to tighten the two control rods to one push rod exiting the WTC.


There are two additional pieces I made. One was the lip needed to keep the cylinder from moving forward. It is screwed into the hull.


The other piece is on the aft end and receives a rod or pin attached to the endcap. This will serve two purposes, aligns the output of the servos consistently and it will prevent the tube from rotating.


The shaft that fits between the output of the WTC and the propellor is made. You can see how this is made in the Gato build.


The lead weights were made by using the 3D printer. In the past, I would have made them out of clay then cast the clay in a plaster designed for heat (like Ultracal) and then soaked the mold to soften the clay for removal. In this case, I made a 3D model of the weight and did not do any post cure process. Used the plaster and when it was soaked, the 3D model fell apart leaving a nice cavity. I thought I took pictures of this process, but apparently I did not.
I like to do the bulk of my weight central on a sub or under the ballast tank. Weight in the center allows the sub to turn easier, I have been told. To prevent a smaller sub from bobbing or reducing the effect of waves, weight should be distributed to the ends. Someday, I want to do a more scientific study to prove or disprove this or for good info for an SCR article, but for now that is how I think.


To hold the cylinder down, I though of doing a clamp like this:

The arch would screw into the ballast saddle. I decided not to when the upper hull did not fit and I was not sure if I wanted the hassle of screws (I tend to lose them in the field). I have an idea of a locking mechanism, but did not want to mess with it on this build.
Instead I created a velcro holder. It is two pieces. The base is screwed bolted to the hull and the top piece pinches the velcro and using 2/56 nuts is secured to the base.

[salmon]

Here is a shot looking into the end of the Walrus. You can see the base of the aft planes and the shank or wheel collars. I replaced the standard grub screw with a larger head and stainless steel (Tom Spettel's favorite words).


It was time to do a final check by the master, Will Oudmayer, before I did my open water run.


It passed his inspection!

Then it was time to run the sub. The pressure to perform got ramped up when Mike Dory joined us.



With shaky hands and every emotion in me wanting to come out all at once, I maintained my cool and ran the sub.


Once done (I cannot remember how long it was run maybe 3 1/2 hours) we did a post run check up. Everything was dry with no issues.


With that under my belt, it is time to do more final stuff to the sub.

[sam reichart]

Awesome stuff, Tom. Too bad there’s a shortage of Walrus class models out there. Looks like a really cool sub.

[bob_eissler]

Think someone bought a hull at Carmel last year.

[salmon]

I have grown to really enjoy this sub! Never worked on an x-tail and I really like the clean look these smaller subs have.

Here is the scale person I printed up as I finish some details on the sail. It helps me to compare my placement with photos and just to keep things in perspective.


Soldered up some wire for railing.


Also made an area that I could place the men in to be at the helm while on display (naw, just adding a small detail here).

This is above the lights and to block any light that might escape.

Installed the exhaust manifold.


Added some detail on top. Here is the parts so far....


The antenna masts and scopes were made in 3D.


Using the 3D parts, I was able to test the fit in the sail and make adjustments as needed.


When it came to making a mold, the paint reacted with the rubber and did not cure completely.


I went ahead and cast up some resin pieces (put some wire inside to add strength). Any imperfections from the rubber not curing, I dealt with post casting.


Let there be light!
I cut a piece of plastic and drilled a couple of pockets into it. In those pockets I glued the LED. I also made the plastic like a "W" thinking that the light will be reflected back out and not across to the other side. Painted it black to stop light leaks (I know it is not completely painted here, I scraped a bunch off testing the fit in the sail. Paint was touched up once finally installed.

[salmon]

Installed light and tested again.


Painted the sail again and sealed it. Then I sanded down the lights because I left them slightly proud.

[salmon]

So some of the pictures jump around in timeframe (hull is gray one moment and black the next) I tried to keep things in logical order (as logical as my mind works LOL).
Please for give me if I make things more confusing.....We are getting close to live action build meaning where I am today.
The hull kept having pin holes and bubbles popping up (pun intended). What are they multiplying when I turn the lights out?

with primer and post primer - they kept showing up in nw places.


I confess, I got to the point where I said enough. I will just live with the bumps and marks. Take the ribbing pond side.
Let us get a final coat of paint on.



Pretty excited paint went on well! Sub looked presentable. Should I leave it all black?
This opens up a bunch of points. How much do you weather or detail a sub? When in the subs life do you pick to recreate?

[salmon]

Will Oudmayer painted his as an early paint schedule.


This sub has many looks to it.



Love this next one with the salt buildup.


Later, I decided I liked this one. The Walrus was doing pirate interdiction and returned with the skull and crossed swords.

I will not duplicate it perfectly (note yellow scrape marks), but use my interpretation and do it to my liking.

Note also references can be tough even if you have photos. This next photo is the same sub on the same day. Note how dark the hull is.

I will try to adjust the full size to match the close up one.
So, I will trim the sub as it is (minor adjustments) and run it.

[salmon]

Even my son, Sam, got some stick time. I love this sub.


I am going to jump back a little for the towed array housing. Using the plans, /I was able to drill where I thought the "legs" of the array attached to the sub's hull. Soldered rod at the top and inserted it into the holes drilled out.


I slipped aluminum teardrop shaped tubing over the legs and carved the housing at top. Sprayed it black.


Using photos, I made a template to shape the brass and to check the two sides were even.


There is a little "V" brace in the middle of each arch.



There is a whole bunch I apparently did not document. Made a mold cast tow array housing with wire inside for strength. Here it is: