1/32 Moebius Flying Sub

[bigdave]

This is true.
But as I don't use pitch controllers. (I know) that's just me.
I don't think of that.
If I were to use the pitch controller I would go three channel and not use roll control.
Unless you trim your FS1 to have the CG close to center the roll is a moot point anyway.
It will not roll with the extra stability.
I could do knife edge maneuvers with mine trimmed like that but I found it too hard to control and more like real flying.
And I SUCK at real flying.
I mean REALLY SUCK. REALLY REALLY SUCK.
Did I mention I really suck. Lol BD.

[PaulC]

Kevin, at this point I'm seriously leaning to ganging the nozzles for pitch only. I'm picturing lazy pond running, not dogfighting. That would require a mixer for the two pumps to steer the boat. I know your TJ is set up to assist rudder control -- would it work well enough to run both pumps for steering?

Just to prove that I'm actually building, I started assembling the pilot seats. These always fascinated me as a kid. It would be fun to make a 1:1 scale seat if I had enough research material. As it is I'll content myself with the 1:32 type. Cohesive of choice is the Ambroid Pro-Weld. Now I have to dig out some paint!



Say, does anyone know what's up with the square piece that holds the back to the bottom? The instructions call it a "rocket pack" but I don't see it in my reference screen shots. There's no denying VTTBOTS had some crazy gear but a rocket pack? I'm thinking it was the easiest way to join the two pieces and Mobius just called it that.

[scott t]

Maybe they translated wrong and it should be rocker back?

[jefftytoo]

Paul,

Loved the VTTBOTS screen capture. Doesn't it just make you want to go for a ride on that thing?

JeffP

[KevinMC]

Kevin, at this point I'm seriously leaning to ganging the nozzles for pitch only. I'm picturing lazy pond running, not dogfighting. That would require a mixer for the two pumps to steer the boat. I know your TJ is set up to assist rudder control -- would it work well enough to run both pumps for steering?

Hi Paul,

That's good news, it makes things much easier. The one other thing to sort out is what config your ESCs/pumps are with respect to reversing or non-reversing: The Throttle Jockey is meant to handle a reversing throttle setup and I've had difficulties getting it to work in FWD-only type setups. What have you got for this?

[PaulC]

Kevin, my understanding is the pumps are forward only. I was going to try it that way. So, no luck with the TJ then?

[JWLaRue]

Just received my pumps from Goldmine Electronics. These suckers are much larger (physically) and heavier when viewed 'in person'.... If these things can't move the FS1 around quickly enough, it'll be a real surprise.



Hopefully they won't create a problem getting a good trim.

Also, if anyone with these pumps recognizes the waterproof connectors, I'd like to find out where to get (more of) them. They would work great for R/C subs in general.

-Jeff

[KevinMC]

Kevin, my understanding is the pumps are forward only. I was going to try it that way. So, no luck with the TJ then?

Nah, it's not a case of "no luck", just more fine print.

Rick T has found a way to make this all work by installing a diode in series with each motor so that it will only accept a FORWARD command, but this will leave you with your throttle stick only having any effect in the upper half of the throttle quadrant.

What radio are you driving from? Is it programmable to the point that you can remap how your throttle stick operates?

[bigdave]

Just received my pumps from Goldmine Electronics. These suckers are much larger (physically) and heavier when viewed 'in person'.... If these things can't move the FS1 around quickly enough, it'll be a real surprise.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1418[/ATTACH]

Hopefully they won't create a problem getting a good trim.

Also, if anyone with these pumps recognizes the waterproof connectors, I'd like to find out where to get (more of) them. They would work great for R/C subs in general.

-Jeff

I proved that they would fit in my Otter box instillation in place of my small cylinders and Graupner pumps.
But if I were starting from scratch I would go cylinder in the center and a pump on either side.
Like Rick Teskey did.
BTW The pump cable is way to long and thick. I was just going to cut it to length. BD

[JWLaRue]

Oh, definitely going to whack those cables.

Has anyone tried to disconnect the wire where it enters the pump? It looks like there is a screw-in bushing there....

I like the idea of using a central cylinder. Going to have to borrow that idea! Thanks, BD!

-Jeff

[crazy ivan]

Maybe something like this....

[JWLaRue]

CI,

Looks good! What's the OD of your center cylinder?

-Jeff

[crazy ivan]

Jeff,
2.75 inch OD with a flat filed in the top and bottom to reduce height. I needed as big a cylinder as I could get to accommodate an "old school" 3000 mah nimh battery. If you go with lipo, you can probably get by with something smaller.

[robert f.]

Well, it looks as if I have to get one of this re-issue. The new(er) way of mating the hull halves seems to be quite an improvement and then I can turn the earlier one into a static model.

Trouble is, this model is very difficult to find in Europe (or at least I didn't). Most Moebius models carried here are the other Sci-Fi stuff.

Any suggestions on a US model shop with prices that won't break the bank?

Robert

[Guest]

This one on ebay looks reasonable to me. If you find a place flogging them in the UK, you'll almost certainly find you will pay more for the model, so it helps balance up the cost of shipping.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moebius-Voyage-to-Bottom-Of-The-Sea-FLYING-SUB-model-kit-1-32-/361450204079?hash=item54281c6baf:g:Aw0AAOSwcBhWZg9z