1/72nd Revell Gato Wolfpack

[JWLaRue]

Would be even better if they released a Balao version.....

-Jeff

[salmon]

Absolutely!

[PaulC]

That would be cool. I'd love for Moebius to re-issue their Flying Sub. Those kits are crazy expensive now.

[sgtmac1]

By the way, what kind and size of props are you all using on your r/c 1/72nd GATO's? I would like to invest in a set.
Thank you
Dave

[PaulC]

Dave, I bought a set of G-Factor props. They are brass recasts of the kit props. There should be pics of them back in the thread. I don't believe G-Factor has their own website but you can get them on eBay. Just search 1/72 Gato props. You will have to bore out the hub for the prop shaft.

If you get the Caswell R/C fittings kit then two white metal props are included. These are fresh work-ups not recasts. They look good, however, one prop has a slightly larger outside blade circumference than the other so you need to account for this when installing the shafts. Or you can just file the blades to fit.

[salmon]

Here is a lineup of props

The plastic kit prop, G-Factor, David Merriman's, and Raboesch. I put the Raboesch on mine and wow there is a lot of power in those. if you do not put the prop guards on your sub, you may want to stick with brass. My skills are such that I seem to bend the white metal ones.

[jefftytoo]

Welcome back—and welcome home—Kisler. Good to see you here again! Of course, I agree with Paul: the work looks wonderful! Wish I could join you guys back in these Ghost Wolfpack environs, but a certain 19th century iron "sea monster" is taking up my rare hobby time these days, as you well know. And Tom Chalfant, good to see you posting too. I hope you're right about that hinted Gato re-release: we're all gonna be needing more spare parts!

JeffP

[boomerfunker]

Thank you my brothers.

Paul, the stanchions on my fwd deck are from Bluejacket Shipcrafters from their brass section. I *think* I doubled up the three hole version for girth then ground off the top hole. That Nautilus is looking fine Jeffty, keep pushing as I don't actually want to BE a ghost before I see her at sea. Hey Tom! Awesome that a reissue is in the works but a full wood deck in the Mare Island/Portsmouth pattern would do quite nicely this time though, but with a nod to Jeff above a Balao would be quite acceptable too.

[jefftytoo]

Speaking of "full wood decks," on Paul C.'s recent SCR "Smoke" column advice I just ordered the full-wood deck brass PE set from Oto, the Czech Republic guy. Can't wait to get a close-up look at it. Regardless, it contains SO many more little detail do-dads than I'd ever have by going with corrugated styrene pieces, which had been my plan until now...

JeffP

[boomerfunker]

New front end

Been working sporadically but I wanted to get to a waypoint before I posted again. That waypoint is the front section of the CT is now done.
Of course there has been troubles and pitfalls along the way. To wit, a while back I built up the front gun deck from strip and sheet. I had duplicated the Nautilus models part and subsequently found it was too long and a bit wide, plus my railing was too fragile having broken somehow through mere handling. Not got enough by far. Answer: New deck. Brass, and to size.



Turned out nice. I have no idea what I'm doing--never did this kind of thing before--but did it anyways. The secret is paste flux in the joints instead of liquid which dries out too fast and lots of heat sinks to keep the previous joints from loosening. I'll probably duplicate the effort on the deck rails later. Another issue was I had to solder before I could plank the deck so I built as much as I could slide into the center then filled in around the posts with individual pieces.



It is a little sloppy looking but I think with a coat of paint (and not staring at it with an Opti-visor on) it should look fine. I'm not sure about the ring mount for the 20 mil so I have a little research or part creation ahead for that bit.

One SERIOUS issue that needed correction was a pronounced warp in the resin sail. I understand resin parts can do this over time and knew that it could be fixed with a soak in some hot water and some pressure to move the part back into true. I clamped the hot piece to the workbench and let it cool into the new shape. It took a couple tries and some specific application with a heat gun but it lies flat now.



Finally, with all the parts from the previous post prepared I put everything together. I shot a bit of primer into the crannies first since I was unsure the airbrush would reach them later. Not bad. The rail spacing is more accurate than before and the horn has been strengthened. The caps look good and the side ready lockers are in place and pinned for that extra hold.



I'm gonna start sliding down the walls adding tidbits like nav lights and rivets as I go next.

[salmon]

Excellent post. The deck and railing look great and that small amount of primer makes the details pop. Very inspiring.

[PaulC]

Looks great, Tom!

[jefftytoo]

Very impressive work, Tom, as always! And I wouldn't worry about that perceived "sloppiness." Remember that those teak planks didn't always sit fully flush and pretty on the 1:1 boats—especially after some depth charges and long patrols. A little warping just adds realism! (But I know you knew that.)

Now I'm just waiting for that park bench.

JeffP

P.S. You're doing Ned proud, ol' boy.

[scott t]

Tom here is a picture of a nav light from USS Drum.

Scott T

[boomerfunker]

Aww...you guys are the best...

QUIZ TIME Lightning Round!

What are these two structures on Triggers fore deck here. They make no earthly sense to me. That's just a 20 up there, no access from bridge as you had to climb up there from the main deck, so why would you need a chute device, two of them, up there. Trying to figure out if I should model them or not they kind of clutter up the place. Thanks.