Revell VIIc shipping in holland

[Guest]

Very, very nice work you

Very, very nice work you have done so far, Fred!
Please keep posting pictures as you make progress.

And a stupid question:
What are those large large circular hatches for? I have the U-boats In Action but have only browsed the Vom Orginal zum Modell book, and so far have not seen a clear explanation of what these hatches are used for.
My first guess was that they are used when loading torpedoes but from what I understand the torpedo loading hatches are located underneath the deck and are set at a slightly more horizontal angle.

Could these hatches possibly be posed open when at sea?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Anders

[safrole]

I use a special acid

I use a special acid that is used to make electronic printed circuits,It removes the cooper from them.

Thomas

That acid is ferric chloride, sold in the US at Radio Shack as "PC Board Etchant Solution". If it's not weathered enough after using that, you can then put it in a solution of lye (sodium hydroxide) Red Devil drain opener. That discolors brass as well.

[sam reichart]

Very, very nice work you

Very, very nice work you have done so far, Fred!
Please keep posting pictures as you make progress.

And a stupid question:
What are those large large circular hatches for? I have the U-boats In Action but have only browsed the Vom Orginal zum Modell book, and so far have not seen a clear explanation of what these hatches are used for.
My first guess was that they are used when loading torpedoes but from what I understand the torpedo loading hatches are located underneath the deck and are set at a slightly more horizontal angle.

Could these hatches possibly be posed open when at sea?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Anders

The circular hatches are cannisters for ammunition...

[raalst]

I mentioned that the windabweiser

I mentioned that the windabweiser was the wrong shape
for U-203.

I fixed it with a bit of putty.
first I glued a piece of thin plastic to the tower, just
underneath the aft part of the windabweiser.
Using that as a platform I put on the putty.
drying, sanding, plastic peeled away and
voila

by the way, this thread will hit the 8000 views right about
now. I hope Safrole is satisfied with his decision to nudge
me into action

some rumours heard on the Internet:
- nautilus models is planning to release a later type of
tower for the kit, with extra wintergarten and snorkel.
- some japanese shop had turned metal pericopes and
gunbarrels on offer
- there are two shops offering crews : heckler & goros and
some chech company.



Edited By raalst on 1077310351

[sam reichart]

I have also gotten word

I have also gotten word of Nautilus releasing an aftermarket tower, with extended wintergarten and snorkel... not sure when, but if it's economically feasible for them to do....

[charlemagne]

I have a question regarding

I have a question regarding the diesel outlets of the VCII. What was behind them? I have opened the holes, but should they stay empty or was there some kind of pipe connected to the diesel engines?

FRed

[charlemagne]

I just finished the railings

I just finished the railings on the tower of the VCII. The upper part of the tower is not glued yet though.

Railings

[sam reichart]

Fred-
nice work on the railings...they

Fred-
nice work on the railings...they look much more scale done in the brass rod...

I'd check the internals drawing in vom original for the answer about the diesel exhaust ports...

[charlemagne]

Hi Sam,
Thanks for the nice

Hi Sam,
Thanks for the nice words... and thanks for taking a look for the diesel outles.
I am now working on the floodsholes of the deck... What was under this deck? Was there a sub deck or could one look directly into the hull?

[sam reichart]

Jeff and others could probably

Jeff and others could probably help more with this answer...but I believe it would be "both"...there's structure beneath the deck that supports it over the pressure hull, but there's places in the flood vents and gratings where the round shape of the pressure hull can be seen...one place that comes to mind is along the upper hull, where the long slot under the conning tower is located.

[JWLaRue]

...a good portion of the

...a good portion of the upper pressure hull could be "seen" through the deck slots (and casing slots). A big exception being the deck aft of the conning tower where the intake and exhaust piping was located. This ran from the air intake vents up in the conning tower down and back to (from memory) the engine room.

Of course it should be noted that while the pressure hull is technically visible, there isn't exactly a lot of light down there, so someone standing on the deck looking down into/through a deck slot isn't going to see very much! From a modeling point of view some simple sheet styrene could be used to create the effect of the hull.

In the Vom Original Zum Model book, plan #7 shows all of this plumbing (including that for the schnorkel).

-Jeff

[sam reichart]

In the Vom Original Zum

In the Vom Original Zum Model book, plan #7 shows all of this plumbing (including that for the schnorkel).

-Jeff

thanks Jeff...I knew it was in there somewheres....

[charlemagne]

Thanks for the valuable information.

Thanks for the valuable information. I was thinking of making some kind of hull from styrene and now I know I will.

I have made some progress with the floodholes on the deck. I have not sanded everything probably, but it will give you an impression how it gets.

Deck 1
Deck 2

Also a photo of the tower. Again some sanding needs to be done. Tower
If you look closely you can see the wooden panels. I have scratched them very finely with a Xacto knife to simulate wood. I am planning to do the same with the deck. If you weather the Boot this will give a more realistic effect in my opinion.

[charlemagne]

The deck]here it is

The deck]here it is[/url]

[raalst]

here's a picture of the

here's a picture of the brass railing.
This is quite a bit of work.
I cut off the original plastic railing, sanded the hull flat
and then drilled out the holes with a smaller diameter drill.
The brass rail is bent at the ends to stick into the holes.
all holes "inbetween" are filled with a small piece of brass
or plastic. I used a piece of scrap plastic plate with a hole
in it to get even distances from the hull.
Then the rail is CA'ed to these stumps.
I found that you can tidy up the joints between the various pieces with white woodglue. It fills the gaps nicely.

Bending the rails in the correct shape is an art. It took me a
few tries before I got it right.

The steps are made separate because I could not think up a way to create the shape of the railing with step included.
The railings end head on on the middle step and are "welded on" with woodglue.

Note the railing is still too low (i.e. in front of the valve holes)
moving the rail would have caused a lot of trouble, e.g. the
distances between the three steps would become irregular.



Edited By raalst on 1077746339