Scratch-built 1/96 Oscar II

[anonymous]

Gantu,

As usual. Very nice pictures!

Do

Gantu,

As usual. Very nice pictures!

Do you have any pictures of a Delta 4?

Steve

[anonymous]

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_biggrin.gif


Gantu

]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]


Gantu

[anonymous]

]http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_01.jpg
http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_02.jpg
http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_03.jpg
http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_04.jpg
http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_07.jpg
http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_08.jpg

Gantu http://w

]http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_01.jpg[/img]






Gantu

[wayne frey]

Of course, I love it!!!


Of course, I love it!!!
Do tell more. Scale, scratchbuild problems,equipment, etc
Do tell
Dang nice boat. Granit hatches open, don't they?

[anonymous]

Hi Wayne Frey

have to see

Hi Wayne Frey

have to see if i still have it on my harddisk. This is not my boat a guy in japan did it. I think i have also a mpeg from this model during patrol.

Give me some time to find please.

Gantu

[KevinMC]

Tupolev, Steve- I'm glad you

Tupolev, Steve- I'm glad you guys appreciate it!

Gantu- I'll second Wayne's comment. Details, man, details!

[yellowdog]

Great job, Kev!
Dan
ONT

Great job, Kev!
Dan
ONT Sub Club

[redboat219]

Gantu,
Do you have

Gantu,
Do you have the link to that Japanese RC sub website.

-Red

[anonymous]

]http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_13.gif

A long time ago i

]http://gantu.de/OscarII/OscarII_13.gif[/img]

A long time ago i found coincidentally this link while searching the net. I have try the side to find the side but I believe the side are closed now.But i will keep going for you guys. As far i know the scale is 1/100. Ihave also some smalln films about the OscarII i will post them when i find them.

Gantu

[wayne frey]

Gantu,
Right now I am

Gantu,
Right now I am collecting anything I can get my hands on about the Sierra, Delta IV, and Oscar.
Anything you find would be appreciated.
Big thank you for the Oscar model pictures.

[KevinMC]

Next installment- sanding down the

Next installment- sanding down the first prime coat...

Well, I started out again with fairly coarse paper (150 grit) on my two sanding blocks, still used with a light touch. At this point there is still enough "unevenness" to the glassed surface that the highs can be pretty high and the lows can be pretty low. (Notice how mottled the hull looks in the following photos.) Even now I'm still fine-tuning the shape of the bow, trying to get it "just right" so I've also added a bit more Icing to the top trying to perfect the sloped nose...




So what do you when you're sanding away and you inadvertantly "burn through" the glass and leave only bare foam? (Bear in mind the one down side to using the Icing as a filler is that, being polyester based, it will eat away at any foam it comes into contact with.) My procedure to correct this has been to get out my dremel and carefully remove anything that feels "spongy". Then re-seal the area by back filling all the exposed foam with 5-minute epoxy.







The real benefit of sealing with 5-minute epoxy is that it cures up so quickly that I can soon overfill with Icing (which also cooks off quickly) and within 20 minutes the entire repair is complete.

[KevinMC]

Here's the construction sequence for

Here's the construction sequence for the bay that houses the towed radio-buoy. Since it's just flat plates I built it up by glassing a sheet of 3/16 balsa and building up framework underneath. Next I glued this assembly to the top of the hull with CA. Shown here, it's ready to be faired in.




The bay should be blended in to the hull with what I'll describe as a convex fillet. I decided I'd try making the fillet with Icing using an adaptation of a technique I picked up from David Merriman's how-to videos. To put a consistant radius and angle on the sides of the bay, I made a tool from a piece of an old credit card and ran it along the edge of a straight edge. Again, I'll save myself many words with a few photos...

Here's the tool I made:



And how it's to be used:



The Icing was laid down in the corner of the bay and the hull and pulled along with the tool leaving a nice fillet...



I did the final filling of this area with regular spot putty:



And here's what it looks like when it's all finished and ready for prime coat number 2:

[novagator]

Look'n good!

Look'n good!

[wayne frey]

Inquiring minds want to know.


Inquiring minds want to know.
Are you using epoxy or polyester resin to finish out the kits.
Have you had a "few inquirys". I bet!! So, tell us, what are you thinking as far as cost to sell a hull kit, or is it too early?

What are you thinking for wtc for yours, and screws( not props!!! I got laughed at by the Russians for calling it a prop. It is a screw)

What does this generally measure out to? Wonder if one of those new Welsh PP wtcs would work?...(Positive pressure)

Nice work so far, Kevin. Real nice. And yes, so far the boy gets 100% for accuracy on his report card pending completion. He sure did his homework on detail on hull shape.

[KevinMC]

Dan- Just don't let my

Dan- Just don't let my scratch-build beat your U-boat to the pond by too much.

John- Thanks. I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'm glad you guys are enjoying.

Wayne- Let me feed those enquiring minds... I'm inclined to go polyester for the final hull, but if there's some pressing reason to go epoxy I'm open to hearing the reasons. I've worked with polyester fueslages on model aircraft for years, and although many people will tell you that epoxy is better I've not yet come into any hard reasons why. Opinions are welcome from all.

So far I've had a good deal of interest in this project, but only a couple have stepped up to the plate to say "I want one". Of course I'm a long way off being finished, have no idea yet what a final price will be, and so far as the sub community is concerend I'm still an "unknown quantity". But for anyone who is interested, drop me an email and I'll keep you apraised of the progress. Like Steve (U812) did with his U-boat, I'm looking to do a limited Beta-kit run when I'm done.

I'm going to be using a D&E WTC3.5mod2 for this hull. As much as I'd like to build my own WTC as well, I don't want to bite off more than I can chew for a first submarine. GRP I know, WTCs are all new for me.

Screws will be custom made, probably cast white metal a la David Merriman's process. (I've watched that section of his video many times and can't wait to try it out!) I'd originally considered using Raboesch screws, but the hubs aren't right. Oscar has a "domed dunce" where all the commercial products have sharply peaked ones. I've always believed that in most cases you're better off to make something from scratch than to buy something that's close and then spend an exhorbant amount of time re-engineering it.

Overall length is about 63". Mylo had asked a while back that I get a shot of the hull with a ruler to put it in perspective, I'll try to remember to get that tonight and post on the weekend.

As for 100% for accuracy, well there's a story to be told there. I wish I had 100% accurate drawings! As you know I began working with the drawing published by PBP, although I have made some minor alterations based on comparisons to the many photos available.

That said, I've reached a point that is all too familiar to many scale modelers (of all disciplines!) Over the course of my conversations about this project, a new set of drawing popped up in my inbox last weekend. (Thanks again Pablo!) Although they are nearly identical in outline to the PBP drawings I've been working to, close inspection and comparison to photos suggests that the cross sections presented in the new drawings are a siginficant improvement in accuracy over what I have now. (They agree very well with the photos of the recovered Kursk.) Tough decision that it is, I'll be taking a step back on my project to bring it in to line with these new drawings.

So, with that off my chest, here are the "new" drawings I'll be working to. The only change I'll make is to the stern planes- they look smaller in this drawing than what I've seen in drydock photos. (PBP wins on that one.) But see for yourself how close they are to what was presented at the beginning of this thread...