Scratch type 17 project begins

[jeffrey j]

hey Myles, I also have

hey Myles, I also have 69 camaro I got when i was in the navy over 22 years ago.. ok back to subs, also 2 running rc subs, and 4 or 5 hull kits wait for guys, and a scratch built R2D2 waiting for motors and an rc system... but the rc submarines are my favortie. Sam, sorry to hear about the lose of your 69,,, Jeff

[jeffrey j]

waiting for the "guts" to

waiting for the "guts" to be installed.... errrrr

[anonymous]

Ok,

Finally smooth enough. I’m really

Ok,

Finally smooth enough. I’m really happy with the sail too. So it's off to the hobby store to buy half round this styrene strips. This is how I'll achieve the weld panels.

I'm going to put everything on these tools from hatches, doors and torpedo doors. After much of it is detailed in the two halves I will then as per Merriman's very good suggestions glue and fill the two together. Then detail the deck.

I will make a cutting line at the water line and mold the boat in silicone top and bottom. Other wise I'd have to make a top deck tool and a separate mold for that. Don't want to go there.

Here's how she looks so far. I'll show pictures of the detailing process, as I know you all want to see that. This will take the longest time of any part of this tool making process. I hope you guys that want a kit are good with white glue if you want to have the rivets.

The idea of drilling and putting in pinheads just isn't going to happen not unless I'm overlooking and easy method?

As it is there is not that many rivets from what I can tell from old pictures this boat is mainly a weld job.

Steve

[sam reichart]

nice work Steve!

rivets- Just a

nice work Steve!

rivets- Just a thought. You need to talk to Jeff LaRue...if you can get these rub-on dry transfers that he recommends in a thick enough size, they may get picked up in the silicone mold. Otherwise, people that get your hull can use those same dry transfers for the rivet heads.

[horribleharry]

HEY STEVE!!! YOU MISSED A

HEY STEVE!!! YOU MISSED A SPOT!
Harry

[anonymous]

Sam,

It would be nice if

Sam,

It would be nice if you can find out more about that. Thought of putting on the darn things by hand makes me think of crazy people running down the street with a meat cleaver! LOL!

Harry,

You just wait until you start detailing that hull on the monster type 7 of yours. I'll be watching and laughing! HA!!!

Just marking thousands of lines in pencil and torpedo hatchs and ......AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Steve

Steve

[anonymous]

So. I spent most of

So. I spent most of the day drawing panel lines to mark where this half round styrene would be placed to make the welds. Also the torpedo doors. they were cut from very thin styrene as well.

I used thin CA to glue them on. Not easy as you have to be very careful not to use too much. In most cases I dipped a pin into the thin CA and then touched it to the styrene starting at the tip to secure it and then using another pin to hold in down I would then apply more CA. Tuff job.

The relief is a bit much but after I primer it and have a gander I can always sand it down a bit.

Steve

[anonymous]

Well I can see now

Well I can see now I will have to sand this down a bit. Some of you may like it this way and I could leave it as to make sure it gets captured well in the RTV mold. It would then be easy to sand down the GRP hull to the desired amount of relief that the model builder would care for.

Hmmm...what do you guys think?

steve

[anonymous]

A couple of more that

A couple of more that show it in one piece. Hmmm...I'm going to sand down all the welds after they are all placed on. I like it though.

None of the other type 17 model I've seen have the little details I'm putting in. I think it will add to a more scale looking model.

Steve

[sam reichart]

I agree with you Steve-

I agree with you Steve- I think that you should sand them down some.

I can't remember if it was Gene Berger with his big Gato, or someone else, but I remember someone saying that they used this craft related material to do their weld seams. You know those puffy designs that you see on T-Shirts and sweatshirts? They used the puff paint, applied to the hull, as seam material. I think it comes in a tube dispenser, with a tip that you cut to open the dispenser as much or as little as you want. It would sure giv eyou more variety to the weld thicknesses, as I'm sure there were with hand welded seams.

Maybe it was John Schagane??? Sorry, senior moment....

Let me see if Jeff still has the contact info for the dry transfer rivets. He used them on his 1/48 Type VII and they turned out great.

[mylo]

Gentlemen,

I am learning a

Gentlemen,

I am learning a ton. Watching and listening, like a good little student.

Steve, I'm sure you're keeping a log. If not, you should. I would be curious as to the hours spent doing each "phase".

Myles.

[anonymous]

Well if you look at

Well if you look at when I first posted until now that's the log Myles. Sort of.

Sam,

Your right I'm going to sand it down. It will be un even this way and look more like the real deal I hope.

I thought about using something like that Sam but was un sure of the results so I went for the old tried and trued method.

thanks guys,

Steve

[anonymous]

@Steve
i friend did like this]

[color=#000000]@Steve
i friend did like this]

[anonymous]

Thanks Gantu,

I did think of

Thanks Gantu,

I did think of that too but didn't know you could lock the tape down that way. I'm pretty much doing the same thing but your method sounds better to me.

Steve



Edited By U812 on 1124696090

[anonymous]

Got the first side done

Got the first side done enough for now. When I glue two sides together I'll do another go over with sanding and filling.

Here are the results of using the styrene strips, bondo spot putty and a lot of primer. The light on the subject is at an extreme angle to show the now well blended in welds in some of these pictures. Starting on side two tonight.

I'm curious as to how much faster side two will go. Then the deck and last the sail. I still have to make the array on the bow and the appendages which I will do last.

Steve