My Rescue Barge

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 18th =================================================

Sun is out thought it's 40F.
It is windy but not so much.
I can count the blades on the roof vent spinning.

Okay, in to the shop and turn on the heater.

I plan to paint but while it warms up, I will finish the deck holes by hand turning the drill bit to clean up the CA I put on the bare wood.
This takes a few minutes.

Look at the life rings to see if I need to do more.
Nope, they are going on the barge as is.

First 2 rings are going on the pusher bars.
The pusher bars are off the barge deck so I can lay the pusher bars on their sides and set the rings down flat.
Moved them around until I think they look right.

Get my Exacto knife to get silicone glue out of the tube and put the glue on the life rings in four spots.
Using a 1/4" block to get the height right, I carefully set the ring on the side of the pusher bar.
I was originally going to put them on the outside of the pusher bars but when I looked at it, there was not room.
I mean if the barge was working a man could not work on the outside of the pusher bar with the ring in the way.
So, I looked at them on the inside and that is where they are now.


Next to the deck house.
Again I was going to place the rings on the sides of the deck house railing.
And again it does not look right.
Tried a couple other places and the one that looks the most correct is on the back hand railing.
A little silicone glue and there they are.

After the railing ones cure, I think I will use some thread and tie them to the railing to make them more secure.
From the stern.


From the bow.


I might try coiling some thread to look like rope but so far I have not had any luck with my big fingers.

I have reached the point that I am waiting for the new main motor and rudder servo.
Other than making little detail parts to put on the deck, I think I am done.
A tool box at the front of the deck house might look good.
Couple 3 oil drums, maybe.

Well, until water trials and then I can paint the waterline.

I noticed there is black paint splatter on the deck house in places.
They did not wipe off.
To fix it, I would have to repaint the deck house completely.
I do not think that is going to happen.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

This afternoon I was back in the shop.
Thought I would connect the pusher bar linkage.
Done.
I think I will get stainless steel bolts to replace the Allen screws.
The socket in the Allen screws are not strong enough to put and torque on the screw.
I will pick some up tomorrow in town.

While counting the needed bolts, I checked the rudder system for a bigger rudder post pulley.
This is not going to happen unless I cut a opening in the engine cover to let the pulley stick out of the cover.

This is something I should have done a weeks ago.
With the motor pod out of the boat, I can set the rudder pulley on the deck and then put the deck house on.
Well, this is not good.
I could not set the deck hose on dropping it straight down.

Okay, off with the deck house.
Sit the rudder pulley on the deck back way from the rudder post hole.
Slide the deck house of from the rear until it drops down on the deck flang.
Lift the deck house straight up carefully.

Look down the through the pulley and see where it sits over the rudder post hole.

This is not good.
The pulley is pushed past the hole by 1/8".
This means when the deck house is in place, it binds against teh pulley.
Did not notice because I did not test the rudder servo and rudder post with the deck house on the barge.

Okay. I got my Dremel 1/2" sanding drum and sanded a notch in the deck house engine cover back wall.
I also took the pulley out to the tool shed and chucked it up in the drill press.
I cut a little of the pulley flanges.

In less than 10 minutes, the pulley did not move when I slide the deck house in to place.
I now have clearance on the rudder post pulley and engine cover.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 19th =================================================

Before going to town for bolts, I thought I would make up 3 tow lines.
Using braided nylon and trying to dye it dark brown.
Using tea bag.

Checked the thread in the servo to get a couple of bolts to hold the horns on.

Checked shipping on the new rudder servo and motor.
Not ordered from same company.
Servo will be here the first week of March. (March 6 or so)
The motor is on a much slower boat.
Expected delivery, April 21.

So after making the tow ropes, I thin I will clean off the work bench and get the Gato back on it.
Seems I left it with needing a shallow hole in the end cap for a safety cable pin.

Then it is a matter of cleaning all the dust of all the parts and reassembling the cylinder and get it the hull for water testing.
Might take a couple of days to sort out all the parts as the got mixed in with the barge build stuff.

I do have a working plan.
I take photos of every step I do so I should be able to match up the parts in the photos to reassemble.
-----------------------------
Back from town with a lot of stainless steel bolts to replace all the Allen screws.
4-40 by 1/4".

Sat down on my wooden milk crate and removed all the Allen screws and putting in bolts with Phillips head for screw driver.
Much better tightening.

There are 2 bolts that may need a flat spot put on the shaft to keep them from slipping.
Won't know until I can put the boat in the water and try to catch a sub.

Or course as much as I hope to not have to catch stranded submarines, this slipping may not ever become a problem.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 20th =================================================

More progress.
Found a small switch which can handle the load.
Soldered the switch in the power wire and then put on a new plug.
Drilled a hole in the electronics tray and mounted the switch.

I plugged in 2 test servos and the speed controller.
Yes, I checked the switch for which way is on/off.

Turned on the Tx and then the Rx.
Tested the 3 channels used.
All is good.

I mounted the Rx using a couple of drops of silicone.
I like silicone because I can remove it, cleaning it off and reinstall as needed.

I made a couple of labels to tape on the electronics tray.
OFF/ON switch and I labeled the Rx because I keep having to look up the channels.
1. Rudder
3. Throttle
8. Pusher bars tilt.

Using packing tape I put the labels on the tray.


Set the deck in place.
Now waiting for the motor and rudder servo.


I made up the 3 tow ropes.
I dyed them brown because white did not have the look.


View front the bow.
(should have taken the parts of the lid)

In this photo, the holes for the lower pusher bars are visible.
I can set the depth from 3" to 7" depending on the boat's hull to be retrieved.

.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

The 2 remaining parts needed will not arrive until April.
I think the barge will be going in to the transportation box to protect it and I can have my work bench back.

I need to cut 2 pieces of gray foam once the barge is in the box to hold the barge down for travel.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 22st =================================================

I had about 20 minutes I could work in the shop.
I put it to good use.

I needed to cut inlet in the flotation foam for the servo, servo linkage and the battery.
I had already cut out for the speed controller. and the steering servo.


I needed to find where to put the battery which would be sitting on the hull bottom to get the weight low in the hull.
I put the deck and deck house on the hull with the battery out.
I put the pod parts and old motor on the steer for the weight.
I put the battery 90 degrees from the photo.
I move the battery all the way forward to the bend for the rise at the bow. (1/4" back from the end of the foam.
I placed the battery so one edge was on the hull center line on the opposite side of the pusher bar servo.
The battery is on top of the deck at this point.

I put a brass 1/2" round tube under the hull, side to side, and moved it until I had the hull level.
I measured to see how close to center of the hull I was.
Moved the battery back about 3/8" and the hull leveled up on the brass tube.
Marked the foam with a pencil.
Removed the deck house, deck and foam.
I cut out a place in the foam for the battery and then a slot for the wires.
I cut the foam front to back using the side of the battery to make my cut mark.
The foam is now in two pieces making it easier to install and remove.
The distance from the battery power plug is now close enough to remove the extension wires and plugs.
Battery now plugs directly to the speed controller.

The battery is in the cut out tight enough that the battery will not slide around.
I have room in the foam to cut if I have to move the battery after water trimming.
Or I may add weight if the hull sits too high on the water.

The Rx antenna will lay on top of the foam under the deck.
There is nothing there in the way.

That's it for today.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 22nd =================================================

Just noticed the error in the above post. Feb 21st.

Now to Feb 22nd.
I woke up at 4am.
Could not sleep.
So, I finished up my taxes ready for delivery to the accountant.
Later morning on way to accountant to drop off my 3 page summary sheets and other personal id papers.
DONE.

Finally got in to the shop later this afternoon. 4:300pm.
Looking at the foam flotation blocks I realized I could glue them back together having cut all the inlets for the battery, servos and electronics tray.
Okay, I smeared clear silicone on the sides of the blocks that would mate up.
Set them on the work bench and made them level.
Couple of wooden blocks and clamps and the blocks are now glued together and will be one tomorrow.

I had to cut a couple of notches bigger in the hull deck framing.
The pusher bars linkage fit too tight and the hinge rids with wheel collars hit.
Actually the new longer stainless bolts where longer and hit the bottom of the cut out.
Touched up the paint.
I have plenty of room now for the bolts no matter which way they are turned.

Yesterday, I was testing the electronics.
Learned that when adjusting the servos, I need to reduce the movement to about 10% before starting.
If the deck had been screwed down when I turned on the system, the high torque servo would have broke things.
When the servo jumped to the Tx control setting it was set to full up.
It should have been set to center to stop what happened.
The servo jumped and the deck bent up about 1/4" at the bow.
The servo is a 20kg torque servo.
I can see this servo should have no problem when lifting stranded boats like a fork lift.

I opened the servo end program and set the servo so it would not go past full up and full down limits of the pusher bars deck stops.
What an eye opener this was..

Now thinking to the rudder servo that is coming.
It is a 25kg servo with 180 degree movement.
I will make sure the Tx controls is centered before turning on the system.
I would hate to see the rudder post pulled out of the wooden block (1.25" thick)
It might break the stern block from the hull.

Tomorrow, I plan to clean the barge up and find the few parts needed for the steering and put them all in the transportation box for safe keeping.
Until the parts show up in April.

I looked at the Gato cylinder and parts.
They all have about a foot of dust on them so cleaning will be necessary before I can go back to work on the Gato.
The Gato hull is sitting off one end of the work bench.
There is so much dust on the deck, I can not see the deck slats detail.
I will need to be careful so as to not break anything off the deck

I should have put the Gato in it's transportation box before starting the barge.
Now I know.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 23rd =================================================

In the shop.
I put the deck on the hull and screwed it down.
Had not done that yet.
Needed to have teh screws cut the threads in the wood frame.

Put the deck house on the deck.

Gathered up all the motor pod parts and set them on the transportation box lid under the hull.
Propeller shaft, propeller, 2 wheel collars with prongs to engage the propeller, 3 screws to hold the shroud on, the shroud and the pod front and back pieces.
The 2 pulleys for the steering.

That is all there is to finish the barge.

Moved the barge on the lid over to the box and set it down.
The barge is off the bench.
===============================
Turned on the air compressor and set it to 40 pounds.
I didn't want to blow parts of the deck of the Gato as I cleaned the dust off.
40 pounds was a good guess.
The Gato is now dust free.

Used the air to blow off half the work bench where the boat will sits.
Mostly sanding and grinding dust.

Found the Gato plastic stand.
The Gato is now on the work bench ready to continue.

Next will be cleaning the cylinder, two electronic trays and all the parts that go on the trays.
Going to go through it like I was getting it ready to go to the lake.
Clean everything and grease the parts that need clean grease.

Once I get the parts clean, I can lay then out on the bench to see if I have all the needed parts.
I had this boat complete assembled and working.
So all the parts should be there.
I took it apart because I needed to make the ballast tank larger by 3/4" to get waterline.
And where I stopped was installing the new safety cables to hold the end caps on the cylinder.
The original holes worked on one able but not the other.
I filled the hole so I could re-drill the location.
That is where the barge interrupted progress.

This afternoon, my plan is to sweep the floor and go through the pile looking for runaway screws, Allen screws, bolts and other parts that fell from the table.
Now these parts are not that important.
Missing parts where replaced so I could continue to build.
So anything found will be spares now.

So I am still working a little each day on something in the shop.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 24th =================================================

This is not good.
I resumed work on the Gato this morning.
After reaching a stopping point for today, I came in here to post the progress.
After typing up what was done, I realized, that my build thread is not here on Sub Committee.
It was over on Sub Pirates and is now gone.

The good news is, I have all my build info on my personal web site pages.
So it is not lost to anyone who wants to see it.
I do not plan to try to put it all here.
It is just too much to try to redone again.

But I can make it easy.
Here is the original build web page address.

http://www.cliffhangershideout.com/Gato/Gato-log-1.html

.

I will get back to the barge after the 2 parts show up.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 25th =================================================

I have been gone today but did stop at the post office on the way home.
Seems like my birthday.

I got a letter from my home owners insurance saying they made a calculation error and I will be getting a refund in 2 weeks.
I got a second letter from my auto insurance which said do to less driving because of the virus, I will be getting 10% refund. This is the third such refund in 8 months.
Even more.
There were 2 small plastic packages.
I opened the first one and there is the new motor that is suppose to be delivered in April.
Opened the second package and there is the rudder servo.
Took it out to the shop to test it.

This is where things when wrong.
This servo is a high torque 180 degree servo but the package has printed on the box 60 degree and 60 degree. 120 degree servo.
Tested it any way to make sure.
Sure enough, it is the wrong servo. (arriving 2 weeks early, something had to go wrong)

I sat down and typed up a message to the seller.
I thought I would make it easier on the seller by keeping the servo (because return shipping is more than the servo) and I would pay for another 180 degree servo.

Now I wait to see the response.

Anyway, I can work on mounting the new motor in the pod.
It is a little smaller that the one I had in there so there should be more clearance.

I will continue working on the Gato.

Building submarines is so much fun.<g>

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 26th =================================================

Before leaving for a few hours, I went out to the shop and unboxed the new motor.
This motor should be half the RPM or even less.
I needed to slow the motor down by a lot so I hope this is going to work.
This motor is the same diameter but it is 3/8" longer.
Good thing I left room in the pod. (the pod is long to make it look good)

The original motor mount bracket does not have the mounting holes in the same place.
So I removed the old one and trimmed the provided mount to fit in the pod.
I even removed more plastic from inside the pod for better motor clearance.

I need to cut the wires and lengthen them to get through the rudder post.
After than I can put the motor in the pod mounted to it's bracket.
Shim the motor for clearance and then epoxy the bracket in to the pod.
------------------------
I have been emailing the seller of the servo.
Interesting that they say they do not have a record of the sale.
Too bad, I sent copies of all orders and confirmations of orders and tracking info.
I have not heard back.

While sending the e-mail stuff, I did a search for the servo to see if I had the info correct from other sellers.
Then on my screen, a pop up.
It was from the seller I bought the replacement metal arm for high torque servo I have.
It was not something I wanted but I used their search and looked for the servo I had ordered else where.
Wow! There was a list of several high torque servos.
The one I wanted info on was there but there was another 20KG servo that only came in 180 degree or 270 degree.
The difference was the shipping.
The first one was free and this one was $2.+.
The big difference was the original was shipped from China.
The second one was also from china but in a warehouse in southern California.
I remember the arm came in 3 or 4 days. Not 2 months.
Okay, I will still try to deal with the original seller but I ordered from this local warehouse seller.
Maybe be the servo will be here next week.

Got to go for now but I think I will get the motor in the pod this afternoon.
Remember the motor got here 3 weeks early so I am still ahead of schedule. <G>

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

My time away was not nearly as long as I thought it would be.
-----------------
Motor issue to be solved.
The shaft is bigger in diameter.
So my connector will not work.
This is the original connector.


Assembled.


The brass tube slips over both the motor shaft and the propeller shaft and the set screw goes through holes in the tube in to the shafts.
The new motor shaft is the same size as the brass tube so it will not go into the tube.

I do not have a lathe or access to one and I do not think my poor man's drill press lathe will do the job of turning down the motor shaft.

But wait, I have an idea that I need to take out to the shop and see if I can make it work.
A standard wheel collar fits over the motor shaft.
I need to find a wheel collar that fits the propeller shaft.

Then See if I have a brass tube that both wheel collars will fit in to.
I can drill holes in the tube for the set screws.
Solder the wheel collars in the tube and install the set screws through the holes.

If I have a brass tube that is slightly smaller, I can run a tapered rod through it and enlarge the tube enough to press the wheel collars in.
The wheel collars and tube will be pre tinned with solder and the parts will needed to be heated before pressing together.

I have a plan, now to see if I can make it happen.
This all depends on if the large tubing will fit in the space in the tail come.
I do think I have room to make the recess in the tail cone large if needed.
Find my camera and out to the shop.

This needed to be photographed just in case it works everyone can see it happen.
--------------------
Looking at the assembled photo, I think I can use the parts.
Cut the inside brass tube in between the 2 collars.
Use the propeller side because it actually is the stand off bearing to the tail cone.
I know the motor side collar fits over the new motor shaft with the brass tube inside removed.
Just need the outside tube.

A more improved plan.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I do not have the correct brass tubing to go over the wheel collars. (I will get some next time I am in the big city)

I have drilled and aligned them up using stainless rod and brass tube shim.
I soldered the 2 wheel collars together.

Here they are with the brass shaft shim for the propeller shaft in place. (it is only in the propeller shaft wheel collar.
It extends past the wheel collar to be used as a bearing against the tail cone bearing.


Assembled.


I removed the propeller so the connector an propeller shaft would fit through the motor bracket.
I cut the motor bracket to fit inside the pod housing.
Checked fit a couple of times.
Soldered on wire extensions that will come up through the rudder post.

Mixed some epoxy and put it where the motor bracket contacts the housing.
The motor is installed on the bracket so I can hold everything in place.
I slide the tail cone on and pushed it in to the pod housing.
Through the front, I push 3 plastic shims to hold the motor centered in the housing not touching the housing.
This is an out runner motor so the outside spins and needs to not touch anything.

I cleaned the epoxy off a couple of the motor mount bolts and place the pod in the small vise to hold the pod where the epoxy will run towards the bracket and not out on to the table.
Should be ready to put the tail cone and front of the pod on permanently tomorrow.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 27th ================================================

To start I looked over the epoxy on the motor bracket.
Removed the 4 screws and worked the motor and it's long wires out of the pod.

Did a little clean up with the exacto knife.
Mixed a little more epoxy.
With a small screw drive blade, I applied epoxy to the inside of the motor bracket and smeared it around to make sure the motor housing did not touch.
Set this in a foam block to hold it upright so the epoxy stays put.

With the motor out, I can work on the motor to propeller shaft connector.

I thought about drilling two holes to insert piano wire and solder for a more positive joint between the 2 wheel collars.
I did not have a small enough drill bit.

So, I ground a notch on 2 sides and inlaid 1/16" flatten round brass rod.
Soldered them in place.
Looks good.

Took them to the tool shed and turned the piece in the drill press to make it round again.
Just cut the tops off the round rod sticking off the end.

Next I needed to drill the brass tube out off the wheel collars I used to keep them straight.
Yep, this is where it all went bad.
The drill bit grabbed about half way through and the wheel collars cracked length wise.
Instant scrap metal.

Okay, now to build another connector.

I found the next size up wheel collars.
Thought about jointing the smaller one to the larger one.
Then I found a second large one.

Check fit on motor shaft.
Wheel collar is too big.
But if I put a brass tube shim in the wheel collar that fits the motor shaft and fits the wheel collar, I have something to work with.

First I make a brass tube piece long enough to hold 2 wheel collars.
Drill 2 holes 180 degrees apart for the set screws to go through to the motor shaft and propeller shaft.

Now I need a smaller brass tube to slide in to the larger brass tube and fit over the propeller shaft.
Did I say the motor shaft is bigger than the propeller shaft.

Any way, using the 2 pieces of brass tubing makes the shaft reduction fit perfectly.
Drill a hole in the small tube to line up with one end of the larger tube.
Ground and files the tube ends to leave 1/32" sticking out as a bushing against the tail cone bushing.

Now, I have a connector that requires only the set screws to be tightened. (no soldering)

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

February 28th ================================================

Today's progress report.

Working on the motor pod.
Time to check and clean the epoxy on the inside of the pod to make sure it does not interfere with the motor.
I must be getting better at spreading the epoxy with my small screw driver blade.
Only a small spot to file down and that is only a precaution as I think it is not in the way.

I took some 200 grit wet/dry sand paper and wrapped my finger and sanded the inside of the pod to cut the roughness down.
I had Dremel sanding drummed the inside again to get a little more clearance.

Put the motor in the pod.
Well that was not expected.
I did not consider the new larger wheel collars would touch the new motor bracket.
Well, not actually but the set screws won't go through the opening in the bracket.

Okay, got my big round file out and spent some time filing out the hole in the bracket.
The I took a small square edge file and filed a notch in the bracket for the set screws to go through.
This was after I measured to make sure once the wheel collars where through the bracket the set screw was past the bracket.
I have about 1/16" clearance.

Put the motor in the pod and put the 4 screws in that hold the motor.

Slipped tail cone on to check clearance now that I know the wheel collars touched the motor bracket.
Yep as I suspected, I need to drill the recess in the tail cone bigger in diameter.
Out to the tool shed and put the tail cone in the small vise and on to the drill press.
I clamped the vise down so it would not climb on the bit as the bit cut in.
I now have a larger diameter recess hole.
Test fit says it is ready to go.

Back to the shop and clean all the dust and cutting off.
Silicone grease the motor shaft and inside the tail cone where the cup seal is.
Test fit.
I remember I had to turn the tail cone to find the sweet spot.
The spot where the shaft turned the easiest.
The tail cone to pod surface seems to not be square so adjusting is necessary to get a straight through shaft without binding.

Found the spot and marked the tail cone and pod body.
The original marks are about 1/8" off.
No problem.

I put s light coating of silicone glue on the tail cone joint edge.
Pushed the tail cone against the pod body, turned it back and forth to get a good silicone spread.
Put the front propeller wheel collar stop on the shaft to hold the tail cone tight in place while the silicone cures.

The nose goes on the same way but no need to align any thing.
Just put the silicone on, push the part in to the pod bode.
Twist a little to spread the silicone and it's done.

All the parts without the shroud.


All the parts assembled without the shroud.


Assembled with the shroud in place but not screwed on.
That will happen after I loosen the propeller wheel collars and get a bit of clearance between the tail cone and the wheel collar.