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1/72 Revell Gato Balao conversion-first time cylinder (yeah, I'm at a loss)
When you put your cylinder in, the bow may make your tube raise up.
If your tube does not rise in the bow, then ignore cutting it.
A .5 inch tube? A little over a .25”
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
When you put your cylinder in, the bow may make your tube raise up.
If your tube does not rise in the bow, then ignore cutting it.
A .5 inch tube? A little over a .25”
lol, more like 5/16 with a little packing. I sent you a PM. The fittings kit's parts for the bow retractor setup are meant for a 5mm tube right?
Sorry about not updating but I've been busy which is weird for me. I've ordered and received a receiver from Matt, 3mm tubing for the bow plane crank assembly, 4mm rod for the bow plane retractor, and 16 5/16"x12" tubes for the prop-shafts (bit of a mistake) so if anyone needs a 5/16"x12" tube let me know because I now have 12 extra that I can't find a use for. Receiver works good but works better with the F-14 so I've ordered some 2 and 3 position switches for it and a spare battery. Should I solder in a fuse and if so, what amp and where can I get it and the assembly for it? I'm still using NiCad so I'm not using a LiPo guard.
I do not recall using 5mm.....I will have to check tomorrow for you.
I measured the fittings for the bow plane retractor and they are 5mm. I might just solder on two 3mm or 4mm sections to the end of the 5mm section rod to make a T for the bucket on the retractor and call it good since it shouldn't matter if the rod fits so long as the T parts make contact-or I might drill out a spare bucket joint I have.
I've started on the aft section and it's coming along really well. I've removed the stock hull pin that blocks the aft dive plane control rod and opened up the surrounding area for it and I'm about to start on the rudder area, starting with the removal of the stock mounting points for the stock rudder. The fittings kit's rudder operating shaft bell-crank is designed for a 3mm control rod AND a 3mm rod coming out of the rudder itself. Is 3mm round stock strong enough for the rudder?
I owe you an apology, I forgot to look up the measurements. What is throwing me is you are using metric and I am using imperial measurement. So, you mention 3mm and I use 1/8” (which is close at 3.175mm). Yes,to answer your question, 3mm is strong enough. Your 5mm is probably my 3/16”. Please forgive me for not getting back to you. I am sorry.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
I owe you an apology, I forgot to look up the measurements. What is throwing me is you are using metric and I am using imperial measurement. So, you mention 3mm and I use 1/8” (which is close at 3.175mm). Yes,to answer your question, 3mm is strong enough. Your 5mm is probably my 3/16”. Please forgive me for not getting back to you. I am sorry.
Oh you're good. I got my brass order in (finally) and it looks like it all should fit and work. I'm currently modifying the aft section which is interesting to say the least.
Alright, I've started the aft and bow sections now. So far so good, but I need some advice on the bow. So, I have the fittings kit for this boat and it comes with a full interior for the bow torpedos. These parts aren't light and judging by the needs of the forward bow plane retraction setup, I think I need to decide if I'm adding torpedos later now since I'll need to cut the doors out of the hull pieces and install the fittings. So, do these parts add enough weight to change the freeboard, and once the boat is together, how hard is a torpedo retrofit?
The torpedos are below the waterline. So more of a ballast me thinks. Here is the issue with torpedos. You balance your sub for regular running. What happens when you add torpedos and fire them? If balanced for a full compliment of torpedos, every one you launch changes your trim. Gas resovoir gets depleted and lightens your boat. If you go to many runs, how often do you see torpedos being used? I haven’t. Does that mean you shouldn’t? No, not saying that, it is just the thing you need to be aware about it. When I built my sub, David told me I could always add them later. Then in his own way, he told me to just build the sub.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
The torpedos are below the waterline. So more of a ballast me thinks. Here is the issue with torpedos. You balance your sub for regular running. What happens when you add torpedos and fire them? If balanced for a full compliment of torpedos, every one you launch changes your trim. Gas resovoir gets depleted and lightens your boat. If you go to many runs, how often do you see torpedos being used? I haven’t. Does that mean you shouldn’t? No, not saying that, it is just the thing you need to be aware about it. When I built my sub, David told me I could always add them later. Then in his own way, he told me to just build the sub.
Yeah, Matt sort of hinted at that too. If this was a Revell Type VII or IX it wouldn't be a problem since the torpedo doors are separate parts and not cast into the hull. I'd rather figure out if I can/should plan ahead now and get her ready (even if I decide not too add them) then have to try and add the fittings and cut the doors out of a completed boat. I imagine that 2 tubes would be better to work with anyway right? Less cutting and fewer torpedos to hunt down.
I used an awl to stretch the opening of the hose then quickly put it over the brass tubing before it returns to the original size. David Merriman will warm up the awl and that will help make the hose a bit more pliable.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
I push the tubing over a small center punch or I use a small pair of needle nose pliers to stretch the tubing by opening the pliers several times and turning the tube between each opening to move the stretch around the tube.
Both work.
You have to push the tubing on the brass tube quickly as the tubing returns to it's original size very quickly.
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