1/72 Revell Gato Balao conversion-first time cylinder (yeah, I'm at a loss)

[southern or]

So, I have a sub-driver (finally) for the boat but I'm at a complete loss on how to set it up. I think I need tubing, but I don't know what size or kind, or where to get it, same goes for what I think is a 5mm bucket joint.


This would be the snorkel, but I don't have any tubing for it and I don't know how to set it up in the tower.


I thing I might be missing something else, but I don't know what it is.

Something that goes to something else.


connected ports that I assume go somewhere?


Well, this is what I have and the sub driver forums seem to be down, so any help (or instructions) would be appreciated! Thanks

[chips]

You should have received a couple of lengths of Clippard tubing and a length of zip wire. The zip wire runs from the front space to the rear space inside the brass tube. The zip wire connects the battery in the front to the ESC in the rear. Two lengths of Clippard tubing run from the ports on the rear of the cylinder to the fitting on the top of the cylinder. One length of Clippard tubing runs from the single tube on top of the cylinder to the bottom of the float valve.


Two lengths of Clippard tube run from the rear of the cylinder to the top fitting. One length forward connects to the float valve.



The fitting with the o-ring attaches to the bottom of the float valve assembly.

[southern or]

I didn't get any of that, the fitting, the Clippard tube, or the zip wire.

You should have received a couple of lengths of Clippard tubing and a length of zip wire. The zip wire runs from the front space to the rear space inside the brass tube. The zip wire connects the battery in the front to the ESC in the rear. Two lengths of Clippard tubing run from the ports on the rear of the cylinder to the fitting on the top of the cylinder. One length of Clippard tubing runs from the single tube on top of the cylinder to the bottom of the float valve.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]4281[/ATTACH]
Two lengths of Clippard tube run from the rear of the cylinder to the top fitting. One length forward connects to the float valve.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]4282[/ATTACH]
The fitting with the o-ring attaches to the bottom of the float valve assembly.

[chips]

The pictures I posted are of USS MARLIN with a 3" Sub-driver, I can't find the sheet that came with. I'm working on a Revell Type VII with a 2" Sub-driver. The sheet for the 2" Sub-driver has the following list of bagged items, that were packed inside the cylinder.

• three, magnetic coupler sets
• one, motor bulkhead SAS manifold
• one, bow plane dog-bone assembly
• three, flexible hoses
• one, pushrod seal
• one, snorkel head valve assembly
• one, power cable strain relief block
• one, zip cord type power cable
• various mechanical fastener

The three flexible hoses are the Clippard hoses. They are the same size as the ones connected between the air pump and the inside of the motor bulkhead.

[ccontrol]

https://www.rc-submarine.com/subdriver-assembly-gallery

Bob Martin at Nautilus Drydocks is your friend. He has a lot of resources on his website to help with setup.
Great guy to deal with.

[southern or]

Alright, I emailed Bob, and I am missing a bit of stuff that he'll be sending off shortly. I'm thinking I might start filling in the casing holes here pretty quick while I wait. I've got an Iron Bottom Sound replacement tower and gun and stencils for the conversion to a Balao.

I'm thinking that I can use part of the PE set to open the tower for the snorkel, but I'm still hollowing it out.


Thanks for the help so far!
JP

[ccontrol]

The IBS towers are solid resin and may be pretty heavy. I think he will do a hollowed out version for RC applications. This was based on conversations I had regarding post-war Guppy conversion sails.

[southern or]

The IBS towers are solid resin and may be pretty heavy. I think he will do a hollowed out version for RC applications. This was based on conversations I had regarding post-war Guppy conversion sails.

It's a solid one too, but I've been slowly hollowing it out with a router. I'm to the point now where I need to decide where I want to punch through and how I want to do it. It's pretty light once you get the bulk of the material out which is nice.

[apa-228]

These might sooth your pain!

https://www.rc-submarine.com/product-page/revell-gato-conversion-walkthrough

[bob the builder]

Lack of the peripheral parts is on me in this case. I'd taken them out to photograph for another customer about a month ago and forgot to put them back in the cylinder before I shipped them out to Joshua.

Dave does an exceptional job in ensuring that all of his products are tested and complete prior to shipping.

I've got a batch of replacement parts off to Joshua today. Should be there soon!

[southern or]

I might have to look into that!

These might sooth your pain!
https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...on-walkthrough

Thanks Bob! I can't wait for them!

Lack of the peripheral parts is on me in this case. I'd taken them out to photograph for another customer about a month ago and forgot to put them back in the cylinder before I shipped them out to Joshua.

Dave does an exceptional job in ensuring that all of his products are tested and complete prior to shipping.

I've got a batch of replacement parts off to Joshua today. Should be there soon!

In project related news, the IBS tower is coming along suspiciously well so far. it's about 90% hollow and part of the deck is now open.



It is really light now too.

[salmon]

If I may offer a tip.....Remove as much material as you can above the waterline. Please do not hold me to this....I am using my gray(er) matter.... I recall mine having a 26.58 cubic inch ballast (after removing for gas system and brass pipe traversing the tank) and every ounce you shave off the top is one less cubic inch you will use to loft it out of the water. You will need that extra lift. The Gato (Balao) has a a tall tower and will have a tendency to tilt over. So you will be adding foam and lead in there.

[southern or]

If I may offer a tip.....Remove as much material as you can above the waterline. Please do not hold me to this....I am using my gray(er) matter.... I recall mine having a 26.58 cubic inch ballast (after removing for gas system and brass pipe traversing the tank) and every ounce you shave off the top is one less cubic inch you will use to loft it out of the water. You will need that extra lift. The Gato (Balao) has a a tall tower and will have a tendency to tilt over. So you will be adding foam and lead in there.

I'm thinking when the tower is complete it will be heavier then the stock plastic one, but not by a lot. It's already lightened up a lot with most of the material removed but yeah, it'll need weight on the 'keel' and foam. What I am wondering about is the effect of removing the stock kit plastic (floating) decks and replacing them with PE ones. I'm wondering if that'd be too much brass and resin above the waterline...

[salmon]

I had the same concerns and opted not to put brass deck on, but another gentleman informed me that it ended up weighing the same or less. I do not remember what configuration he used to support the deck or how much he left on as a whole, but then I do not recall if I saw him ever sail his sub. So, ultimately it is up to you. This boat is your boat to choose as you want to. I will be watching because when I get around to building my second Gato (still a ways away) it will be a Balao too. So, I am learning from you!

[ccontrol]

I had the same concerns and opted not to put brass deck on, but another gentleman informed me that it ended up weighing the same or less. I do not remember what configuration he used to support the deck or how much he left on as a whole, but then I do not recall if I saw him ever sail his sub. So, ultimately it is up to you. This boat is your boat to choose as you want to. I will be watching because when I get around to building my second Gato (still a ways away) it will be a Balao too. So, I am learning from you!

No Pressure!