Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

Looking at your bottom photo, I see where you can pick up a little more throw for you planes.
It would require a redo.

You could try bending your loop moving the lower part up to clear the rudder collar.
This would allow the yoke to move to the rudder shaft instead of stopping at the connection collar.
If bending does not work, unsoldier one side of the yoke and slip it up just enough to make the loop smaller to clear the rudder shaft.

The smaller the space, the more work it is to get it to function the way you want.
As for not having the full 30 degrees of up and down throw,
your decision to have that on the rear planes if a good choice.
I rarely use my rear planes.
I have the rear planes setup with the automatic leveler.
I could actually unplug the rear planes from the receiver and all would still be good.

Full rudder is something that I think is needed.
Got to be able to turn the boat in small ponds or pools.

How things look inside is not as important as how it works.
Once you close up the hull to run, no one can see the insides stuff.

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

OHHH RALPH , way didn't say these words earlier ? .
Know I understand exctly what you mean ,
I don't understand way I couldn't see these solution ?! .

But is Perfect even know and I THANK YOU for that . You guest "save my Life" .
I Realize know the true meaning of those words ]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_lol.gif[/img]

There is NO time know but soon after EASTER I'll start making those changings .

MARIUS

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

You are welcome.
I know some of the answers because I have made the mistakes and learned from them. (Most of the time)

The advantage of these forums is you can post photos of your work and state your issues and others who have been there can suggest alternatives.
When I build my first 2 to boats, early 1990s, there wasn't all this help available.
All my building was trial and error. I have a box full of errors to look through when I need parts.

Always keep in mind, there are several ways to make some thing work.
There is no one right way.
So, read over the suggestions made and find one that works for you or inspires you to your solution.
Be sure to share it so the rest of us can have it as a reference when needed.

[JWLaRue]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

You could (also) try filing the brass flat stock where it hits the inner surface of the tail cone to gain some additional 'throw'.

One other point, while the self leveler will almost certainly be more than usable with the deflection you currently have, you will likely appreciate have more command authority when you wish to actually drive the boat up or down.

You can determine if you need it once you have it in the water. After all, we do tend to 'tweak' these beasties after they're first 'done'....

-Jeff

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

You could (also) try filing the brass flat stock where it hits the inner surface of the tail cone to gain some additional 'throw'.

One other point, while the self leveler will almost certainly be more than usable with the deflection you currently have, you will likely appreciate have more command authority when you wish to actually drive the boat up or down.

You can determine if you need it once you have it in the water. After all, we do tend to 'tweak' these beasties after they're first 'done'....

-Jeff

HI JEFF ,

Of course , to file the brass coupling in that area is a Perfect idea .

MARIUS

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

HI RALPH ,

I wheel follow the advices because that's way I was asking , to get different solutions from various people .
I wheel post always the feed back about how came up .
I think it has to be the natural position of every one , on any forum .

You could (also) try filing the brass flat stock where it hits the inner surface of the tail cone to gain some additional 'throw'.

One other point, while the self leveler will almost certainly be more than usable with the deflection you currently have, you will likely appreciate have more command authority when you wish to actually drive the boat up or down.

You can determine if you need it once you have it in the water. After all, we do tend to 'tweak' these beasties after they're first 'done'....

-Jeff

JEFF ,

Is a good idea too to file a litle the brass coupling in that area .
Thanks for the tip .

MARIUS

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

HI ,

Only small update :

at the beginning was "the Light"















but fast the Darkness was coming ]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_twisted.gif[/img]




And I had to make another set ]http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_lol.gif[/img]


MARIUS

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

To day I had some time to add these small rings to Ventilation Holes on the upper hull :















MARIUS

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

HI there ,

To day I did some small adjustments to the flooding holes :
- I enlarge hole in the hull approximately 0,1mm bigger than the rivet ring . Actually I made just a dipper chamfer for the rivet rings ;
- I enlarge also the hole in the rivet ring nd than I cut it the ring ,
The result is , what You see in the pictures below :





looks more OK than the rivet next ?.
The last picture shown the rivet ring with flat surface up side down but I don't like it . I'm gonna use the rivet ring with curved surface up .

MARIUS

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

The flood vents on the real boats are flat with the deck.
Even the bolts are flush so there is no tripping over them though you do your best not to step on them.
Everyone's life depends on those things closing without leaking.

I have used paint to represent the vent valves.
I have used brass eyelet grommets. (like on shoes for laces)
I have used brass .22 caliber cases drilled out and set in to the deck.

I find scribing a line where the vent would be and a piece of wood sanded round and to a quick point works well to put paint on the hull using the hole as a guide and the wood to hole the paint.
Paint on wood, put in hole.
Turn slowly to draw paint from wood to hull until it reached the scribe line.
Remove wood stick.

Small brass washers thinned and made the correct diameter, inset in the deck should work as well.

I think your flush rivet will work fine.
A little very fine sand paper to get a smooth finish and it will all be good.

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

The flood vents on the real boats are flat with the deck.
Even the bolts are flush so there is no tripping over them though you do your best not to step on them.
Everyone's life depends on those things closing without leaking.

I have used paint to represent the vent valves.
I have used brass eyelet grommets. (like on shoes for laces)
I have used brass .22 caliber cases drilled out and set in to the deck.

I find scribing a line where the vent would be and a piece of wood sanded round and to a quick point works well to put paint on the hull using the hole as a guide and the wood to hole the paint.
Paint on wood, put in hole.
Turn slowly to draw paint from wood to hull until it reached the scribe line.
Remove wood stick.

Small brass washers thinned and made the correct diameter, inset in the deck should work as well.

I think your flush rivet will work fine.
A little very fine sand paper to get a smooth finish and it will all be good.

HI RALPH ,

What You sad is true .
But being my first attempt to make a RC submarine , I don't have the intention to spend "my hole life" on these model .
Therefore If I consider such a small deviation from the original bring a Little good looking image , I think is not going to be such a problem .
I think the most important thing is to solve real problems ( see rudders and dive planes linkage ; electronics , etc ) than to strictly respect a design .
Is guest a humble opinion of a newbie .

MARIUS

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

Not meant to criticize your build.
Just offering options that have been used in the past.

Building a working submarine brings so many issues that need to be worked out.
And each issue will have several methods of solving the issue.
If the chosen solution works then it's the right solution for the current issue.

Watching your build, you are doing fine.
Besides, you may solve a problem differently than others and your way may be easier & better than other methods.

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

Not meant to criticize your build.
Just offering options that have been used in the past.

Building a working submarine brings so many issues that need to be worked out.
And each issue will have several methods of solving the issue.
If the chosen solution works then it's the right solution for the current issue.

Watching your build, you are doing fine.
Besides, you may solve a problem differently than others and your way may be easier & better than other methods.

HI RALPH ,

I never considered an Advice as a critique ,
The more opinions , the more possibility to succeed ,
So PLEASE if you think that , things can be made differently than I do , TELL ME .
I consider my self an "open mind" person and I don't have the Prejudice versus others opinion , just because are not mine .

MARIUS

[profesorul]

Re: Los ANGELES class Submarine Built Thread

OK That's it !.
I'm don with the flooding holes .
I don't want to hear NO more about Flooding Holes!!! .

these is the FINAL shape :
























MARIUS

[profesorul]

HELLO There ,

I progressed a little work on the submarine. ...
Not having a laser level or other modern means of marking curved surfaces , I have found a way to draw a straight line inside the lower hull .
I did like the following:
On the exterior of the lower hull I had the axis allready trased – axis used to draw the flooding holes ...... I made a few very small holes along this axis , I’ve passed a more resistant rope inside the submarine , I caught as stretched out as I could at the ends , and on the other holes I made a connection to the outside as seen in pictures .
In the end I’ve put a few drops of glue on each link


















then I moved to the next stage of the work consisted of making a bronze bushings have inside a 6mm hole for propeller shaft and a small flange at one end.
Flange and also will be a stop on it will slip when the propeller rotates.
Bush I did - a smaller more remain outside as much as in material thickness will give aft cone when the hole for attachment.
I found a shaft 6mm long enough, worked extremely fine (it was to a printer) at one end which I did a 5mm thread for the adoptive propeller and screwing nut
































And the last step :
- not having such thick material for WTC supports - and two component resin is very expensive here , I chose to do each support from light pvc , four layers of 2 mm glued , pressed and procesed on lathe - as seen in pictures .... a job that is extremely messy ,






















MARIUS