Moebius FS-1 Build

[crazy ivan]

Would that "trick" be shooting

Would that "trick" be shooting with the model close to the camera, with a small aperture, to give a large depth of field to get both model and background in focus?

You have the first part right, but the camera has only a fixed lens that I can't adjust. It just happens to have a large depth of field.

I think there is suppose to be a 3.5 foot wide FS-1 model coming out in late 2009. Maybe Caswell will be carrying it..

AAGAHHHHHH!!!! I WILL NOT BUY ANOTHER FS-1, I WILL NOT BUY ANOTHER FS-1, I WILL NOT ..............






yeah I know, you're just jivin' me.

[crazy ivan]

Hey BD, any thoughts on

Hey BD, any thoughts on how to keep that top on without putting ugly screws through the bottom? More magnets maybe?

[bigdave]

Maybe magnets. I am not

Maybe magnets. I am not sure on that yet.
Well placed screws on the bottom would not bother me.
I know you are a stickler for concealed fasteners and seams.
Sometimes the direct approach if hidden from view 90% of the time is the best approach.
But I have no doubt that the gears are meshing in that brain of yours for a 100% hidden method. BD.

[JWLaRue]

Is the top hull like

Is the top hull like the bottom hull....a single piece?

If yes, then I'd think that a couple of small, horizontal sliding latches (pin in hole type) would work and could be hidden inside the hull. I used that technique with my 1/72nd scale Skipjack.

-Jeff

[bigdave]

Yes, the top and bottom

Yes, the top and bottom are two single pieces.
Like clam shells. They do have some nice indexing pins already molded into the parts that I would hate to loose. So the top would have to come stright down to mate with the bottom. BD.

[bigdave]

Here are some photos of

Here are some photos of the parts. BD

[JWLaRue]

They do have some nice

They do have some nice indexing pins already molded into the parts that I would hate to loose.

Hmmm.....in that case, I'd next consider replacing the top hatch handwheel with one that works with a threaded stud. Screwing in the handwheel could then be used to hold the top in place.

-Jeff

[crazy ivan]

I'm first again. HA!!!

http://www.postimage.org/aV2BTfeA.jpg

I'm first again. HA!!!

[bigdave]

Good idea Jeff. Or maybe

Good idea Jeff. Or maybe magnets inside of the indexing pins.
CI has come up with a great way to keep the two half’s together like I knew he would.
He used Scotch Tape.
As he told me, "Hey, its invisible on the job"
I could not argue with his logic. BD.

[anonymous]

Hockey tape is better!

Steve

Hockey tape is better!

Steve

[bigdave]

You got that right Steve.

You got that right Steve.
If you are actually going to tape something up for water use the hatch sealing or (Hockey Tape) rules!! BD.

[anonymous]

Rock on BD.

Steve

Rock on BD.

Steve

[bigdave]

I have done a little

I have done a little more work and have finished wiring and installing the ESC's in the power cylinders.
There was no room for connectors inside of the cylinder so I had to hard wire the motor and ESC.
The servo lead, switch lead, and power wires exit through a small short section of lexan tubing.
The tubing will be connected to a same size tubing exiting from the Otter box by a short length of silicone tube.
You can see in the one photo the copper disc heat radiator I have mounted in between the jet drive and power cylinder.
It is connected to the motor mounting bolts and I am hoping will pull away some of the heat from the motor stator.
I did another in water test in the laundry tub.
I really needed three hands but I did get a photo.
It is about 1/2 throttle and had some good thrust. BD.

[anonymous]

Nice BD.

Steve

Nice BD.

Steve

[Guest]

If you turned the motor

If you turned the motor end cap from a chunk of aluminium, it would act as a first rate heatsink.

The copper plate should work well though.

Have you got any snaps of the impeller used in the waterjet?