LA class sub
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Peter-
It's nice to see you posted here!
OK... who's LA is that model? If you could post some additional photos, both inside and out, that would help.
Are the diving surfaces attached? (rear planes, rudders, etc.)? Do you have the prop already mounted on the shaft, and is that secured inside the hull? Do you have the control linkages installed to move the rudders and planes?
Also, what is the size of the model? That will help assess what size ballast system you will need.
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Welcome Peter!
Glad you are posting here.
Who manufactures your LA? What scale is it?
As far as radioes go, a 75MHz radio is what most of us use (legal in the US), it can penetrate water. The modern 2.4GHz radios will not penetrate water very far (inches if you are lucky). If you go the route of 2.4GHz, you will need to always have several inches of antenna left above the surface. Several vendors that advertise here have some radios for sale. The other option is eBay or other used markets. While some submarines can be run with 4 channels, 6 or 8 channel versions are better or necessary.
What WTC to use? That is a little tougher to answer. Why? Because there is not one type that all uses. It is like saying I want pie for Thanksgiving, people might think you mean pumpkin, but for me it may mean something else. Wow, I think I am hungry.....
The reason I asked about scale is it will tell us the size of your sub and what room you have for a WTC.
Are you familiar with the types of systems out there? Static verses Dynamic? If not check out our beginners area at
To help we need to know where you are at and what you have done so far. Not because you are 15, but all of us needed help when we started in this hobby. I still need help and I am.....well, older.We will help you step by step as best we can. There are several builds or WIP (works in progress) here and other sites. I also recommend joining a meeting or fun run we have around. It is a chance to see what others are doing and ask questions.
I am sure others will jump in for more information!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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Hi every one thanks for helping me
I bought the sub from marks model bits http://www.modelboatbits.com/
The sub is 53 long and 5 beam
The dive planes on the sale are not functional
The rear dive planes are in a mess after I tried my best to get them on with glue
The propeller I was having a bit trouble with I will add some pictures in
The top and bottom hull had a part I needed to saw which I got help of my grandad to do
I’m not to sure how to fit the top hull with the bottom hull
Also there is abit of a problem with the end of the top hull as it is slightly shorter than the bottom one
I think I have put the Ruders in well but I’m still not sure I will also add photos of them
I was able to get some radio gear that the man I bought the sub of said I should get
Thank you for the advice
From peter
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Peter, Are you based in the USA or UK? I want to be sensitive to your location due to your age. However, there are groups across the world that we can get you in touch with. If you are in Europe or outside of the US, you have the benefit of 40MHz to use and they are still available!
So, do not worry about a mess, that can be cleaned up later. Let us pick the first spot to work on, rudders.
Here is a picture of my Skipjack being built:
or my Walrus:
or here is one, done by David Merriman for the Blueback:
You might be seeing a pattern.....The shaft on most of these is 1/8" or about 3mm. A simple hole drilled through is sufficient (some may put a bearing in - could be as simple as a tube the shaft will slip into). My walrus is a x-tail, but an LA can be done the same where a horn is attached to each shaft and then a rod connects to it. The other examples show a different way (there is not a right way or wrong way). Now I have skipped a lot of information. Please tell us what you do not understand and we can further explain.
Gluing parts on require some work, patience, and using the right glue. Do not use 5 minute epoxy. It will soften in use. CA (Cyanoacrylic) or super glue can be used, but the best is long curing epoxy of 1 hour or longer. You will need to prep the surface.
If Sub-Driver forum was up I would point you to some of the builds there, but search here for LA builds or any sub. The planes, rudders, and prop are similar among the builds.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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Welcome, Peter.
I tend to make all my parts if I can.
Here is another method of making the rudder and planes control yokes using brass rod and wheel collars.
I used 1/8" brass rod for the rudders because they are free standing.
No support on the ends.
I used 1/16" brass rod for the planes because they do have support on the ends.
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The rod going through the yokes is to keep them straight during soldering.
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