LA class sub

[salmon]

Inches is great! You have room to build.

To make it a surface runner is the same as setting up a boat as far as running gear goes and you can use a 2.4GHz radio. 2 Channel radio would work - one for rudder and one for speed. However, is that what you want? If it is we can help, but don't do it because you want a quick result or avoid frustration.

Also there is a gentleman in the UK who might help you too! His name is Ron Perrott at http://www.rcsubs.co.uk/, he has dive modules that would work (the pumped module may be perfect for you), contact him.

There are individuals here in the US and or UK I can get you in contact with if interested, just PM me.
We have several members in the UK maybe I can get one or two to jump into this conversation.
Building a functioning sub is difficult, but not unobtainable. Just take it in small steps. I built my first complete working sub 6 or 7 years ago. My tagline expresses some of the feelings while building a sub. There are moments of complete frustration, but there are great rewards.

[PETE witham]

How easy would it be to change from surface running to diving as maybe I could start of with a surface runner and then eventually get it to dive. What are the types of thing I need to make it run on the surface I have a few things already I will add a picture of them. Also what type of brass or metal should I use to get the connection to the rudder and to the prop
Thank you
From PETER

[PETE witham]

These are the things I have

[PETE witham]

Also what should I use to fix the end of the top hull I was think fibre glass as it is made out of that

Thanks again
From PETER

[salmon]

Before you worry about that, tackle one thing at a time. Take building a sub one step at a time. Are the rudders and planes done? If so, we will move on to the propeller. Once that is done move on to...... that is how I usually do it. If I jump around, it is because I am waiting on a part to dry or a tool I need to get.
To fix the space caused by cutting it, in the US it is called Bondo. The product I am currently using is Bondo Professional Glazing and Spot Putty, it is used on automobiles for dent finishing. It sands well. Straight Bondo is a lot tougher. When we get to that point, we can go into details of how.

[PETE witham]

Yah I found some on eBay I will buy it for when I get onto that step
Neither the rudder or planes are done how ever I do have some thing I believe are used for them I will add a picture . Also if I did decide to have it as a surface runner how easy would it be to eventually change it to a diving sub
Thanks from PETER

[sam reichart]

Just curious- If you got this from a dealer, how did you not get the piece of hull that covers the upper tail?

[PETE witham]

It was my mistake that happend was I had to sand part of the top half of the hull to make it fit the bottom hull how ever I sanded a bit to much off
From PETER

[JWLaRue]

Pete,

A couple of things:

• Can you confirm whether your radio is a 2.4GHz unit or something like a 40MHz unit? From the look of the antenna, it reminds me of a 2.4GHz radio....which would pose a bit of an issue for submerged operation.
• How many channels does your transmitter and receiver support?
• It looks like you have 2 servos. That would suffice for the rudder and the stern planes. Depending on what you choose to eventually use as a ballast system, you may need more.
• Whether you start as a surface runner or go straight into building a diving sub, you will need something to enclose the electronics, motor, and (preferably) the battery. There are two basic techniques to do this. The first is to build the waterproof area directly into the bottom hull. The other is to use a tube that sits inside the hull and is typically removable. The tube would have encapsulated that themselves removable.
• Can you tell us what kind of motor you have? It would be useful to know voltage rating and RPMs.
• You will need some sort of "shaft seals" that will allow you to run the servo pushrods and motor shaft out of the dry space and into the water.

This is sure to generate additional questions and dialogue, so please keep them coming and we'll continue to provide what help we can.

-Jeff

[JWLaRue]

It was my mistake that happend was I had to sand part of the top half of the hull to make it fit the bottom hull how ever I sanded a bit to much off
From PETER

If what you have is a gap...then Bondo (or equivalent) isn't the proper way to fix the problem. You will need to expand the edge of the hull using fiberglass cloth and resin.....

-Jeff

[salmon]

If what you have is a gap...then Bondo (or equivalent) isn't the proper way to fix the problem. You will need to expand the edge of the hull using fiberglass cloth and resin.....

-Jeff

Jeff is right! I misunderstood it as a cut line.

[PETE witham]

Yah will get all of that info when I come back from school
Also when I do eventually get onto the fibre glass part how difficult is it
Thanks again
From PETER

[bob the builder]

Peter,


Sorry I'm late to the game here. I've been swamped with builds and trying to get the forums at sub-driver.com migrated over to my own hosting and back up again (hoping to have all of these major issues resolved in the next 48hours.)

At any rate, here are my two cents:

You're 15, about the same age as my son. From a patience and implementation perspective, you've got ample capability in each. What you need is a mentor over there to walk you through the process in person. My first build back in 1999 took me three years, tons of money and frustration, and I was in my early 20's. Don't feel discouraged at the scope of what you're trying to accomplish and your struggles so far. They are absolutely to be expected.

With that said, if you don't have an experienced submarine modeler there who can help walk you through things in person, going the surface runner route is a completely valid, and likely recommended path to follow. Successfully completing the surface runner will provide you with the fundamental understanding of RC electronics, seals, linkages, control surfaces, cosmetics and more. It will also save you a lot of money, as a surface running watertight box can be fabricated for a few dollars versus hundreds for a complete static diving cylinder setup.

In line with the comments made by others here, you're trying to eat an elephant, and the only way to do that is... one bite at a time. Pick something to work on to the exclusion of all else, let's say your drive shaft and prop. Research that specific aspect, ask questions and get it right the first time (well.. maybe second time in this case). That done, you've won a battle. Move on to the next thing, such as your rudders. As you go, you'll gain confidence, made contacts who can help you out, and get exposed to all of the various ways that others have tackled similar problems.


Bob Martin
the Nautilus Drydocks

[PETE witham]

Thank you bob for all the advice I watched your YouTube videos which was one of the main reasons for getting into the sub hobby
Thanks again from peter

[PETE witham]

I’m attending my local model boat club on Sunday as well
From PETER