1/96 Thor Permit

[Parallax]

Tom, those pictures were really helpful. Looking at the seal with the O-ring in place, the band is definitely not even or as thick as in your pictures. I'll be back up at my dad's this weekend and well try using the Teflon tape. Hopefully there is no damage to the O ring, though it would probably make sense for me to hunt down spares. If I pull the bulkhead out, should I grease it when I put it back in?

Jeff, thank you for the heads up on how the tubes are constructed and you are right on where the ridge is located. Looking at the seal, it is weakest where the remaining flash is. I will take a photo of it before I sand it off. Sadly I think I am going to have to re-trim the whole sub.

Fingers crossed this takes care of any leaks.

[JWLaRue]

Mike,

Fixing the o-ring deal shouldn't require re-trimming? Or are there other things you will be doing?

-Jeff

[salmon]

Having spare o-rings can be a waste....I know that sounds shocking, but I have o-rings that are 6 years old and on inspection are as good as new. Why is this? Taking care of them. Greasing them with a good pure silicon grease (assuming you are using Buna-N o-rings - standard with Sub-Drivers). Let them air out and not be compressed constantly (I open my end caps to air things out and let the o-rings retain their original shape. Is this necessary? I recently fixed a sub that the o-rings were never undone and always compressed. They were fine. So, I do not know for sure if it makes a difference, it is what I always have been told/taught.
Yes, I would grease it when you reinstall it. When you remove it to inspect, wipe any grease off and visually and using your fingers look for any tears or nicks. If found then replace. Heck, some one here may have bought 50 of them and will send you a couple. Just ask.

[salmon]

Did you get a chance to work on your sub?
Looking over your postings.....You buy this Sub-Driver from Bob? I ask because if you did, some of the things you were missing or causing issues might be replaced.

[Parallax]

I actually got a chance to work on it on Sunday. I did all of the recommendations, and I think the problem is solved. I sanded the ridge down on the cap, wrapped the cap 3 times with Teflon tape, and re-greased the o-ring. There was a very noticeable visible improvement of the ring sealing to the cylinder. I submerged and surfaced the sub a few times, and then submerged it for about an hour and a half. When I brought it back up the forward compartment was completely dry. The aft electronic compartment had a tiny bit of moisture in it but nothing even remotely like what it was before. The O-ring seals all look good, so I am thinking I need to re-grease all of the seals the servo rods pass through as well as the driveshaft.

Here is a picture before I did anything, you can see the thin seal:

Here is the ridge on the cap:

After sanding:

Sealed with Teflon tape and grease

[JWLaRue]

Mike,

That was quite a blob of excess material on that end cap! It could well have been the case of the leak. Glad to hear that it's nice and dry now.

-Jeff

[Parallax]

My next mission is to get the emergency blow functioning. I did buy the cylinder from Bob, but all the issues I am having I believe are from my own lack of experience with the systems and not a problem with the gear.

The first problem I had with the blow system was confusion on how to get the brass strip that operates the vent to make contact with the Schroeder valve that is seated in the WTC bulkhead. There was a good centimeter distance between the two. I believe there was probably a block that was suppose to be attached to the the strip to bridge the gap. I did not have that so I sandwiched a bunch of small brass squares together and attached them to the strip. Now the problem I am running into is that the strip does not seem to be able to leverage enough force on the valve to force it open. I am wondering if I might have tightened the Schroeder valve too much. When I attempted to bend the strip to give it more leverage, it adversely effected the opening of the vent.
I will try and post pictures soon to show what is going on. I feel like this is the last big hurdle.

[Parallax]

Jeff,
I am really glad that seems to have solved the problem. I am feeling much better for our next outing, hopefully no more sinking lol. I just want to do a smidge more tuning to the ballast. You mentioned when we met that we shouldn't have to drive the Permit quite so fast to keep it down, and I'd like to get it there

Also I am borrowing my wife's nice camera next time so I can take better pictures. I can run a polarized lens on it to take off all of the reflections in the pool and make a sharper underwater image of our boats.

[JWLaRue]

Mike,

If you haven't solved the emergency blow by the next Fun Run, let's make a point to look at it. Jim and I will be glad to take a look at it.

-Jeff

[Parallax]

Looking at it again, I used double sided tape to secure the brass sandwich which is probably not a good idea but I could not figure out another way to do it since the strip needs to be flexible.

[salmon]

Looking at your pictures, are you trying to get gas to blow into the cylinder when out of the water? The way they are set up, it should only let gas into the ballast tank when filled with water.

[JWLaRue]

Looking at your pictures, are you trying to get gas to blow into the cylinder when out of the water? The way they are set up, it should only let gas into the ballast tank when filled with water.

Agree, Tom. That would be the correct behavior.

Mike, have you tried to adjust the two wheel collars? Their position is critical.

-Jeff

[bob_eissler]

Yes, move the wheel collars much closer to the valve. You shouldn't need the stuff you added to the brass strip. One direction slightly presses the gas valve down, the other direction barely opens the valve at the top. You don't need anything wide open, the water does the work.

[hunter h]

cheers the gas blow valve can be moved by unlocking the set screw that holds it and in your case moving it to the front then re lock the set screw. Caswell had a good two part video on you tube. hunter PS remove parts taped to link arm then adj

[bob the builder]

Yep! What they all said:

The actual valve can be moved by loosening the set screw, though ideally it will seat all the way back to ensure it doesn't eventually get forced back by the pressure from the actuator arm. I'd try working with it first fully seated and secured.
The arm neutral point is set via the wheel collars on the linkage shaft. Adjust so that at full pull, the valve is depressed about 1/16". If you've bent the arm, you may have a lot of fun getting everything to work properly as they come very precisely bent to shape. A the neutral position, your vent valve needs to be closed. At full push of the linkage, the valve needs to be open.

Bob