Fun With Magnets

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I bought the complete kit less the stand.
I did have to order the Hall Sensor because it is not included and is not listed as an option but should be.
--------------------
Yes, I am using the UBEC #3775
Power for the UBEC is soldered on the back side of the main power plug.

Yes, I am using the ARF.
ARF - Auto Reverse drive detection
---------------------
I am not an electronics guy.
Here is what I learned on my last boat.
I had so many problems.
1. Tx to Rx disconnect at 25 feet.
2. Main motor and Pump motors would not run steadily.
3. After about 4 minutes of running, the comp,ete system would shut down.

After asking questions and listening to many suggestions, I started over by connecting only 1 item to the Rx at a time.
Things would go good until I plugged the pump motor in.

Finally it was pointed out to me, I had too many power sources to the Rx.
I had a direct 2 wire battery to Rx power.
Ihad power coming from the Main MOtor ESC.
And I had power coming from the Pump motor ESC.

This was my first boat with brushless motors.
Turns out that the Main motor ESC and Pump motor ESC where sending power at different times and at times calceling each other out.
After I removed the 2 wire power I had direct to the battery and I cut the red power wire to the pump motor things got better.
I was not aware that the ESC plug to the Rx was also supplying power to the Rx.
Turned out to be too many power sources.

So to answer your question, . .
Is the power coming from the ESC?
Yes, it is most likely coming from the ESC.
=================
I am currently clear coating my hull.
Having many issues.
A suggestion. . . The hull comes already painted black.
The black is very thin and Had I known, I would have put another coat of black on the hull before clear coat.
This would have given me more room to sand the clear coat without sanding through the black.
This extra black coat needs to be out on before decals.

I was told to follow the instructions exactly with minor changes to a couple of wiring things.
I have tested all the electronics except for the main motor ESC.
All worked as it was suppose to.
This was before the Hall Sensor but the ballast motor worked as it should as an on/off motor.
I have not tested the Hall Sensor yet.

[Antoine]

Ralph, Are you using UBEC #3775?
If so, where did you pick up the power?
Also, are you using Reverse Drive Detection?
The wiring diagram shows a power connection for #8454 (no BEC Version)
Since there is no power wire on the #8455 (BEC Version) do you think it is powered from the ESC?

Hi,

To make simple, even if you use the UBEC, it is like if you did not use any BEC. It's the reason why the 8454 is included in the SET version.
The BL30 ESC has a built in BEC, in the instructions Engel does not recommend using it (due to power stability). If you use the 8454 even without removing the power wire from the ESC, the receiver won't be powered by the ESC as the Reverse Drive Detection cuts this power line.
The receiver gets its power from the UBEC that simulates the presence of a RX battery (UBEC is connected to the batt. socket of the RX, like a conventional setup), therefore the RDD is powered by the RX.
The UBEC uses the main battery power to convert it for the Rx.

[Oldus Fartus]

In my other boats I used a separate receiver battery and a short extension cable with the red wire disconnected between the ESC and the receiver.
I will use one of these extension cables with the red wire disconnected and power the receiver with the UBEC.

Engel sent me a Reverse Drive Detection #8455.
There are no red/black power wires on the RDD #8455, (only on the #8454)
If I use the UBEC wired as above, it looks like the RDD #8455 would then be powered by the receiver buss.
Correct?

[Antoine]

Nope, that's not correct if I understood correctly.
Do not change anything to the UBEC connection. Just plug it to your Rx as it was a battery connection (+ and - wires).
It might be a mistake from Engel, you should not have received a 8455 but a 8454 instead. Maybe you should contact Gregor about that.
Anyway, if you decided to keep the 8455, you have to connect the two pins (where there should be the red and black power wires of the 8454) to the pitch controller and disconnect the red wire of the ESC plug that is connected to the RDD (use for example your extension cable between the two devices).

[Oldus Fartus]

Nope, that's not correct if I understood correctly.
Do not change anything to the UBEC connection. Just plug it to your Rx as it was a battery connection (+ and - wires).
It might be a mistake from Engel, you should not have received a 8455 but a 8454 instead. Maybe you should contact Gregor about that.
Anyway, if you decided to keep the 8455, you have to connect the two pins (where there should be the red and black power wires of the 8454) to the pitch controller and disconnect the red wire of the ESC plug that is connected to the RDD (use for example your extension cable between the two devices).

It might just be easier to order the correct part #8454 from Engel.

[Oldus Fartus]

Ralph - Sounds like I need another coat of black.
Regular Rust-Oleum or 2X?

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

When I asked what to use, it was suggested to use the @x but . . .
This has turned in to some what of a bad experience so far.
This is what I got when I applied the first light coat.


I have been sanding with 400 grit paper to knock down the ridges.
This is where I have learned that the factory black coat is very thin.

I am at a place where I can not turn back and must keep going to try and get a good finish on the paint.

My current thoughts are to have painted 1 or 2 coats of flat black or even semi gloss black before adding decals.
The clear coat is to secure the decals.
I think a the 1 o2 coats of flat black paint would have done nicely and then add the decals.
To protect the decals, I would have used the clear matt finish paint but I would have sprayed a puddle on a piece of paper then used a small brush to go over the decals and their edges.

Please understand, I have never had any luck at painting.
Lots of experience is trying to fix what goes wrong.

It has been suggested to me that maybe I did not clean the hull right to start with.
Well, I cleaned the hull twice on 2 different days.
I used Dawn dish soap and a sponge.
Water ran over the hull with out beading up or breaking flow.

Only thing I can think of is I was too close when I applied the clear coat.

The weather here is not cooperating.
High winds so I have not been able to try the second coat yet.

I am hooping that the second coat goes better than the first but I am also preparing myself that I may to having to remove all the paint and start over.

Another thought is, I would have been better off just car waxing the boat after applying the decals.
---------------
Sorry, I can not be more positive at this point.

My boat could have been completed 2 weeks ago if it was not for the issues with painting. I hate painting!

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I could also just leave what every happens and say it is the water shadows from the sun going through the water like on the bottom of a swimming pool.<G>

[Oldus Fartus]

I could also just leave what every happens and say it is the water shadows from the sun going through the water like on the bottom of a swimming pool.<G>

I assume that was the Rust-Oleum 2X Clear Matte? I bought a can but maybe it's not compatible with the black?
I have never used that particular paint; for my Fast Electrics I used ColorRite Urethane paint (primer, color and clear); but that was starting with bare wood using the same system of paints.
I wonder what kind of paint Engels used for the matte black; probably should use the same type of matte clear.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

If you send an e-mail to Engels, you will usually get an answer the same day of at least the next day.

[Oldus Fartus]

If you send an e-mail to Engels, you will usually get an answer the same day of at least the next day.

Email sent

[Oldus Fartus]

When I asked what to use, it was suggested to use the @x but . . .
This has turned in to some what of a bad experience so far.
This is what I got when I applied the first light coat.


I have been sanding with 400 grit paper to knock down the ridges.
This is where I have learned that the factory black coat is very thin.

I am at a place where I can not turn back and must keep going to try and get a good finish on the paint.

My current thoughts are to have painted 1 or 2 coats of flat black or even semi gloss black before adding decals.
The clear coat is to secure the decals.
I think a the 1 o2 coats of flat black paint would have done nicely and then add the decals.
To protect the decals, I would have used the clear matt finish paint but I would have sprayed a puddle on a piece of paper then used a small brush to go over the decals and their edges.

Please understand, I have never had any luck at painting.
Lots of experience is trying to fix what goes wrong.

It has been suggested to me that maybe I did not clean the hull right to start with.
Well, I cleaned the hull twice on 2 different days.
I used Dawn dish soap and a sponge.
Water ran over the hull with out beading up or breaking flow.

Only thing I can think of is I was too close when I applied the clear coat.

The weather here is not cooperating.
High winds so I have not been able to try the second coat yet.

I am hooping that the second coat goes better than the first but I am also preparing myself that I may to having to remove all the paint and start over.

Another thought is, I would have been better off just car waxing the boat after applying the decals.
---------------
Sorry, I can not be more positive at this point.

My boat could have been completed 2 weeks ago if it was not for the issues with painting. I hate painting!

I wonder how this stuff works?

https://www.drbeasleys.com/matte-paint-coating.html

[Oldus Fartus]

Email sent

Gregor never responded as to what type of clear/matte he uses???

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I have been e-mailing back and forth with Engels about decals and such.
Here is part of a message I received from Gregor at Engels about clear coating.
----------------------
. . . .Water-based is the safest. A 2-component paint might be critical.
Best Regards
engel-modellbau
Gregor A. Engel

[Oldus Fartus]

I have been e-mailing back and forth with Engels about decals and such.
Here is part of a message I received from Gregor at Engels about clear coating.
----------------------
. . . .Water-based is the safest. A 2-component paint might be critical.
Best Regards
engel-modellbau
Gregor A. Engel

I assume by "critical" he means a 2-part (epoxy) paint might cause "problems"?