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What a most wonderful and interesting way to write and say that nothing has really happened on your Gato build, Jeff. But I have to admit I was glued to the screen and riveted by your yarn spinning prowess. Can't wait for the next installment!
As always, you're very kind, Pete. Hope everyone else is as forgiving as you! Me? I'm frustrated I haven't been able to get beyond reorganizing the shop yet. But as I say, if nothing else, the hull halves go together this weekend. Gotta cut into at least some of the top for access to epoxy-in a strip of fiberglass along the keel joint after it's been styrene weld-glued.
"THE KEEL OF USS HARDER, SS-257, WAS LAID DOWN TODAY IN OF ALL PLACES, LA MIRADA, CALIFORNIA..."
Yes, friends, the hull halves went together today, so I'm off and running. As mentioned, I decided to replace the kit's feeble styrene joining/positioning pins with segments of brass rod. I did this after experiencing Blueback's hull break apart at SunNFun years ago after weakening from improper transport and then suffering a well-placed collision. (Remember, Paul?) I therefore want Harder's hull to be as robust as possible.
To cut brass rod into pin lengths, I first tried the traditional little rod cutter tool. It took ages to even get close to achieving one decent cut. (This thing was designed for cutting brass tubes rather than rods, I figure.) I therefore abandoned that method for a cutoff wheel and my trusty Dremel. This too took far too much time and effort; heck I'd need seventeen of these little pins over the course of the build! Finally I remembered the bolt cutters in my household (not hobby) tool box, and they really did the trick. Filed the ends for a while then remembered to use the Dremel to grind off the burrs instead—and I was quickly good to go.
Here's a shot of my brass pins (including some extras) all lined up and ready for business. They're 1/8" diameter, so I did have to ream out their receiving holes along the hull a little bit for them to fit properly.
Note in the above shot you can see one of the three styrene kit pins I've installed across the top edge of the hull to temporarily hold it together (when the brass rods will be curing along the keel edge). They'll eventually be removed along with the top of the hull, of course.
So, I then went ahead and glued the halves together by brushing liquid weld-type styrene cement on all the pin and hole locations. The halves mated very well fore and aft, but I find there's a there's a thin gap along the middle third or so of the keel. This was not unexpected, based on my reading, so Evercoat here I come (eventually). The brass-pinned joint is curing now. Here's a shot][/url]
The hull was too big for clamping, so I made do with rubber bands and twist ties. Next time (next week?) I'll cut some access space into the top of the joined hull so I can get in with epoxy and fiberglass strips along the inside of the keel joint.
Hi back. Don't blame you a bit, because I'm using the same approach: the hard stuff I'm letting Crozier and Kisler do first, so they can teach/show me. So get in line behind me, bub!
P.S. I also put in some more time on Blueback's faulty lighting and Seaview tweaking. A LOT more of that in my weekly future.
Tell that to the gremlins still residing in her sail! I've messed with those lights so many times I've lost count. Worked great in Texas, brought her home and they crapped out. Fixed it again: success. More tests: failure. And I still can't find that short! Now if I just push in on the port nav light a certain way she lights up like Christmas. It's become a kind of secret handshake thing, I guess...
I found with my Virginia sail lights (LEDs) that the cathode side of the metal lead corroded away in no time at all when exposed to the water. Then it barely made contact , off and on, for a while before not working at all.
On my Ohio and my Revell Type VII I have coated everything with the liquid electrical tape to keep all the leads dry. Seems to be working very well.
That's great advice, and I've actually tried it...but apparently a little too late in my case. I see what I really need to do now is haul ALL the wiring and lights out of the sail and do it all over from scratch—a huge undertaking, since so much of that stuff is now epoxied or rubber-coated in. It would take hours, if not actual days, since the LEDs were custom-ground to fit, etc. I'm afraid the war effort's simply not gonna put up with that kind of peacetime diversion. Japanese ships are out there afloat and just asking for it—especially destroyers, in Harder's case—and that clarion call is not to be ignored.
So I started my first bit of actual work this week. Since the AMP stern tube shutters arrived and looked pretty nice I started there. My plan is to get the Wahoo-specific modding done on each major section before I do the serious assembly. Portsmouth plan boats had stern tube shutters where EB plan boats (like the stock kit part below) did not. Since Wahoo's build yard, Mare Island, used Portsmouth plans I need to add the shutters.
I have found that my Dremel cutting bit works well at removing plastic. The install required opening up the stern tube slots for both the shutter and a hull piece that will capture the forward end of the hull dimple that runs the length of each shutter. Files were used for the fine edge work. Note I have also sanded down the prop guard hull flanges. They must disappear! And I also opened up the oblong limber hole between the shutters. The row of kit holes will be filled in soon.
Now don't freak out -- that is a VERY rough fit below. And I'm trying to hold all four parts in place with one hand from the back side. And take a picture at the same time. Trust me -- when I'm done it will look much better (hopefully). But you get the idea.
Here's a yard shot of a Portsmouth boat with the shutters. That's what we're going for.
Hey guys, just a thought here, looking for your comments...
Take a close look at the photo of Harder's post-'44-overhaul silhouette photo immediately below][/url]
Now look at the sail provided with your Revell kit (or at Paul's photo of same on page one of this thread).
Does the actual Harder's sail look foreshortened to you—in comparison, I mean? Is it an optical illusion created perhaps by Harder not being exactly broadside to the camera? Like maybe she's turned slightly toward? Or is it just my imagination? Or am I, as I'm now thinking, looking at shortening my kit sail somewhat to match, just as I'll be rearranging and tinkering with the kit's masts to match Harder's photos?
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