Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

[JWLaRue]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Let me scan and post a photo. There should be less slots than that.

-Jeff

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Here is a drawing of the basic hull design.
Not sure if it's accurate or just a representation drawing.


I am sure you have researched this boat far more than I.

[gwen]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

These are photos of U-995, there are definitely a lot more slots than in the drawing you posted...





And this is a PE brass model upgrade based on U-995][/url]

I know all boats were not identical but as the only suviving type VII I think it makes the best reference for any parts that haven't been modified in restoration. Any thouhghts on this?

[JWLaRue]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Gwen,

The photo of the U-995 is one of the ones I was looking for. I had forgotten that she has that many flood holes in the stern...though I have seen photos of other boats with quite a bit less.

I'm always a bit cautious about using the U-995 as an example of what these boats looked like during the war since this boat served in the Norwegian navy post-WW2 and a number of changes were made. Even today we can see a number of areas where the boat is not 'original'. The most obvious being the steel skin on the bow. However, the lower stern appears to be pretty much intact!

Just an educated guess here....but I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the Type VIIC boats built prior to and early in WW2 had less free flood vents. Those built later having more added as experience in the North Atlantic dictated a need for better sea keeping in the ocean (vs. North Sea) as well as a desire for faster dive times.

The U-96 was laid down September 1939...so it would be an early boat. Now if I could just find those photos!

-Jeff

[tompinnell]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Not sure if this helps have this drawing of U995, will keep looking have a full set of Fritz Kohl drawings somewhere, great work what you have done so far keep it going

[gwen]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Thanks for the images guys!

Today's work update...

[gwen]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Can someone recommend some good bearings to use for the propeller shafts? I know bearings for RC aircraft but not so much for subs. Actually while I'm on the subject of propulsion, I could use recommendations for electric motors too.

[vasily]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Gwen,
Planes use ball bearings. There are good ball bearings for subs, and there are affordable ball bearings for subs. Good ball bearings are sealed, and stainless steel. Affordable ball bearings are open or shielded (to keep boulders out) and 51200 chrome steel. Good bearings will be 8 to 25 bucks each or more at McMaster Carr, and affordable bearings are $2 bucks a pair at ServoCity.
You might want to shift your focus to plastic bushings, especially for immersed applications. Acetal plastic absorbs the least amount of water than any other plastic, and works well submerged. Unless you need absolute axial rigidity while turning, you can get a slightly oversize hand reamer and open them up a few thousandths to reduce friction to just about zero.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

I have had no problems using oillite bronze bushing bearings.
They are in the wet, though in the dry wouldn't be a problem.
They cost a couple of dollars at any bearing supply store.
Can be ordered on line.
Require no maintenance.

Using brass tubing requires keeping it greased or the tubing will corrode and actually fuse to it's support tube.

I use FF-303-4 bushings. 3/16" shaft and 1/2" long.
http://bearing-solutions.isostatic.com/ ... rings-inch

They show the next shorter bushing (FF-303-3) but it is 7/16" long for $1.99 each.
http://www.bronzebushings.com/sae-841-s ... s.html?p=6

[JWLaRue]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Gwen,

For in-the-water use (e.g.: bearings in the prop shaft A-frame), I'd stay away from ball bearings and use something like Rulon (McMaster-Carr has them) or Oilite bearings. These require no maintenance and have been used by the r/c sub community for decades.

-Jeff

[gwen]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Thanks Guys! I'll start looking for some oilite bearings I think.

Any suggestions on good motors?

[southern or]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

If and whenever all the dust settles, I would use Graupner or another German motor-and go for one a few volts and milliamps above whatever your going to use to power them. Maybe it's just me, but I've exploded, sized, and set fire to almost every motor I've had that came out of China (3 so far, and 2 ESCs). To be fair, though, a shaft got bent in shipping and that's what killed one ESC and motor. The other 2 motors were just bad. I'm not really sure why these haven't caught on, but I use Mtroniks' Marine Viper ESCs. Haven't had any complaints after I converted over to them and they're waterproof.

[gwen]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Project update- I decided to take a break from the keel section while waiting for some parts to arrive and started building the conning tower. I picked up some thin sheet brass and started on it yesterday. Here's where I am now:









I'm not to happy with the flood hole patterns above the ladder area and will be redoing them...

[southern or]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

If my vague memory serves, didn't these guys have multiple option deck guns? Have you decided which one to go with?I have to give you credit though, that's a lot more work then my OSCAR will need.

[gwen]

Re: Gwen's all metal scratch built 1/32 Type VIIc

Today's updatee. Working on conning tower deck plates...





I also redid the flood holes above the ladders