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Any colour other than Red would be best. Red is the first colour to disappear as you go deeper. So its stands to reason you wont be able to see red on the surface if the sub is deep.
Because absorption is greater for long wavelengths (red end of the visible spectrum) than for short wavelengths (blue end of the visible spectrum). Thanks Wiki for the science, that why many underwater video cameras have red filters, to put the red back in.
Thank you sir!
So, it blew a fuse......but after running for 45 minutes.
I did the initial trial, but shortly after running it (it ran so well and behaved so nicely) I handed the controls for Sam to run.
He and I both were able to get a pseudo neutral buoyant (well close enough) attitude with the Neptune.
So I went to go sit with grandma and Tina and a little while later, the sub was on the surface and Sam yelled it stopped. We figured it ran out of battery. Although that was pretty harsh not to let us have any throttle to guide it in.
When I got home, I put the battery on the charger and it had about 11.7 volts on it, I thought that should be more than adequate to run. Checked the fuse and that is when we discovered the fuse was blown. The internals were dry (yeah!) and I did not smell any electronic burning smell. So gurus of the Neptune, is the prop too much for this boat? It is a three blade, 40 mm outside diameter with a 41 mm pitch (do not know for sure what that means or if that is a steep pitch). How does the Raboesch prop compare to that?
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
This is the boat with the aftermarket gearbox installed? Did you receive the standard kit-supplied parts that were removed during the 'conversion'?
Okay, that aside...it would be good to know what the amp draw is when under full throttle (and even better the prop is in water). We'd then need to check the ESC to see what it's rating is. I don't recall from looking at mine...perhaps BD could chime in on this?
One other thought - you could consider replacing the fuse with a fuse that resets automatically after a period of time. That would get you back to 'shore' in the event of future problems.
Jeff,
Thank you. The planetary gear drive was removed, it is back to stock (purchased replacement parts). Andy also suggested testing with the prop in water, I guess I better do that. Now for the dummy question....I have never tested the amps drawn from a motor is that a measurement between pos. and neg. or is that an inline test negative passing through the meter?
Thank you for your help!
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
I would just add the next size larger fuse.
The ESC in the sub is actually quite robust and has built in over current protection.
I am sure you are drawing more amps than the stock prop at full throttle but the motor will be fine with it. BD.
sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
"I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K
Which prop are you now using? The stock prop of the TT 'power' prop? I'm using the TT power prop and have not had any problems with the fuse kicking out. If yours is the same, then this might be useful comparative information to help track down the problem.
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