Scale Ship Oscar 2

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

That makes me feel a little bit better, at least im not the only one having issues. Actually im just trying to be a good reporter,its not that big of a deal, really.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Here is what I ordered from Mcmaster&Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-rods- ... ds/=6uh4fg

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

When epoxying the joint I suggest that you use good masking tape( not the blue stuff) to seal up the outside of the hull so that the liquid epoxy doesnt leak through. Also in the picture you can see that the joint is a hump and your epoxy will tend to run off the joint. So I use fiberglass cloth and that helps(somewhat)to hold the epoxy down in the joint. As time passes and the epoxy starts to set up it will slowly get thicker and will not have the tendancy to run so much. In fact after mixing the two parts together it might be advantagious to wait a little while for it to thicken up a bit, but not too much as you want it to flow down into the joint. Another thing that I do is to have a plastic spoon at the ready so you can scoop up any epoxy that runs off and re-apply it at the joint until it doesnt run off anymore. Then a rag will clean up the residue left behind adjacent to the joint.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Here is a picture of epoxy applied with the cloth. It makes for a tidy job.

Ofcourse since gravity is your enemy you have to rotate the hull and do the job a little at a time.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

The epoxying of the seam is finished so I removed the masking tape from the outside and sure enough the seam had been filled up to the masking tape. Perfect. Goes to show what would have happened if I had not applied the mask. Would have been a big mess. I am presently working on the Subdriver and its electronic componants trying to get everything in sync. I put down some lead weight in the keel and am contemplating the foam locations. This will be an educated guess. The adjustments will be made in the pool, still a couple of weeks out.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

The Caswell/Merriman Subdriver is finished with all the servos and electronics installed. It was a close fit as I used standard servos which are space hogs and the Polk 8 channel reciever which aint no skinny minny either. And then there was the Snort pump and switch but I got it all shoehorned in there.





I used model boat fuel tubing to plumb the snort pump and to keep the hoses out of the way I CAed them to the side of the servos.

You can see here if you look closely the 2 brass nipples coming out of the end cap. They are for the snort hookups. Also note the wires coming out as well. They are for hookup to the waterproffed servo mounted up front for the bow planes

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Ok , lets look at the progress made this weekend.

I removed the thrust plate to reveal the supporting angles. Then It was time to start with the foam.






Snugger than a bug in a rug.


Then it was on to installing my diagonal pushbolt to even things up. It does the job. Now I need to index the two pieces together and see how good we can get them to line up.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Some more on this thing.

Here we have the linkages hooked up. I calibrated everything with the Polk radio (servo reverse, end point adj)and everything looks good.



This is the snort system manifold in place and hooked up. I was afraid that it might come loose from the subdriver. If that happened it could cause the sub to keep taking on water. So I sanded the spot where it was to be attached and then wiped it down with solvent and then siliconed it on slightly off center so that the hoses would not interfere with the vent area.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2


After installing the stainless steel threaded rod into position and screwing it out with the nuts on the rod it has taken the lopsidedness out of the stern section where it joins the midsection.That helps true things up but there is still a big mismatch in the shape of the stern section in relation to the midsection. So what I propose doing is making a dual bulkhead with indexing pins for alignment. This(if I do it right) will pull everything into alignment.I hope! This task will have to wait for another time as Im not going to allow this hickup to push my schedule back any further. This weekend it goes into the pool for trimming out. There adjustments will be made to the foam and lead ballast weights to get the best compromise between submerged trim and surface trim. The goal with this boat from the start is to try to get as much freeboard as possible as the full size boats many times are seen running very high in the water. Also we will be testing the snort system to see how long it takes to go from hull down position to waterline condition. I am very excited. Once the boat has reached full operational status it will be pulled down for detailing and painting. And you will be there as I will document everything for you to see.

This is one of the many masts that come with the hull. There are so many infact that it will look like a porcupine if I elect to install all of them. Makes you wonder whether or not the boat will capsize with all of them up there.HA! Just kidding. Anyway , this particular mast is different than the others in that it is hollow. I am going to use it for the snort vent as it will always be sticking out high above the sail.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2


When you make up your drive shafts make sure that after you CA them you drill thru them and pin them, otherwise you might have a failure. I have had it happen before. Sometimes super glue is not so super.

[Guest]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Cyano has very poor shear strength, but an application like that would be a severe test for any adhesive.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Subculture, have you ever noticed that if you allow CA to cure on its own you have a stronger joint , whereas if you use an accelerater it becomes brittle and fails without warning. I may be shot down for this but I experimented years ago with Fiberglass resin. By adding less MEK than suggested the product still cooked off but the end product seemed much more durable.

[Guest]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

I agree that accelerator makes CA joints a lot more brittle.

With GRP, can't say I've ever experienced problems. Only ever used pongy polyester, and reblended stuff at that (cheap as chips), the mouldings I've done come out fine and very strong, but i always follow the manufacturers recommended catalyst quanitity, and choose warm days to laminate (don't get many of those though).

Andy

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

THE INDEXER,(bulkheads) I didnt want to but it looks like its the only answer to matching the two different shapes that I have with the stern section and the midsection at the joint. It will be made to the shape of the stern section and pinned. Then I will epoxy the back half into the stern section. The front half will be more involved. Starting from the exact center of the trailing edge of the midsection I will have to spot tack it with CA as I work the hull around it , forcing it to conform to the shape of the indexer. Once the test fit is complete , then it can be epoxied. But first ,the trimming will be done and some operational tests will be carried out. The INDEXER will add some weight but we can adjust for that later. If it works as planned I will cut it down so that it will only protrude into the hull about a half inch and at that point I should be able to remove the stainless diagonal threaded rod brace.

[greenman407]

Re: Scale Ship Oscar 2

Ok , as promised we hit the pool for trim testing this weekend.

But first , this is what lead up to it. Here you can see the mast that I drilled a hole in so that the snort system could use it as a vent.



And here it is installed in a temporary fashion.

Also my patented , state of the art , high tech(not really) ballast tank vent tube as seen from underneath the upper hull. Notice the bell end that I put on it. How did I do it??? With this.

Its a swagging tool. You can get them at home depot for cheap in the plumbing department.