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The Main upper hull piece is held on with a screw in the front that goes through the tab I created on the front. The aft end of the main upper hull is held down by those 3 NiCu rods I fiber glassed into the hull.
The turtle back is held down by the SS rod I installed in the front to replace the once you molded in. The aft swinging hatch (aka aft shore power trunk) gives access to the screw that retains the aft end of the trurtle back to the main upper hull. Again I used one of the panels I cut out earlier to make the support for the bottom of the turtle back. Once I cut it to proper shape I epoxied it in place. That part sucked!
I also plan to turn the forward shore power trunk into a push button on off switch.
Well also according to my father, at least in my teenage years. The lump between my shoulders. I can't wait to see your boat when you finally get up here.
Thats funny you ask cause Tony just asked the same thing about 5 min ago. I want to try a pump based system but dont have all knowledge to create one. If you guys know how I would love to learn it. If not I think a bag would be good. I dont want to spend all my money on gas trying to surface this thing and a LPB would take about 2 min for a tank this size and I cant see myself trolling the surface waiting to surface.
But hey everything is in the air at this point and subject to change without prior notice...just like the navy.
I don't know if Tony mentioned it but he has a custom basic WTC he bought from Dave Manley I believe and I don't think he is going to use it. It's original purpose was for an RCABS setup. Talk to him and see what he's doing with it. It may be a good start and I think it may be large enough for that Ohio. At any rate I think between all of us in the group we should be able to point you in the right direction.
I'm stealing that fastener idea, although I think I'll put a turn clip on the end of the screw so all it has to do is turn 90 degrees and latch and not thread into anything. Otherwise it's brilliant.
Or take a look at my non pressurized tank system cost around 40.00$ and you can hover for misslle lauch!
One tank to your size from PVC or even a bottle,just instal baffles.
See the diagram in Type XXI build.Works like a charm.And is very simpe to build.
You have have seen my subs in action a while ago now there even better as I have been perfecting the system.
My only concern is the motor. I may need a big one for the 3 1/4" prop on this thing.
For my OTW Vanguard, which is the same scale(ish) I have a motor made by Premotec. It's 24 volt and spins at 2500RPM free running and about 1700 RPM under load, under load (prop in a bucket) power used is about 35 watts, which is half the stall wattage of this motor. Does it's work pretty easily.
It's a large diameter armature, so it runs direct drive. I guess you will want to run 12 volts, as 24 volts can be a bit of a problem when sourcing ESC's. Car breakers will unearth some nice large motors for such a boat. Look at car heater blower motors.
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