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Before gluing the hull pieces together I had to make the recess for the inlet scoops in the hull.
Hull pars were taped together.
Recess was roughly milled out with a proxxon hand grinder.
To mark the high spots of the recess the scoop was colored with a pencil and nested in the recess, a rolling motion was carried out, the high spots showed off clearly as black dots and can be grinded off. The process was repeated several times until the scoop was nested deep enough in the recess.
Hull parts were then clued together.
Release agent was applied on the scoops, EUREKA putty was applied (polyester finishing filler) in the recess and the scoop was pressed in, excess filler was squeezed out and scraped away. When the filler started to harden out the scoop was gently removed from the recess, the result is a recess that is a perfect footprint of the scoop.
As my surface table that I had constructed for the AKULA turned out to small I had to fabricate a new surface surface/table that would fit the V3 hull’s.
All sections (4pc) of the lower hull were glued together. The small aft section needed some TLC, EUREKA putty was applied to level up the piece with the other sections.
The mating surface of the lower hull was then sanded completely flat on the surface table.
It took me quite some time to purchase the grinding paper you see on the surface table, yeah it is one piece.
The seams of the different sections were dressed up with the same putty and sanded down.
The lower hull is ready to take her first coat of primer.
Tomorrow the upper hull will take the same treatment.
THks Bob, it is printed in resin. I use a low budget DLP (digital light processing) printer for it....very small built volume but high detail.
But you parts need a lot of TLC in the pre- and post -processing faze.
The sail was an experiment, it was actually to big to print it with my printer, had to print in in two parts, think it took +30hours in total to print it.
This will be my second propeller I made the first one was for my AKULA, there I used brass sheetmetal for the blades, now I wanted to add some body into it by designing the blades with actual airfoil shaped cross-sections.
I refer to David Merriman's excellent explanation of propeller making in a SCR from some time ago.
I do not want to post a picture of the prop assembly without explaining what it takes to design a propeller. If you want the skip all this just scroll down, but in my opinion, this is part of the fun.
The V3 I’m trying to make here is equipped with a tandem propeller. Each propeller has 4 blades, so the complete propeller assembly has 8 blades.
Based on the pictures I made following assumptions in my design.
It is a non-skewed propeller as the projected outline is symmetrical in most pictures (Projected Outline is the outline of the silhouette created on a screen just forward of the propeller, by a light directly behind the propeller, shining directly forward).
The total propeller is quite short although it there are two propellers involved here, the propeller will have very little rake (A propeller with rake has blades that slant fore or aft of a line perpendicular to the propeller axis of rotation).
The pitch of both propellers is the same (The pitch is the linear distance that a propeller would move in one revolution with no slippage).
Based on the info provided in the article following dimensions were determined:
Pitch 53mm (17 feet for a real one)
Diameter 49mm (6m for a real one)
The projected area ratio is about 70% (Projected Area is expressed as a percentage of total disc area: PAR ≡ Projected Area/Disc Area, the Projected Area is the area enclosed by the projected outline of the blades and the disk area is the area of the circle scribed by the blade tips)
It will be a constant pitch propeller (With Constant Pitch Propeller the propeller blades have the same value of pitch from root to tip).
The cross-sections of the blade changes with the radius, the root is thicker than the blade tip (see expanded sections in picture below).
Max blade thickness 2.5mm (root)
Hub diameter, decided to make the whole hub assembly conical in continuation of the stern hull shape, the fwd end diameter of the fwd hub is 12mm, the aft end diameter of the aft hub is 10mm.
Now that I had determined all that stuff I could start making the propellers.
Pictures below are the propeller at different stage’s.
All blade roots milled to fit the slot in the propeller hub(s). I numbered the blades to make sure they go into the right slot.
Blades were glued in the hub slots by means of thin CA, the root filled was accomplished by applying thick CA.
I coated everything with a shot of primer, which was sanded down, touched up all remaining imperfections. The sanding paper is used to clean up the mating surfases of the hubs.
I also provided recesses and bosses for indexing the different parts of the tandem propeller.
Second layer of primer applied……yeah, she is a beauty if I may say so myself.
Will you be making the “post walker prop” as well?
I'm sorry but I'm not familiar with this expression, I think you referring to one of those 7 blade high skewed propellers?
It was not planning too, as this specific submarine, the K-414 only had a tandem prop. But now you raised the question maybe I will make one if I have some spare time in between things.
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