1/72 SSN 22 Connecticut

[eckloss]

I printed out saddles for the cylinder and adhered them in. The end braces to keep the WTC in place are printing now. I had to oversize the saddles just a bit to push out the sides of the boat so the top deck fit perfectly.

[eckloss]

I had to fill the seam of the waterline cut and contour the hull a bit by adding loads of putty to the glass. Once it was sanded down to shape the upper deck was snapped off and the seam was smoothed out. The result was a upper hull that sits very nicely on the lower hull without any major gaps or valleys.

[eckloss]

I have done a bit of work over the past few days. I re-printed the WTC saddles to be larger and stronger. The forward and rear WTC catches are inlace that hold the cylinder down and locked into position with only one screw. The cylinder itself is all wires up and set to go. I am also currently printing a battery tray for a 5000mah lipo. today I'm working on the linkages and forward dive planes.

[eckloss]

Trying to get the linkages complete. I'm about 1/3 way there

[pirate]

Jeez, Erich. What the h3ll is taking you so long? Why isn't that thing in the water yet?

Note to self: never put a hull in the sun to dry anything. Never leave it in the sun, especially when finished, if not absolutely necessary, and then for only a short amount of time.

So I see you've learned that lesson the same way I did. Sounded like a good idea in my head.

[eckloss]

I'm getting there....I'm getting there! It WILL be done by the 10th. Period.

[eckloss]

linkages are complete. wtc is installed and all is working correctly. now it's time to turn my attention to detailing the hull above the water line

[eckloss]

Started painting the main hull. I'm using Duracoat paints (https://www.lauerweaponry.com), which are made for painting firearms. I've painted a few guns in the past and had a large supply of "Combat Black" paint to use up. The paint is a little bit thicker than normal paint, goes on well, adheres to fiberglass very well, and is tough as nails when it cures (full cure time is three weeks). It's made to withstand gun blasts after all. Lightened it up a little bit so the hull would be a dark gray. A little too light in my opinion, but so be it. I'm not remixing and re-painting the whole thing again. Bow nose and arrays are black, as will be the anti-skid area of the upper hull.

Look, i'm not at all skilled with an air-brush. I'm a rattle can kinda guy. So this is a departure for me. Cut me some slack :-)

[thor]

Can it be thinned out at all? They have some really nice red tints. One, in particular, is a dead ringer for the antifouling red. Of course, it is a bit hard to determine the colors for certain on a computer screen....

[eckloss]

Matt,

Yes, it can be thinned out. You have to use their proprietary stuff called "reducer". Paint thinner won't work. But I like the effect its giving me going on a little thick. It gives the skin a little texture.

e.

[eckloss]

This is the first time I've ever tried to weather a boat. I don't know if my first attempt here is acceptable or way off the mark. I'd appreciate brutally honest comments.

[wlambing]

Erich,

You're in a good place! I would only suggest bringing the light gray down on the hull a little farther and a bit more of it onto the stern appendages, they look too dark. Very lightly, though!!! B^)

[eckloss]

welp, this is as good (or bad) as it's gonna get.

the hull was white-washed with some white oil paint, most of which was taken back off with 0000 steel wool, leaving kind of a frosted glass effect.

the algae is a green chalk, brushed on and tapped down with a towel.

looks better in person.

[PaulC]

Looks great to me.

[eckloss]

thanks paul.

i'm not convinced yet that its 'right'. something about it just seems off.