My wonderful wife got me the 31" NAUTILUS as a Christmas gift in 2012. After seeing bob the builder's latest thread, I decided it was time to open the box and begin assembly. I started by gluing some brass tube in the nose. I drilled holes for LED lights. The lower depth tube bracket broke, so I replaced it with some brass tube. I used a laser level to mark the upper stern for cutting.
31" nautilus
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The Nautilus Drydocks 31" kits come with the skiff, hatches, etc as well as a fully detailed wheelhouse interior. I'm working on developing a full salon kit (masters are done and I'm just waiting on Scott to mold and cast parts). I also have a few upgrade pieces available like accurate propellers in plastic or metal, super detailed skiff, etc.
The Nautilus Drydocks - Exceptional Products for the World of R/C Submarines - www.nautilusdrydocks.com
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Sweet! The skiff was my favorite part! I always wondered though, how does a metal boat kept upright in the wet hull of a submarine stay dry and usable? Further more, how much would that thing weigh? That looks like a sweet kit and it even has the iris shutters! I especially like the seal and the divers.Originally posted by bob the builder View PostThe Nautilus Drydocks 31" kits come with the skiff, hatches, etc as well as a fully detailed wheelhouse interior. I'm working on developing a full salon kit (masters are done and I'm just waiting on Scott to mold and cast parts). I also have a few upgrade pieces available like accurate propellers in plastic or metal, super detailed skiff, etc.
www.nautilusdrydocks.com
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The stock ram is cast white metal, and certainly up to the task of looking good on a display model, or securing the hull halves on an operating one. I decided to make a spare while I had an intact original on the bench.Originally posted by sub culture View PostYou'll be popular with that metal prod on the front of your boat!
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Work on the dorsal fin consisted of drilling a vent hole near the after end. I tried drilling from the top, and my drill bit wandered to the port side, opening a small split in the port side of the fin. I elected to glue a small piece of styrene over the split.. Then I continued drilling from the bottom and installed a brass tube. The V shaped notch in on the bottom of the dorsal fin provided clearance for the pin vise chuck. Added the cast bitts and cleats.
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You could glue a similar shape styrene sheet on the starboard side and add some rivets- sort of representation of a reinforcement plate.
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I built two of these for friends. Both used BigDaves RCABS cylinders. The perfect match for this boat and trouble free. They were good runners.
Stevewww.steveneillsgarage.com
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Looking great so far!
I just put up a video of RC prepping this hull in case you find it helpful!:
The Nautilus Drydocks - Exceptional Products for the World of R/C Submarines - www.nautilusdrydocks.com
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