3D printed subs ?

[thor]

In the case of that model you can see the rough faceting on the 3d Model. What resolution is your printer set at?

[Sonnich]

Just fast printing ad 0.32 layer height, 60mm/s print, 200mm/s move 205/55 degrees .

[Sonnich]

a small test of the XXI german sub :-)

I really want a large version of this one......a shame that the Robbe kit is gone :-( Cant find one for sale anyware.

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[SubtechRC]

http://www.precisionpattern.biz/type-xxi/

[Sonnich]

Thanks.....fantastic....just a bit on the small side :-)

[SubtechRC]

Its 1/48th scale & 63" long! It's nearly the same size at the Robbe kit.

[Sonnich]

haha....the robbe kit is 75"
I will try print one myself when I get around to it.

Im still messing around with my Arkmodel Dragon shark, also an unfinished robbe U-47, and I have the Revell skipjack in te mail, that I also would like to convert to RC

[Sonnich]

Turned out ok. I printed it only in one perimeter to print it quick, which makes it a bit fradgile. But it could be scaled up, and finished realy nicely i think
just need to print the small bits , rudder, guns, dive planes, props...:-)

The 3d STL file is not perfect. This sub was made out of a 3d drawing....not menat to be printed.....so it messes up a little during the conversion......cant get around that.....at least with my limited knowlege of how to make 3d models :-)

[Guest]

Those prints look very good.

You're much better off with modesty sized boats. Newcomers to the hobby often plumb for a biggun, only to find that lugging these things about, not to mention the rigmarole in getting them in and more importantly, out of the water is a right pain in the back, quite literally.

The price of batteries and running equipment increases exponentially with larger models too.

On the flipside going too small (e.g. a foot or less) brings its own complications, as a lot of stuff has to be custom made, and it all gets very fiddly. Depending upon the scale of the boat, a good size range is between 2-4 feet. That makes for easy handling and transport, yet still large enough to get at everything easily.

The smaller sized models are arguably more fun to operate,as they permit greater 3D movement in shallow ponds.

[cgbillb]

Not sure anyone reads this anymore, but worth a try, a question.
I have started to use my 3D Printer and making a stand for my U-2326.
What glue is best for the PLA ?
Thanks for any help
Bill

[JWLaRue]

Bill,

CA works very well.

-Jeff

[cgbillb]

Thank you Jeff
I used super glue and try to pull the stand apart, only broke on the parts, not the bonding area.
Thanks Again
Bill

[sgtmac1]

So, will PLA be a bad choice for a submarine? Can the pla be sealed with primer/surfacer and paint to avoid any degradation? Since I have just received the rcsubs VIRGINIA class in 1/72nd scale, I am looking for any and all information on this 3d printed sub and how to make it a good r/c sub. Thanks.

[bob the builder]

PLA is just fine in the water, particularly for our application. Yes, technically it absorbs water, and yes, it will degrade over time, but we're talking hundreds if not thousands of hours before you notice issues. Everything I've read thus far tells me that PLA, for our application, is perfectly fine. If you run your boat more than an hour or two a month on average, you're doing well. It would be decades before you noticed anything going on...

That's my story and I'm sticking to it (until proven wrong).

Bob

[feet wet]

If I am not mistaken, polyester F/G absorbs water as well. I vaguely remember being told that gel-kote was water proof, but that myth has been found to be full of pin holes as well. That said, when it comes to models that are exposed to the element for minutes at a time, the relavence of the concern disappears, unless you leave you boat in the water, tied to the the dock year round, year after year.