3D printed subs ?

[X Bubblehead]

Thanks.

Raise3D offers a streamlined, integrated 3D solution. They also write the slicer software - ideaMaker; it's free, intuitive, and receives regular updates --mostly from user inputs. It works on a variety of popular 3Dprinters.

Available for free here: https://www.raise3d.com/ideamaker/

Their camera, (used for monitoring prints in real-time) isn't useful for much more than letting you know if there's a problem. The printer build quality is very good, and the 7" touch screen monitor mirrors what you see in ideaMaker.

The build volume is massive. An entire boat with a 4" diameter can be printed in one (long) shot. 70-hour prints are effortless. I've been running one nearly non-stop since June for a wide variety of projects.

If the machine runs out of filament, it lowers the bed, and waits for a new roll, then picks right up where it left off. - The same applies to power interruptions. Raise3D has an identical, half-height printer that is $2000 cheaper. There is minimal vibration transmitted to the part being printed - the 1" leadscrews that lower the bed see to that. 50 micron accuracy ensures I can press-fit components with nearly invisible seams, and as I mentioned above, the barely visible layer lines require minimal sanding - the bane of smoothing 3D printed models.

While this printer is total overkill for casual 3D printing needs, for serious production work, it's a really good option.

Being able to design and print my own submarine models is very rewarding. I've got a MK-VIII SDV printing as I type. Total print time is around 50 hours, --depending on how much infill I use. It should be ready by Monday, just in time for my second version, which I'm modeling now.

It's nice to see more and more people getting involved with 3D printing; it has the potential to bring many new converts into the RC printing world. I love a good GRP hull as much as anyone, but the price (and limited availability of the boats I'm interested in) severely limits the number of prospective new members.

I use PLA for prototyping and fit-checks, but ASA has the properties required for a worry-free user experience.

Enjoy!

CC

[salmon]

X Bubblehead, wow nice printer.

[X Bubblehead]

If you print a lot of rectangles, this may be the ideal printer.

Organic shapes and rounded profiles? I don't think so. For a rounded hull with minimal print lines you want a bed that only moves in Z (up and down) not forwards and back like the majority of sub-$1000 hobbyist printers that are saturating the market. You want the part to remain as still as possible to get the highest quality and least amount of sanding post-print. Additionally, high-temp filaments like ASA and ABS require an enclosed volume for best results.

The old adage holds true with 3D printing: You get what you pay for.

I just ordered another one of these last week and it's ideal for submarine hulls: https://www.raise3d.com/pro2-plus/

CC

[cheapsub]

New model 3D printer from China.

https://youtu.be/2QOTD6AmqZI

Print you sub in one goes, may be until V3.5.

[coryhenry]

Interesting. Was ASA covered?

Yes it is.

[eckloss]

Interesting. Was ASA covered?

[coryhenry]

Erich, This has been done. Go to CNC Kitchen on YouTube. He does alot of tests of the different materials to include number of perimeters, line percentages and infill to show characteristics. Its a great channel. He also does reviews of printers and definitely has thing against Creality.

I just ordered a Prusa 3S, now to wait a few months for production. It will be waiting for me when I get back!

[eckloss]

ASA sounds very interesting. VERY interesting. A quick view of its characteristics state it prints best between 240 and 260 degrees. My Sindoh printer maxes out at 220. However, I've recently been eyeing the Creality CR-10 V2 printer, which is not as high tech and doesn't come with all the bells and whistles I enjoy now, but there are some advantages, such as a much larger build size. The Creality CR-10 V2 can reach 260 degrees according to its spec sheet. Sooooo do I drop the $500ish for a new printer? I dunno. But I think what I will do is cease printing the Astute in PLA+ and do a little experimenting. I'll print some 10x10x200cm bars, in ABS, PLA, PLA+, and perhaps even carbon fiber filament (I would never be able to print an entire boat with this, however, as it chews through nozzles quickly). I'll suspend each bar across an open span and place an equal amount of weight on each one. Expose them all to the sun and heat, and see if any of them warp, flex, etc.

-erich

[salmon]

That is cool! No, that is beyond cool...I can’t think of a correct word.. really look forward to an update on this! Both From Erich and Cory, thank you for trying new things!

[coryhenry]

Cory,


I was on a zoom call with a vendor (Formlabs) and we had a representative from the Navy share his 3D print lab, do you have access to that being deployed?

A study on materials would be really cool.

Unfortunately no access to the additive manufacturing labs here in the desert. I'm looking at some ABS special filament from Prusa called ASA, here is its description;

"ASA can be considered a true successor to ABS. Compared to ABS, it’s UV stable, it doesn’t suffer from shrinking so badly and the fumes produced are much less noticeable. ASA 3D prints are durable, tough and suitable for a wide range of applications. The solidification temperature is also higher compared to PLA and PETG, which gives objects printed from ASA an excellent temperature resistance – there are no signs of deformation up to temperatures near 93 °C. Thanks to all these properties, ASA is especially suitable to print objects meant for long-time outside use."

[eckloss]

I'm currently printing a British Astute in 1/72nd scale. Using PLA Plus by eSun. This is really one big experiment. From the research I've done and other's results I've seen, it appears that ABS is probably best for our purposes. In my case, my printer doesn't play too well with ABS. We shall see how much of a "plus" PLA+ really is. Supposedly it's more resistant to warping from heat and less susceptible to negative effects of water. Others claim the "plus" designation is just a bunch of fluff and it's still regular PLA with a couple irrelevant additives. Since I literally live down the street from the reflecting pond I can get a very good read on how everything will go when put in a real world situation. There will be a thread started once I've made some more printing progress and actually start assembly.

-erich

[salmon]

Cory,
3D printing sub hulls is coming along strong. Leaving a PLA or any plastic in the Las Vegas heat (110 degrees Fahrenheit this weekend) is hard on it. Bob had one in Florida that warped in the sun coming into his garage. We are all learning on this. Some have epoxied, others put a fiberglass layer inside. Many will use a primer with filler to remove the striations from printing. Some leave it as is and get the sub in the water.

I was on a zoom call with a vendor (Formlabs) and we had a representative from the Navy share his 3D print lab, do you have access to that being deployed?

A study on materials would be really cool.

[coryhenry]

I would like to revisit the types of filament used for hulls. Is ABS superior to PLA / PLA + for a sub hull? Anyone use more exotics or even epoxy to make a hull? Once you have the hull printed do you just sand down the lines or do you fill and then sand with body filler? I'm looking at purchasing a new printer and am looking at the Qidi Tech X max which will allow a wide range of options, thoughts?

[sam reichart]

Just a heads up, I've been working on making 3D files available for people who want to play with this method of building. My skills are not professional by any stretch, but I'm getting better as I go. British Astute and Captain America HydraSub are already available, with French Redoutable ready within a couple of weeks (prototype is on the printer as we speak). After that is Russian Typhoon.

Link to 3D page of Nautilus Drydocks

Thanks for sharing the link, Bob!

[salmon]

Bob,
That is really cool that you are doing that! It will help people get into our hobby. Thank you!
Peace,
Tom