Engel Akula II Build Questions

[Oldus Fartus]

Getting to the final assembly steps and had a couple of questions for anyone familiar with this kit:

1. Although the instructions don't say to, I put a flat on the motor shaft and the prop shaft to minimize the possibility that the shaft might spin in the coupler.
Would it be good to also use blue thread locker on the grub screws?

2. The control linkages are quite stiff to operate, especially for the dive planes. I put a little machine oil on the shafts and it's a little better but still pretty tight.
Will the stock servos still be able to drive the rudder and dive planes?
Anyone also have this issue?

Thanks,
Pete

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

1. Grub screws.
Just snug them up.
You are going to want to remove them at some point in time.
(I also put small flat spots on my motor and propeller shafts)

2. Linkage.
Disconnect from servos and move by hand to see if the rod is tight in the guide.
If so, clean up the rod or the through bushing to get the shaft to move more freely.

If the shafts move easily, then check the servo horn where it passes through the frame plastic.
Front end of control rod at the servos.
I had to open the hole in the frame just a little to get the horn and the connector part to pass through with out touching.

[Oldus Fartus]

I think I see the problem. The pushrods are going through the rubber boot bushings on an angle.
If I lift up the servo ends and they are straight through the bushings there is no friction.
My only hope is that when I connect the pushrods to the servo arms they will be straight through the bushings.
Pete

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Take your time and you can bend the control rods at the servo end but I did not find it necessary to bend them.

[salmon]

Pete,
Ralph has already given some good advice. I have been recently putting a channel in and not making the whole end flat. This way if it does slip, it will not come all the way off.

Oil can gum up in time. Dirt and schmutz can mix with that oil and cause more issues later on the plane bushings. I do not use oil there. Teeming our the hole or lightly polish or sand down the plane shaft. Following what Ralph said by pushing it manually , you will tell if it is the planes or other area.

[Oldus Fartus]

Prop Rotation?

I raced FE and we used LH rotation since we raced CW and we used prop torque and prop walk to help the boat turn to the right...but it looks like Engel Akula II is provided with a RH rotation prop.
Is this correct?
Thanks

[JWLaRue]

Based on what I can see on the Engel website, that is correct.....right-hand rotation.

-Jeff

[Oldus Fartus]

Yes, I found a reference on the website and it is indeed supposed to be RH rotation.

Final step is to join the tail section to the TechRack...looks like a challenge!

Thanks,
Pete

[Oldus Fartus]

Getting Close!

Next up add the weights, leak test and trim...seems like the best way to load the TechRack into the hull is vertically...less side-to-side miss-alignment in and out.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

In practice at the lake, I slide the teck rack in about 4" and then I can lever the rack to slide over the frames.
No a big deal.

Holding the hull vertically increases the unintentional removal of the bow planes.
Yep I have done that.
Same with bumping the lake edge.
Bow planes pop right off. (the fix is to be more careful when handling the hull and when near the lake edge or other obsticals)

I have removed the bow planes so many times, I built a wooden frame that the hull sits in that holds the bow planes in plane and level for reatachment.

http://www.cliffhangershideout.com/Akula/magnets11.jpg

[Oldus Fartus]

In practice at the lake, I slide the teck rack in about 4" and then I can lever the rack to slide over the frames.
No a big deal.

Holding the hull vertically increases the unintentional removal of the bow planes.
Yep I have done that.
Same with bumping the lake edge.
Bow planes pop right off. (the fix is to be more careful when handling the hull and when near the lake edge or other obsticals)

I have removed the bow planes so many times, I built a wooden frame that the hull sits in that holds the bow planes in plane and level for reatachment.
http://www.cliffhangershideout.com/Akula/magnets11.jpg

Probably when I get the ballast in place, the TechRack will slide in a little easier horizontally...I'll be careful!

[Oldus Fartus]

OK, got the ballast in place, performed the leak test (dry and wet).

Tested in our pool and after 4 successful dives the ballast tank (with Hall Sensor) stopped working in the "Empty" position...didn't have to go swimming...LOL.

Any thoughts as to where to start to trouble shoot?

I have a spare receiver and that's the easiest component to swap out, but the electronics and switches for the ballast tank are really buried and will require major disassembly!

Guess it could also be the aux. channel on my Futaba 9C too...

[JWLaRue]

A couple of things come to mind:

• does the battery have a reasonable charge level? The CTS board has a low voltage cut off that forces the boat to surface if the battery voltage drops too far,
• are all the CTS board connections still in place and tight? (I've found that those connectors that slide onto the microswitch contacts need to be slightly tightened up by squeezing them with pliers before putting them on)
• since you mentioned an "aux" channel, what happens if you temporarily use a different channel?
• can you turn the large, final drive gear by hand or is it jammed?

Let us know what you find!

-Jeff

[Oldus Fartus]

Looks like the CTS low voltage cutoff was triggered and the tank piston moved to the empty position and stopped.

All is good

[JWLaRue]

Excellent!

-Jeff