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You're 110% correct, Tom. Now's
You're 110% correct, Tom. Now's the time for general ideas. And I've got some.
First the anchor placement. And that's an easy one. Just leave a square hole in the hull sides (port and starboard), at the point the anchor is located. Both holes would be the same size. The cast two additional parts. One, a square planking plate and a second piece with the anchor well in it. then You could put the well on the side you wanted and blank off the other side. As said, an easy fix.
Next would be, the bow buoyancy tank, limber holes. There were two types, square and half-round. They were the same height and width. Revell could cast in the round holes and a light raised line, locating the square holes. If the modeler wants the half-round sand off the line. If the square holes are wanted, file out to the lines.
Or they could cast the holes half round, when viewed from the out side and recessed square when viewed from the inside. Less plastic needed for the part and a simple matter of removing round lip. It's always easier to remove than to add.
The main limber holes are another matter. With the number of different patterns, it'd be better to just provide all limber holes, for all patterns, as slightly raised lines. Sand off what you don't need. And, if you want, drill out what's left.
The nice thing about US boats is, the welded hull. No rivets to worry about. And, since Revell (AG) is going to do the actual molds, I don't think, the screws, will be a problem.
Well, that's my two cents. How 'bout the rest of you? Most of you are lot sharper than I am, let's hear from you. Speak now, or suffer later. The more we kibitz now, the better the model we'll lay our money down for, later.
Mike Keating
You're 110% correct, Tom. Now's the time for general ideas. And I've got some.
First the anchor placement. And that's an easy one. Just leave a square hole in the hull sides (port and starboard), at the point the anchor is located. Both holes would be the same size. The cast two additional parts. One, a square planking plate and a second piece with the anchor well in it. then You could put the well on the side you wanted and blank off the other side. As said, an easy fix.
Next would be, the bow buoyancy tank, limber holes. There were two types, square and half-round. They were the same height and width. Revell could cast in the round holes and a light raised line, locating the square holes. If the modeler wants the half-round sand off the line. If the square holes are wanted, file out to the lines.
Or they could cast the holes half round, when viewed from the out side and recessed square when viewed from the inside. Less plastic needed for the part and a simple matter of removing round lip. It's always easier to remove than to add.
The main limber holes are another matter. With the number of different patterns, it'd be better to just provide all limber holes, for all patterns, as slightly raised lines. Sand off what you don't need. And, if you want, drill out what's left.
The nice thing about US boats is, the welded hull. No rivets to worry about. And, since Revell (AG) is going to do the actual molds, I don't think, the screws, will be a problem.
Well, that's my two cents. How 'bout the rest of you? Most of you are lot sharper than I am, let's hear from you. Speak now, or suffer later. The more we kibitz now, the better the model we'll lay our money down for, later.
Mike Keating
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