1/144 scale yasen class sub

[JWLaRue]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Earlier you mentioned that you have an ESC...what kind do you have? Did it come with any instructions?

In all cases that I am aware of, you need to provide the ESC with a direct battery connection at the voltage you intend to run the motor(s). Some ESCs have a 'battery eliminator' circuit which can be used to provide power to the receiver through the normal servo 3-wire control connection between ESC and receiver....thus eliminating the receiver-only battery.

If you are not supplying power to the ESC directly you would see the behavior that you have described.

-Jeff

[scott t]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Something you menttioned about putting the piston inside the dry space concerns me if using a caulk tube since it is
Quite flexible. As the air pressure rises it might push in the walls of the tube. Are you planning on motorizing the piston or
pumping water in to move the piston? I saw a water soaker the grandkids had that had a piston with double o-rings that might be converted to a ballast tank.

Scott t

[JWLaRue]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

I have a suggestion and a question for you...

If you tell us roughly where you are located, we can probably hook you up with one or more folks who have built and are running r/c subs. Being able to see a working example and then point & ask questions can be very helpful.

So where are you? (roughly)

-Jeff

[christian1944]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Yes I tried hooking up a second battery and it worked. I also plan to motorize the piston. I live in guntersville,Alabama. That is in the u.s.

[Rogue Sub]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Check out my download section and read some of the articles. You will find some of the answers you are looking for including simple wire diagrams

http://www.roguesubworks.com/Downloads.html

[Rogue Sub]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

The closest person I know Is Jim Henson and he is 2hr away

[Guest]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Something you menttioned about putting the piston inside the dry space concerns me if using a caulk tube since it is
Quite flexible. As the air pressure rises it might push in the walls of the tube. Are you planning on motorizing the piston or
pumping water in to move the piston? I saw a water soaker the grandkids had that had a piston with double o-rings that might be converted to a ballast tank.

Scott t

The air pressure inside the sub should only rise by a pound or two, plus the tube will be filled with water which will make it uncompressible anyway. Caulking tubes have a big advantage in that the internal diameter exhibits high tolerance with an excellent finish. Large syringes are another possibility, and remove the need to make a new piston.

[christian1944]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

How do i seal the pushrods and motor shaft?

[JWLaRue]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

A very common method is to use pushrod seals like these found at Mike's Subworks:

http://www.mikessubworks.com/page1.html

-Jeff

[Guest]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Will those seals work with a sytem that pressurizes the inside of the cylinder? I think you need seals with a spring on (like simmerrings) or use o-rings. Norbert Bruggen supplies o-ring glanded pushrod seals

[tsenecal]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Mike's seals use either an o-ring or a quad-ring inside the brass fixture, i don't remember which...

but, I have used the Mike's Subworks seals on my subs for years now... all of which use either an rcabs style bladder or an engel piston tank. no issues with water leakage at all.

and not just for pushrods, but for propeller shafts as well.

[Rogue Sub]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Mikes seal use a cup seal. I also have single print and quad ring seals with adjustable compression.

[christian1944]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Well my plans on my paper mâché hull didn't exactly work, but I had the idea of making the hull out of wood. I could make it out of cypress which will not rot or deteriorate since it grows in the swamps. I could cut out circles of wood and make them so that they get smaller in size so that I can take strips of cypress and glue them to it to for a hull. For the nose of the sub I would make a nose cone that is a solid piece of wood that is tapered and round to for a nose. (Same process for the nose cone as on an airplane.) obviously the strips are going to have a gap between them because they are rectangular and a hull is round. I can fill the cracks with wood putty. After it is done I could paint the outside of this wooden hull and then seal the outside and inside. Do you think that this would work for a hull or do I need to try a different approach? With many Thanks, Christian.

[Guest]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Plenty of people have made model submarines from wood, however all the ones I've seen do start to deteriorate after some use, and require persistent maintenance to maintain a nice look.

The wood you mention may be waterproof, but the adhesives and paint sticking to it may de laminate more readily from a wooden surface than a plastic one. Submarines are far more demanding of materials than surface vessels, as they have water pressure to deal with, and are completely enveloped in water when submerged

I would say it's essential to line the inside and outside of the hull with a layer of glass and resin, preferably epoxy resin as it's thinner and more sturdy than polyester. Resin used on its own will be insufficient, as it has little tensile strength, and with the movement in all the pieces, it will fracture and let in water.

The other downside to using wood, is that you need to use fairly thick cross section of material when compared with say glass fibre, this means lots of displacement- which in turn leads to a heavier boat and bigger ballast tanks.

So plastic is a much better option, wood can be used, but just be aware of the points raised above.

[christian1944]

Re: 1/144 scale yasen class sub

Well I'll try with the wood then if that doesn't work then I will get some foam and Fiberglas sheets and resin them around the foam. But I've gone to great lengths to figure out if a wood hull will work. The wood I'm cypress which I've talked about before, but after I paint and etch the outside of the hull I will put a coating of resin on both the outside and inside. We use this resin for table tops at our wood shop andot has to be heated and reheated but the finished look it almost looks like glass and water will not affect it. Now I do realize what you are saying about it being heavy but most of my wtc will be ballast to try and compensate for the weight of the hull. Also the hull will be about 1/8 th thick which will be enough for me to mold and shape, but enough for it to be durable and lasting. But I will keep a plastic or resin type hull in mind. Thanks for the help and advice. It is much appreciated.