Attention all registered users. The new forum upgrade requires you to reset your password as you logon for the first time.
To reset your password choose this option that is displayed when you attempted to login with your username: "Forgotten your password? Click here!"
You will be sent an e-mail to the address that is associated with your forum account. Follow the simple directions to reset your password.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I have made some advancement on the tower floor. Ok, I got side tracked! Expect a alot of that lol.
As it comes in the kit, the tower has a full fiberglass floor in wintergarden area and open in the front of the tower. I started by making a 1/8" thick floor for the front of tower and align with the existing rear floor
Here I have made a superficial cut allowing the brass decking to slip into position inside the tower. Note][/url]\
After everhthing is in position, I removed the decking and traced a structural bracing layout from the plans. Next I transfered that to the tower decking and used again used the Dremel tool to remove all material not required.
This will give the decking support while making it possible to see thru the decking and add to the realism I am hoping to achieve.
Now I hope to work on the dive planes and rudders. If I don't get side tracked again.
The bow drive planes are pretty much a straight forward affair. Even for someone who has never done this before. Bob gives you the location of the plane's control rod and from there it is a measure, mark, re-measure, measure again and drill.
I decided to run a 1/4-28 die nut on the post. This allows them plane to be captured with two 1/4" stainless washers and nyloc nuts inside the hull.
Next I moved to the rear of the boat. The instructions, supplied with the kit, gives a full scale template to locate the hydro-plane veins.
This template made the task at hand easier but I found a bit of movement was required to get the center of the pivot on the planes aligned with the hull plane that is there. The area for the saddle to fit was removed with a small hand saw. I then ground down the inside of the hull and inserted a machined piece of aluminum for the saddle to sit on. This aluminum piece was later drilled and tapped to accept a countersunk 44-40 bolt.
Initally I had a hard time with the skeg braceing.
I am realizing I do not know all the correct nautical terms for these parts so please feel free to correct me.
I started using a small butane torch but later realized I was overheating the skeg and not getting the required results.
I finally tried using a 2500 watt soldering gun and as they would say, The rest is history.
Since I wanted everything able to be unbolted for painting later, and given the great detail that Bob has provided on this hull, I thought it would be best to attach the front leg of the skeg to a plate on the hull. This plane is attached to a piece of brass tubing tapped to 44-40 and secured from inside the hull. Rivet detail was added using 30 min epoxy and a straight pin ground to a flat end.
On the other end two pieces of brass was oiled and fit over the end of the rudders and then soldered to the skeg's rear legs. I was pretty pleased with the results.
The stuffing boxes (why are these called stuffing boxes? are they to be stuffed with grease or something?) were slipped over the propeller shafts and enought material removed from the hull so they would be in no bind. They were wrapped with making tape that was coated car wax. The wax serves as a release agent so the stuffing boxes can be removed. I will build a fiberglass cover over these soon.
Ok, that's it for now. Here is the rear. I still have to put the control arms inside the hull but that will be a bit later as well.
Ok, off on a tangent again lol.
Some of the crew was down today taking a look around.
Man there are a ton of flooding holes to be cut in this hull! While in the process of building the rear hydro-planes it was apparent I needed to add some now. This was less than fun!!!
I have decided I will view flooding holes like medicine, I'll get them all but a little dose at a time.
I machined two templates from .063" mild steel.
The template can be held in place with clamps while you drill and remove the in-between material with a dremel tool.
I now have the main hatch operational. My plan is to have the scopes and hatch work together. When the command to dive is given, I would like the scopes to raise and the hatch to close and when the command to surface is given, they would reverse.
If anyone has tried this or have any input, I am all ears. I am giving thought to using a small WTC inside the tower or a small retactable landing gear air cylinder working with a canterlever system inside the tower. Still a lot of thinking to be done.
The hindge is a small piece of square brass solder to the decking with a 1/16" brass pin running thru it and then the arms. The arms are contained by a drop of Marine Tex on each end. The brass arms (supplied in the OTW kit) are glued to the hatch with clear Marine Goop.
I did not do any detail work to the inside of the hatch because I plan to use the center hole for the clevis attachment point.
The ladder was a late night "What the hell" idea. Not sure if it will stay at this point.
Sub Culture,
I actually have purchased a good brand of automotive etching primer for the brass parts.
I have made everything removable for painting so I will first run the brass parts thru the bead blast cabnet to give them some tooth.
Thanks for the reminder my friend
Have been out of town on business but left some Marine Tex curing while I was gone.
I don't know what this front feature was for on the real boat (feel free to educate me here) and while the detail on this hull is awesome, this is one feature that is not included in the original detail but one I thought should be incorporated.
I did not take a "before picture" but the top of the hull is flat and comes to a point. I cut some of the brass deck off just in front of the row of rivets that corrosponed with pictures I had to reference.
I then built up the entire area with Marine Tex and inserted the attachment cleat in position and left to cure for several days.
After returning home, It took only a short time to file/sand the Marine Tex into the desired shape and cover with some sandable primer. I think this detail really stands out and I am pleased with the results.
I have just received my OTW Type 7, I have posted a want add in sub swap for anyone wishing to donate drainage hole templates. Would you be willing to lend them to me, or I will purchase from you, I will send shiping charges.
With a little progress, I thought an update would be in order.
I have decided it will take quite some time to get all those flooding slots in the hull, so I will eat that elephant one bit at a time . Mostly after the weather gets a bit warmer.
In the meantime, I made a sleeve/clevis configuration for the front dive planes from .125" brass tubing. I bought two rc airplane clevis' and cut the brass bushings away. Then soldered them in place at the end of the main tube. I made a brass clevis and soldered in in position between the two collars. I ground flats on both of the dive plane rods so the clevis screw would not slip.
Here the clevis is in position. I left some tolerance so it can be oriented a bit off-center is needed.
I decided to dabble with a bit of detail. I found that I was missing the main periscope shear in my kit. An email to Bob @ OTW yielded a quick phone call and one was rapidly on its way. Bob is a great guy and he certainly has the customers happiness at heart. Thanks Bob!
Upon receiving the perisope, I drilled out the center and glued in a brass tube. This tube works as a sleeve for the 5/32" aluminum tubing (that the periscope head is glued into). I use this method because I plan to have the periscope raise and lower via the transmitter so it must move feely.
Next I followed the direction from Acurate Armor and OTW and attached all the steps, scopes and other pieces that it needed.
I did the same for the Uzzo.
For whatever reason, I decided to spend some time with the arnament. I put together the deck gun as well as the wintergarden machine gun. Man this things sure come with a lot of tiny parts . I had to make use of a magnifying glass head set. In the end, It all came out ok. I dusted the brass decking with a coat of automotive etching primer.
I now have the WTC in position temporarily and the prop shafts hooked to the motors via single universal joints. I post some pics of this later.
I am working on the design for two items. I will post pics as soon as there is something worth seeing.
1. Working periscopes:
I am using a small air cyclinder commonly used on rc aircraft and stainless wire running over a wheel to move the copes up and down.
2. Working torpedos:
I have been sourcing material for the torpedo and the torpedo tube but have experienced a hard time finding a source for brass that meets my size needs. So, I thought I would share my new found source in case any of you are have a similar problem.
I found exactly what I was looking for here http://www.smallparts.com/?ie=UTF8&pf_r ... f_rd_t=101
They seem to have a large selection of brass and aluminum for such things as modeling needs.
Tweet
[/url]\
Comment