OTW Type VII-U-82 Build

[mickm]

Hi guys,
I am in the beginning stages of my first rc submarine project, an OTW Type VII.

I have read and re-read many times the articles by both Jeff LaRue and Don Prince.
I am sure there have been many more who have successfully built this boat so I was hoping I could get some feedback/picutes as to how you handeled the decking attachment, allowing for retrieval of the WTC.

I am using OTW's WTC so this is the first hugh hurdle I have to address.

Once I have gotten this project far enough to show developments, I plan to do a build thread.

I am sure most of you will be amused (to the point of laughter) so maybe we can have fun together.

I welcome any and all feedback.

Cheers!
Mickm

[JWLaRue]

Hi Mick!,

Do you (still?) have

Hi Mick!,

Do you (still?) have the photos showing how I mounted my dive module in the hull and what I did to gain access to the module?

-Jeff

[mickm]

Hi Jeff,
I have one photo

Hi Jeff,
I have one photo showing the dive module in the hull with the main transverse support in place but that is all I have.
If you have pics showing how you gained access to the dive module or anything related, I would love to see them. All help is appreciated.

I assume you gained addional strength since you used stainless over brass decking?

Cheers!
Mickm

[JWLaRue]

Sure...here are a few more

Sure...here are a few more photos......

This photo shows the skeleton frame that I made to do two things: ensure that the shape of the casing was correct and to provide support for the deck gun and conning tower.



Note that this skeleton piece as well as the others seen in the next two photos are attached beneath the hull lip.

This next photo pretty much shows a bow to stern view of the set of braces used to ensure the casing was correctly positioned in terms of width.



All of these pieces are held into place with 2-56 flat head machine screws that are countersunk into the hull lip. The deck sections sit on top of the molded in hull lip. In order to represent the correct look of the prototype, I glued 0.030" by 0.060" styrene strips along the upper edge of the casing. The goal was to replicate the look of the area where the edge of the deck met the casing. The casing sticks up beyond the deck...sort of like a small curb. The next photo shows a how the styrene strips look prior to finishing and painting.



I specifically used a stainless steel deck as it does not need any support beneath it except where the conning tower and deck gun are located.

To gain access to the dive module, I remove the deck sections and then these braces. The dive module is then inserted/removed through the larger opening area of the deck gun.

Note that there are *no* internal bulkheads....none are necessary if these horizontal braces are used. (the one 'exception' is a very small 1/4-sized bulkhead that only serves as the foundation for the forward end of the prop shafts. The dive module sits on four rubber pads glued to the inner bottom of the saddle tanks.

As might now be inferred, all six deck sections are removable. Here are two photos showing some of the ways that the deck was held into place.





Finally, a photo showing the extreme bow where I used a piece of my favorite material (G-10) to fix a very minor skew in the bow. It also served as the anchor for the capstan and forward set of bollards.



Hope these photos help. Please feel free to ask any questions that might come up,

-Jeff

[mickm]

Hi Jeff,
Would you mind emailing

Hi Jeff,
Would you mind emailing these to me? I can't get them to open any larger for some reason. These look very good and I would like to get a closer look at the details.
Thanks buddy,
Mickm

[JWLaRue]

Gladly........coming right up.....

-Jeff

Gladly........coming right up.....

-Jeff

[mickm]

Thanks for the pictures Jeff.

Thanks for the pictures Jeff.
I have made some progress so I will begin my build posting.

I will be building my boat after the U-82. The U-82was a Type VII-c that wore a camo paint scheme which I like.




Since this is my first rc submarine build as well as my first build thread, I invite any and all to please feel free to add input anywhere at anytime.

I am hoping to do this thread for those (like myself) who has never built an rc submarine because they didn't understand how all of this works and it sorta over-whelmed them.

I am certain I will be taking different approaches than some/most of you would/have in different areas. I am also prepared to have to back up and take the road you have proven to be the best.

At any rate, let's have fun.

At this point I have digitized the brass decking, the hull and the conning tower.



I have used the digitized model to first design the hull/boat stand that will be used to control the straightness of the hull during the construction phase. This stand will be used as the display stand when the boat is completed.





The next step is to cover with some min wax and lacquer. I am really just doing this to perserve the wood during the constuction of the boat.

More to come soon...
Cheers!

[tincanrider]

OTW type VII

I also have the type VII, but you are a lot farther along than I, I am still looking at all the parts, mumbling what did I get my self into. Like your stand, any info on diamensions, would like to build one, do you or JEFF have any photos of the lower/underside of the hull showing drain holes? Jeff, do you have a photo of the mounting pads for the WTC.
Keith

[JWLaRue]

Hi Keith,

I drilled a series

Hi Keith,

I drilled a series of round holes along the center, middle of the keel. The only other lower hull openings were the series of rectangular openings along the underside of the saddle tanks.

The pads that I used for the dive module are really nothing more that one-inch square rubber about 1/4-inch thick. Since I used the OTW dive module which is 110mm (4.4-inches) in diameter, that was all required to place the top of the cylinder right at the surfaced waterline.

-Jeff

[tincanrider]

OTW

Hi Jeff.
OK you two are trying to confusse me. on mickm phot it shows holes cut in lower saddle tank BUT on the OTW dwg it states. none functional details of flooding vent " do not cut out" so cut them out any way?
keith.
p/s change of subject. the old TEHACHAPI train station will be rebuilt as per original dwg.

[mickm]

Tincanrider,
I would be glad to

Tincanrider,
I would be glad to send you a set of prints to build the cradle. Send me an email to mike@superlift.com and I'll get them out to you ASAP in .pdf format.
As for the holes in the hull. Like Jeff, I plan to drill a series of holes in the kiel. I plan to add pegs to the four stardards of the cradle that will fit in side these holes.
If you reference the disc of photos of Jeff's boat (that came with your hull) you will notice he removed the material from these square areas.

Cheers!
Mickm

[JWLaRue]

Re: OTW

Hi Jeff.
OK you two are trying to confusse me. on mickm phot it shows holes cut in lower saddle tank BUT on the OTW dwg it states. none functional details of flooding vent " do not cut out" so cut them out any way?.

I believe that the notation on the OTW drawing was made back when most folks build watertight boxes directly into the hull. In which case, you would not want to cut out those saddle tank openings. If you are using some form of cylindrical dive module, then I do recommend cutting them out as it allows water to flow more freely.

-Jeff

[tincanrider]

OTW

Jeff.
I purchased my OTW kit & WTC about 4 years ago, so I guess I have old info. Keith

[JWLaRue]

I am not aware that

I am not aware that there has been an update to the plan sheet.

-Jeff

[mickm]

I purchased my OTW around

I purchased my OTW around 6 months ago and my instructions state the same as your Tincanrider.

Cheers!
Mickm