My Seaview Build

[bigdave]

Hi All,
I am doing a bit of work on my Seaview drive system and cylinder so I thought I would start a build thread. Let me just start by saying that this is a GREAT kit!!
The quality is excellent and like the Revell Gato it is almost like it was designed for R/C in mind.

When we first heard about the kit Crazy Ivan and I discussed how we might go about adding some real thrust to the stock lifeless nacelles.
We both thought a single Pump Jet mounted inside of the hull ducted out the nacells would be a good way to go.
David Merriman has done an excellent job in making two smaller impellers that fit inside of the nacells. I almost decided to go this route but I love to experiment.
Then when CI showed me his impeller masters he had made I offered to make molds for them. CI said I was going to suggest the same thing.
Now we had the PPJ as we call it. (Procthenko Pump Jet)
I then decided to start drawing up some different plans of attack.

Till I actually had a kit this was all I could do.
Now I have started and just finished testing of my PPJ-TD I call it. (PPJ-Thrust Director) I made a master and molded up the body and used ¾” OD thin wall Lexan tube for the ducts. It took a while to get all the angles right and the TD to fit in the stern section.
I just got through testing the PPJ-TD today on a test rig I made up. Using a 540 size low speed high wind motor. The current draw was very low and you can see it pushes a lot of water.
I thought that using a single motor with no gear box, high torque, and low RPM would result in low current draw and I was correct. Nice and quiet too.
I am still not sure how I will open the hull or build the cylinder but I have a few ideas.
CI will be doing a build as well and has some different ideas as to how he will do it. Here are a few photos of the PPJ-TD. BD.

[bigdave]

Here is the almost finished

Here is the almost finished power unit. You see the intake the PPJ and the thrust director. The thrust director will be permanently mounted in the hull. The intake and PPJ will be removable. BD.

[anonymous]

I for one am very

I for one am very impressed with this approach BD. This is a lot like and EDF unit for RC jets. And it takes the need away for the two motors making the whole thing very simple. And it has the extra cool factor as well.

Well done!

My kit should be on the way soon. Keep at it.

Steve

[bigdave]

Thanks Steve. http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_biggrin.gif
Well

Thanks Steve.
Well the SPU (Seaview Power Unit) is done and tested.
Using a 5000 RPM 540 low speed 6Volt motor it only draws about 1 Amp and gives great thrust. Even my reverse thrust idea worked.
The SPU pulls in its water from a grate in the bottom of the hull and the intake duct is at a 45 degree angle. I was hoping when the motor was reversed the water exiting backwards at the 45 degree angle would tend to add some brakes and a slow reverse. Testing seems to prove this is the case.
Any braking and reverse is better than none at all.
You can also see in the photos how I cut the upper rear section to gain enough access to the SPU. Once fitted and painted it will be hardly noticeable. The top cut will be covered by the deck inserts as well.
I am still not sure how I will gain main access to the hull. Before I received the kit I was thinking about going in through the bottom like I saw Rick Tesky do with one of his excellent Seaview kits. Then I saw how David Merriman opened his up and that worked out great too. Then I was talking to my cousin Donnie as he had a Seaview kit and he suggested opening the hull at its already supplied center slip flange.
Like a bayonet ring without the ring.
I kind of like this idea as no cutting would be required, and I am all for no hull cutting.
Now I just need to make a choice. BD.

[anonymous]

Dave I have to agree.

Dave I have to agree. No cutting. Looks very well thought out to me.

Now are you going to make a new cylinder just for this boat or will one we already have of yours work?

Great progress. Great idea. The purest rivet counting go nowheres may not like that intake on the bottom. It doesn't bother me one bit if it means having and easy build and a very practical running RC model. And I'm sure I'll have plenty to agree with me.

Keep going BD. This went great with my morning tea!

Steve

[bigdave]

I am glad you enjoyed

I am glad you enjoyed the post with your tea.
I don't have any cylinders now that would run this boat. It will be a new design made just for the Seaview.
I don't know if you remember about a year ago I was talking to you about a hybrid ballast system I was working on and I sent you some drawings. It is similar to the system Mike is selling now but with a different twist. This may be a good hull to try it out in. We will see. BD.

[anonymous]

Yes I do. Good thinking

Yes I do. Good thinking BD.

Steve

[scott t]

http://www.subcommittee.com/forum/icon_eek.gif Are you sure you

Are you sure you guys are not doing heart transplants.
Looks like a artifical heart. Keep up the good work.

-Scott

[anonymous]

Ahahaha! I'm not doing a

Ahahaha! I'm not doing a thing here except edging BD on Scott. BD is the surgeon!

Steve

[bigdave]

Well it is a pump,

Well it is a pump, and the heart of the propulsion system. BD.

[redboat219]

Hybrid Ballast

Can you share with us that Hybrid Ballast System you discussed with Steve.

[bigdave]

I will post something when

I will post something when I have worked with the idea more. Right now most of it is in my head.

I have an update on the motor for the Seaview. I just tested the one I will use as it was received today. I am very happy and it should work out fine. Great thrust and only 2.2 Amps draw at 7.2 Volts at full power. BD.

[bigdave]

I was able to get

I was able to get a few more hours on the Seaview.
I have the rear power section designed and built.
This is housed in a 2.25 x 5" section. It is made up of the motor, two servos, and ESC. These are all mounted to and remove with the rear end cap. You can see there are very few parts. I like to keep it simple (KISS). The entire section can be broken down in less than one minute. The next section will be the ballast section and it will be about 12" long. Then the control section which is about another 5". This will give a total length of about 22". All designs subject to change without notice!! BD.

[bigdave]

I have gotten some more

I have gotten some more work done on the cylinder. All of the components in the control section mount to the brass assembly. The long brass tube passes the wires from the control section to the power section through the ballast section. BD.

[redboat219]

Is that a scratchbuilt valve

Is that a scratchbuilt valve is see there?