Submarine hardware

[koeze]

I keep seeing references pop up regarding electronics I don't know. So I thought it mey be a good thing to make a new post introducing what I believe is a whole new range of possibilities.

Personally I have a depth/attitute controller from Nils Canditt. I haven't tested it yet but from what I have heard it is a great piece of work. I also have a DIY controller from Brüggen that I never got to work and in the course of time I lost the schematic to it so I probably never will.

I hear things about proportional ballast tank controllers and trim tank controllers maybe it's good to explain what is around and where to get it.

The same applies to hardware.
The compressors Lothar uses in his subs are definitivly a different league that the el cheapo car tire compressors. What other hardware is being used in submarine models that may not be widely known and where can it be bought.

Erik Jan

[u-178]

sorry

sorry

[gotland]

Dear Koeze,

I have to agree

[color=#000000]Dear Koeze,

I have to agree to U178. Most things You need for an easy sub and You cannot buy in Your local hobby-shop are on his picture.

The depth/attitute controller on the picture (right) is from Markus Rieger. This from Nils Canditt You have is as great working as this on the picture. I used them in 4 or 5 of my boats and was always VERY happy with them.

This from Markus is just an improved design.

The two other parts are proportional piston-tank controllers and at the moment state of the Art over here. The controller makes the piston tank as a servo-tank. That means, when You put the slider on the transmitter to 50%, the piston goes to 50%. the same at 60% and so on. On every place You want, just like a servo. It's working with a magnetic sensor which counts the turns of the main teeth-wheel. (see the magnets in U178's Stint thread).

A full proportional tank is well for a trimming system.
This circuits here shown have some more features]

[mylo]

Very informative. Thank you.

U-178, very

Very informative. Thank you.

U-178, very good idea posting a thread for guys to give their opinions on "What's Hot, what's not", based on their own experiences with the stuff. As for apologizing for a language barrier, I know what it's like to learn a second language, it's not easy. I commend anybody who tries to communicate in a language that is not of their native tongue. I sincerely doubt you will find anybody that is going to ridicule you in this group. Not to mention, your English is a lot better than my (whatever your first language is).

Gotland, I find the information you mentioned on the piston tank controllers VEEERRY interesting.

Myles.

[mylo]

That assembly with the long

That assembly with the long shaft in it, is that a prop shaft being driven through a belt drive reduction ? If so, what's the reduction ratio ? I'm doing some research on what the actual prop shaft rpm speeds were for a type VII and want to mimic that. A reduction gear is obviously going to be required. I'm wondering how much reduction and what the best method to do that is. I'm leaning towards belt reduction, much like in the photo (if that is what that is......if it isn't, just stop laughing and disregard my comment).

Very nice looking unit.

Myles.

[u-178]

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[koeze]

Thank you for the informative

Thank you for the informative replies. They have raised a couple more.

@U-178
Why do you use a geared motor. I always try to find a nice low rpm motor for direct drive. Saves a lot of work and is even more quiet. The graupner 900BB Torque or even the Robbe Power 1000 are great for large boats. They haul around a big prop with no problems. Even a simple car radiator motor can be used (almost free at any junk yard). Check out the build of Bob the Builder's Nautilus. He uses a radiator motor for his prop and was very positive about it.

How do you program that ballast tank controller. I mean the number of revolutions is different for each tank so how does it know how many pulses equals a certain piston position. Can you give an idea of the prices for these nice goodies and who to contact if I'd like to buy something.

What kind of motor and reduction do you use for the tanks.

Oh and by the way. We are an international bunch of submarine freaks. I don't think anybody will have any problems with your English and if they do let them try posting in German and see what they come up with.

Erik Jan

[u-178]

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[gotland]

And to answer the programming

And to answer the programming question.....

The circuit counts one time at the beginning the revolutions from one end switcher to the other one. Than there is a little program-switch (or a jumper) and the electronic knows for the rest of the life it's tank. If You change the tank, you just do again the program-step. It's easy, there are no tools needed and no computer.

When the boat is switched on, the tank runs to the empty-end-switcher and starts counting. So there is always the right "zero-point".

The motors Gerd uses (Faulhaber) have a great rate of efficiancy. that's the reason.

I use Dunker-Motors for bigger boats. But a car fan motor is also ansolutly ok. Today we build these gears to get a perfect relation between Prop and motor....sometimes it's an experiment....

Gotland

[u-178]

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[jsl]

Gerhard,

Can you mail me that

Gerhard,

Can you mail me that info on Markus' electronics?

My mail program tell me that the mail address you listed does not exist.

[koeze]

I think it should be

I think it should be deepseasystems@arcor.de.

Erik Jan

[u-178]

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[Guest]

Hi Gerhard,

I'm interested in obtaining

Hi Gerhard,

I'm interested in obtaining some Airzet seals for my own piston tanks.

Do you have a code or order number for these?

Same as this perhaps?

http://www.simritna.com/catalog....eal.htm


BTW, your email is coming up as undeliverable.

Thanks

Andrew



Edited By Sub culture on 1131026808

[u-178]

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