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The wall thicknesses are 1/8th of an inch and 1/16th of an inch. I have BigDave's Kilo WTC which is 1/8th and that sucker is thick. For these little subs which should never go beyond 10' in a swimming pool, I think 1/16th should be more than sufficient.
Like I said my biggest issue will be getting someone to cast the end caps for them. Big Dave's end caps with O-rings are excellent so I hope to be able to convince him to make some for me seeing as some of the sizes are the same.
I am surprised no one has been building micro-WTC kits for doing these conversions.
The major issue I see with these ultra-small WTCs is the seals for the servo rods and prop shaft. Does anyone have any ideas about tiny seals that would be appropriate?
I also want to avoid running the motor wet if possible as these subs are destined to do battle beneath the waves of some family pools with questionable chlorine content.
The other part of this is I have id'ed a source for the Lexan (aka Polycarbonate on 1, 1.5,2,2.5 inch sizes) to build these WTCs (still need someone to cast the endcaps though...) but the tubing only comes in 8 ft lengths and I don't need 6 feet of spare Lexan laying around. So I am wondering if anyone would like to go halfs in the tubing, ie receive 4 foot lengths of 1, 1.5, 2, and 2.5 inch polycarbonate tubing. I am also looking to buy some of the clear sheets for building equipment trays.
Byron,
As far as seals go, I have been working on a seal for my rotating radar in my Gato. The seal's ID is 1/16" and OD is about 3/16". Basically I just used some small silicone aircraft fuel line and that seems to work great. If you have any more questions I'd be happy to go into more extensive detail. I'm thinking though that since these models ain't gonna go very deep at all, the seals don't need to be that high tech. In my case too with the 1/400 Alfa, I don't have any room for regular servos, so I have to use homemade electromagnetic servos which are not strong enough to move through tight seals.
So is your plan to use one of these radio systems or two in your Typhoon?
I am planning on using one, and then having the bow planes "fixed" but still adjustable so that if I want it to run on the surface, than I can manually change the pitch of the planes. I am also planning on making all of this stuff completely removeable so I can put it in other small kits, Maquette's Kilo for example. Maybe if this works well I will build two cylinders on two different frequencies and then I can operate them together.
I have decided that the batteries that come with the Microsizers cars are a bit too small. I think I am going to order a few of these instead]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFD80&P=7[/url]
Jonathan
[color=#000000]The Typhoon project]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Gerwalker/kilito01.jpg[/img]
But after buying one of them in e-bay it looks so cool and it worked so well that I have decided to keep it as it is (a nice toy!) In that micro-sub you can go fwd, back, up and down, turn left and righ. The only thing you cannot do is to make the "turn on a dime" (i.e. left motor fwd, right motor backwd) mannouver typical of other micro subs. So I wonder if they used that characteristic to operate the vertical propeller to go up and down...
So far I will use two motors and receiver from an extra micro sub with the props at 45° I have (I receive it as a gift from a seller since it has some minor defects) and maybe one of the micro car motors and receiver for the diving system and bow planes control.
I used polycarbonate tubing from McMaster-Carr. Part #8585K16 is 1.5 inch O.D. with .125 thick wall. For the end caps I used polystrene rod. Part # 8720K38 is for 1.5 inch O.D. solid rod. I then took this to our local machine shop and had them make 4 end caps with o ring grooves. They work great, only problem was they charged $20 per end cap. I found that out after getting them made. So I just turned some on a drill press. Not high tech but it works. Just lately found the article on how to cast them, looks like it would be much easier.
The other part of this is I have id'ed a source for the Lexan (aka Polycarbonate on 1, 1.5,2,2.5 inch sizes) to build these WTCs (still need someone to cast the endcaps though...) but the tubing only comes in 8 ft lengths and I don't need 6 feet of spare Lexan laying around. So I am wondering if anyone would like to go halfs in the tubing, ie receive 4 foot lengths of 1, 1.5, 2, and 2.5 inch polycarbonate tubing. I am also looking to buy some of the clear sheets for building equipment trays.
All up I worked out the cost at around $92 plus shipping so half would be in the 40-50 buck range.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Byron
Byron,
If the offer's still good, I'll spring for the other half of the order. I'd love to get 4' lengths of 1", 1.5", 2" and 2.5" tubing! BTW, I see the smaller three sizes are available in 1/16" thicknesses. If it's OK with you, I prefer the 1/16" thickness to the 1/8th thick tubing...
Feel free to contact me]editor@subcommittee.com[/email]
The other part of this is I have id'ed a source for the Lexan (aka Polycarbonate on 1, 1.5,2,2.5 inch sizes) to build these WTCs (still need someone to cast the endcaps though...) but the tubing only comes in 8 ft lengths and I don't need 6 feet of spare Lexan laying around. So I am wondering if anyone would like to go halfs in the tubing, ie receive 4 foot lengths of 1, 1.5, 2, and 2.5 inch polycarbonate tubing. I am also looking to buy some of the clear sheets for building equipment trays.
All up I worked out the cost at around $92 plus shipping so half would be in the 40-50 buck range.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Byron
Byron,
If the offer's still good, I'll spring for the other half of the order. I'd love to get 4' lengths of 1", 1.5", 2" and 2.5" tubing! BTW, I see the smaller three sizes are available in 1/16" thicknesses. If it's OK with you, I prefer the 1/16" thickness to the 1/8th thick tubing...
Feel free to contact me]editor@subcommittee.com[/email]
Many thanks,
Carl
Carl
I will need to get back to you as, just at the moment, I am about to buy a house in Westchester so will have to put this on hold for a few weeks.
I still want to do this as I have a bunch of smaller models I want to convert...
The other part of this is I have id'ed a source for the Lexan (aka Polycarbonate on 1, 1.5,2,2.5 inch sizes) to build these WTCs (still need someone to cast the endcaps though...) but the tubing only comes in 8 ft lengths and I don't need 6 feet of spare Lexan laying around. So I am wondering if anyone would like to go halfs in the tubing, ie receive 4 foot lengths of 1, 1.5, 2, and 2.5 inch polycarbonate tubing. I am also looking to buy some of the clear sheets for building equipment trays.
All up I worked out the cost at around $92 plus shipping so half would be in the 40-50 buck range.
Let me know if anyone is interested.
Byron
Byron,
If the offer's still good, I'll spring for the other half of the order. I'd love to get 4' lengths of 1", 1.5", 2" and 2.5" tubing! BTW, I see the smaller three sizes are available in 1/16" thicknesses. If it's OK with you, I prefer the 1/16" thickness to the 1/8th thick tubing...
Feel free to contact me]editor@subcommittee.com[/email]
Many thanks,
Carl
Hi Carl
I found that Dave Manley of Small World Models is making polycarbonate tubing available for small WTCs now]http://www.geocities.com/smallworldmodels/parts.htm[/url]
Clear Polycarbonate Tube -
For superior strength and safety, always use polycarbonate tubing, and not regular acrylic tubing, for ballast tanks.
At the moment, as we have not moved into our new house yet, I am loathe to buy a large amount of tubing and then have to move it in June. After that time I will have a dedicated hobby room, having excess tube around won't be a problem. If you need the tube earlier than that, the material above might be of assistance. Byron
I am thinking of doing something similar to what was suggested in the original post, but I have a 1/700 scale Kursk that uses twin screws. I am going to use two rc systems one from a micro sub that I bought at walmart and one from a bit car. I am going to use the twin motors to control fore/aft and right/left movement. The other system from the bitcar I will use to make a linear actuator for a balast system and I will use the coil for the dive planes. I have no pics yet, nor have I really started, this because I have 4 more finals between now and next friday, but I am going to get going on the project right after that.
I am thinking of doing something similar to what was suggested in the original post, but I have a 1/700 scale Kursk that uses twin screws. I am going to use two rc systems one from a micro sub that I bought at walmart and one from a bit car. I am going to use the twin motors to control fore/aft and right/left movement. The other system from the bitcar I will use to make a linear actuator for a balast system and I will use the coil for the dive planes. I have no pics yet, nor have I really started, this because I have 4 more finals between now and next friday, but I am going to get going on the project right after that.
Adam
1/700 Kursk? So my idea of using the Dragon 1/700 Typhoon is not that crazy!! I would like to know how do you plan to build a small ballast system like that. My plan is to use the car motor in a vertical shaft propulsion system, but the ballast idea seems to be more fun!
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