Don't get too excited just yet; brass props

[steve nuttall]

Ok today I took a leap of faith and cut off one blade of the plastic prop; I was thinking i could duplicate the kits ones in brass
Here is the first; I still need to program the opp hand hub; but they are looking good so far

[sam reichart]

more cool stuff Steve...keem 'em

more cool stuff Steve...keem 'em coming!

[novagator]

What are those for?

What are those for?

[steve nuttall]

What are those for?
Well to

What are those for?

Well to be truthfull; they rotate and propel ships or Uboats through the water; bigger versions with thiner blades can actually pull aircraft off the ground and make them stay in the air for as long and the device rotates; unbelieveable is it not
They are called Propellers

[anonymous]

I'll take two for my

I'll take two for my boat when they are ready Steve. Super job Steve. I'm keeping my eye on you.

Steve

[steve nuttall]

Hi Steve

I just finished the

Hi Steve

I just finished the LH set
I now have to solder the blades perm
I'll shape them once soldered

What I might do it sell them in pieces; it would be way cheaper; soldering would not be too diff


Had to have a bit of fun with John there; just could not resist; must be watching to much MPFC

[anonymous]

Hey. I know how to

Hey. I know how to soldier. That's the easy part. But it would be better for you (if you made a bunch) not to have to do that part of it. This would then be called a prop kit.

Keep us up to date as there are a lot of guys out there building this boat for RC.

Steve

[steve nuttall]

Regular Weller soldering gun; high

Regular Weller soldering gun; high setting
took about 30 sec to heatup; little dab of 1/16th solder; whamo got it



Cleaned up and thinned on the edges; polished with 600 WD


Tried it in a Glass pot of water; with just a small motor and only3volts on regular drycells; not even Duracell; worked very well indeed; moved a lot of water and no cavitation like the kit prop had
I reduced the pitch from 45dgr to just 30 dgr across the hub

[anonymous]

So how long until you

So how long until you make them available? Not trying to rush you or anything but hury the #### up would you? LOL!!!

These look great Steve. I'm sure Turbocat, Big Dave and a few others would be interested as I am. Sure hope you have a paypal account. Most of us have one hidden from the wives to better our hobbies in peace.

I also made my own props to scale size and they worked very well in pushing the boat along at a good speed. However they didn't look as pretty since I used wheel collars as a base.

Steve

[steve nuttall]

The hub is the thing

The hub is the thing that makes them look good for sure; the cnc is great for complex shapes like this; and hooooooo the repeatablity

I have to make a program for the blade; i'll mill them out so they are also matched; i made these 6 blades by hand

If I was working somewhere with access to a wire edm and some tool steel; i'd make a die to punch them out

Still being at home has some advantages

Yes i have a Paypal account
Still wondering what they are worth? I think these will be like the AC barrels I tried; no one wants to pay what they are really worth
The slot milling took 12mins; the turning of the hub and drilling just 4min (thats the fastest part)
Cutting them by hand (don't even go there) LOL
I think I can cut some from the milling; but I can't lose my last 1/32nd cutter (hoooo-noooo)

[anonymous]

Well Steve being an X

Well Steve being an X Jet kit maker I know what you mean about charging what they are really worth.

I made big 7 pound electric jet kits of scale aircraft. Plugs, molds and glass fuses for awhile before the epoxy made me sick and I sold them out to another company that is now making them.

It's difficult for sure to come up with a number that allows you to make a fair buck for your skills and time and still make them happy.

Wish I could suggest something but being that I'm not a machinist I really couldn't assess what's involved in time and materials. What ever it is it will be worth it. Making subs and sub parts is a much more narrow field than planes. Keep that in mind too.

Your volume will be lower and everyone understands that.

I'm currently working on my own sub kit of the Washington class boat. 1/96 scale. But the hull will have to be made of vacuum formed ABS as that's still safe for me to work with.

Still I haven't a clue yet what to charge. Less than glass hulls because vacuum formed cost less in materials and you can make a whole bunch of them in a day.

Appendages will be a different story as they will be all cast in urethane from silicone molds. D&E miniatures will be doing that part of it as David is helping me with the project.

Steve

[steve nuttall]

WELL BUSTED THE 1/32ND CUTTER

woudn't

WELL BUSTED THE 1/32ND CUTTER

woudn't you just know it!!

I was trying the blade program and just pushed it too hard

well thats it for now; i can't cut the hub without that; have to order some more
I can still play with the blades; I'll move to a 1/16th

[Guest]

would be interested in a

would be interested in a set of props shafts and bearings it all looks rather nice

[steve nuttall]

I tried a 1mm ball

I tried a 1mm ball cutter; the blades can be made in 5min each; thats still attached to the 1/2 x 1/32nd K & S Brass
I think if I offer them with the brass stock still around them and clean-up/removal etc is up to the builder i can keep these at least affordable

[steve nuttall]

This is the first 3

This is the first 3 blades still in the brass stock
The round nose cutter seems to help with speed of cut but will leave sharp edges for the builder to file off etc