Dave Welch's Kilo WTC

[jsl]

in dave's instructions, what is

in dave's instructions, what is the diode used for? and if needed where does it go?

The diode levels some of the voltage spikes induced by the movement of the motor. Charging and discharging the coils in the motor creates those voltage spikes.

A final larger spike occours when a motor is shut off. The diode counters this by making that spike short out over the motor itself.

Mount the diode on the motor terminals and remember to mount it in the correct direction. The lined end of the diode must be soldered to the therminal where the motor recieves the positive voltage.

Hope that helps...

Jacob

[turbobearcat]

in dave's instructions, what is

in dave's instructions, what is the diode used for? and if needed where does it go?

The diode levels some of the voltage spikes induced by the movement of the motor. Charging and discharging the coils in the motor creates those voltage spikes.

A final larger spike occours when a motor is shut off. The diode counters this by making that spike short out over the motor itself.

Mount the diode on the motor terminals and remember to mount it in the correct direction. The lined end of the diode must be soldered to the therminal where the motor recieves the positive voltage.

Hope that helps...

Jacob

Anode to + side of the motor.. ok!

what is the Diode rating?

seems strange for a guy to have a Degree in Elelctronics
to have to ask these questions

Mark

[jsl]

The rating is irrelevant. The

The rating is irrelevant. The spikes are voltage spikes and draw only little current. But as long as they are not decoupled, they can be a nauseance.

I can't recall the specs of the diode mentioned, but a fast recovery diode will decouple the spikes faster and not allow them to develop.

If you want the full monty, solder one pin of two small 0.1 microFarad ceramic capacitors to each terminal and the other pins to the motor casing. That will more or less suck up the last of the spikes.

That electronics degree of yours... Just how long ago was that?

[turbobearcat]

The rating is irrelevant. The

The rating is irrelevant. The spikes are voltage spikes and draw only little current. But as long as they are not decoupled, they can be a nauseance.

I can't recall the specs of the diode mentioned, but a fast recovery diode will decouple the spikes faster and not allow them to develop.

If you want the full monty, solder one pin of two small 0.1 microFarad ceramic capacitors to each terminal and the other pins to the motor casing. That will more or less suck up the last of the spikes.

That electronics degree of yours... Just how long ago was that?

Awhile ago...in a place far far away...

No wait that's Star Wars..

I like figures to play with instead of having a fire in the WTC wrong wattage or voltage type could spell fire or a meltdown.. I seen this happen to a RC boat once...funny to see smoke coming out of the ship.

but just wanted to see what the hubbub was about the diode(which made me wonder why not use a CAP?), I have tons of .01 uF caps around the room.


Mark

[jdbostrom]

So you run the Silversides

So you run the Silversides website on the big model sub!

I guess it depends on what you compare it to. It is 1/72 scale, so only about 52" LOA. Fair amount bigger than your guys's Kilos and Seawolfs (wolves?) though.

Boss Subfixer-
Thank you, I can't quite figure out why the link didn't work though. Well at least it isn't my website's problem.

Jonathan

[turbobearcat]

Well after waiting a few

Well after waiting a few days a buddy from work is trading me some micro servs for regular size servos....

I hope to have this Kilo ready for the weekend and testing in the koi pond Also noted I did some work to the Seawolf
and getting her ready soon. I might just use PVC piping and hope it never leaks. 2.5 inch I.D. should do it?

What do you think Dave?


Mark

[anonymous]

Mark,

Just stick to Dave's design

Mark,

Just stick to Dave's design and you'll have a great running boat. As you can see by my video it works great.

Glad to hear you went with the small servos. And Mark. you'll save more money and time in the long run if you save your money and get Dave's Seawolf WTC. It's so turn key.

Steve



Edited By U812 on 1110933131

[turbobearcat]

Mark,

Just stick to Dave's design

Mark,

Just stick to Dave's design and you'll have a great running boat. As you can see by my video it works great.

Glad to hear you went with the small servos. And Mark. you'll save more money and time in the long run if you save your money and get Dave's Seawolf WTC. It's so turn key.

Steve

I made a change to the design, my motor was abit longer so I drilled out the endcap and used it as a motor mount
outside of that everything else looks good.
The Seawolf I have parts around the house that I need to use, me buying that Shelby Charger is going to take a bite out of my extra spending money for a few months.

I'm using the Mabachi 6v motors on both subs and a good chance on my son's New Jersay and my unbuilt Uboat.


after I get my servos, I will post pictures..


Mark

[turbobearcat]

as promised and Steve reminded

as promised and Steve reminded me...

[turbobearcat]

I haven't set up everything,

I haven't set up everything, the ESC has a ton of wires that are thick I have to deal with unless I buy another smaller unit from Tower Hobbies, I want to go compact as can be, but after I get all the wiring and plumming straightened out, I think I should be in good order.

No leaks just setting in water..the rest I hope to finish by the weekend.

Mark

[anonymous]

Mark,

Looks great and thanks for

Mark,

Looks great and thanks for the full sized pictures in your email you sent me.

Since your using the 6 volt motor you won't need a regulator for the pump and you can use a Novac spy. It's perfect. I have one and I love it but I couldn't use it on the kilo as the voltage from my pack is 11.1 volts and that would cook the little guy.

So I got an ST-10. Also fits good without the case but the spy will fit with it with room to spare. Wires are smaller too since it's 10 amp controller.

Steve

[bigdave]

Hay Steve, I have been

Hay Steve, I have been working on a scale prop for the Kilo. What do you think? I am working on a prop, I just thought this looked so cool. I had to post it. Dave.

[Larry Kuntz]

Dave,
This should do better than

Dave,
This should do better than the planning "White Russian" of Crazy Ivan's. You just may have created a tail-standing sub.

[bigdave]

Larry,
If the motor was

Larry,
If the motor was powerful enough in the Kilo to spin that prop the sub would turn not the prop. Ha Ha. I would have to go some to beat the Crazy man in a race. He has the real flying sub. Here is the prop I just finished. It is made from 1/32" copper sheet. It looks bigger than it is, it's only 1" DIA. I had some free time while some parts were drying. I could not take the Kilo to the regatta without a simi-scale prop. Dave.

[anonymous]

Dave,

Very funny!! LOL!!

Hey the real

Dave,

Very funny!! LOL!!

Hey the real deal looks great. Now I'm going to have to go gets some copper today and give it a shot.

Any advice?

Great work as usual.

Steve