Final configuration-Freon/Propel (5 BAR+) MK148 Gas propelled Torpedo with MK113/SL Fire Control System for the 1:48 Scale RC Submarine.
Post late '70s US Nuke Boat. So easy even a Non-Qual can figure out the design and replicate. For the record, the 2 BAR Butane was too wimpy.
Not for sale, and the 3D files are classified on a "Need to know" basis and you don't need to know. Don't ask, If I did it, so can you.
Learn: SubRegatta 1993 Part 3: Gas and Electric Torpedoes with Mike Dory and Wihlem Huxhold
I prefer the 3 O-ring "Nozzle End Cap" as opposed to the "Plug" like they did in the past, safer I think. If I get an overpressure condition from sitting in the sun, because she's impulsed out by a spring as opposed to her own power or "gas impulse", she's locked in the tube with less chance of shooting Granny in the eye. The 3 ring seal Nozzle cap should pop off long before she'll burst and you'll just have a "Hot Run" in the tube.
I can print 2 weapons at a time, and assemble one in 10 minutes or so. The longest part is waiting for the JB Cold Weld to cure overnight lol. The "Nozzle End Cap" takes just about the same amount of time. It's a reliable seal that's replicated easily enough. No lathe work for those of you without room for one.
The Nozzle is pulled from a Gray 1/2" 16Ga (.065 OD) Blunt End Luer Lock Dispensing Needles Syringe Needle Tips Pack of 100 (Amazon), acts as the seal to the three O-rings. The Standpipe is brass .9mm OD and .7mm precision tubing which equates to the Diameter nozzles of the nozzle orifice Mike mentions in the above video. That as you see goes through the tail cone and is flush with the aft end of the SS nozzle. The resin printed Nozzle cap uses .188 OD x .175 ID AL tube, one end retains the deformation caused by the tubing cutter and retains the 3 O-ring. Press fit on to the "resin cap". 3/32 brass tube runs through the center to feed the propel to the weapon nozzle. When the weapon ejects, the "Nozzle cap" stays.
Match final bearings and shoot.
Now you know enough to get started
Resin (Mk148) and FDM (Mk113/SL) prints.
Video coming soon.
Post late '70s US Nuke Boat. So easy even a Non-Qual can figure out the design and replicate. For the record, the 2 BAR Butane was too wimpy.
Not for sale, and the 3D files are classified on a "Need to know" basis and you don't need to know. Don't ask, If I did it, so can you.
Learn: SubRegatta 1993 Part 3: Gas and Electric Torpedoes with Mike Dory and Wihlem Huxhold
I prefer the 3 O-ring "Nozzle End Cap" as opposed to the "Plug" like they did in the past, safer I think. If I get an overpressure condition from sitting in the sun, because she's impulsed out by a spring as opposed to her own power or "gas impulse", she's locked in the tube with less chance of shooting Granny in the eye. The 3 ring seal Nozzle cap should pop off long before she'll burst and you'll just have a "Hot Run" in the tube.
I can print 2 weapons at a time, and assemble one in 10 minutes or so. The longest part is waiting for the JB Cold Weld to cure overnight lol. The "Nozzle End Cap" takes just about the same amount of time. It's a reliable seal that's replicated easily enough. No lathe work for those of you without room for one.
The Nozzle is pulled from a Gray 1/2" 16Ga (.065 OD) Blunt End Luer Lock Dispensing Needles Syringe Needle Tips Pack of 100 (Amazon), acts as the seal to the three O-rings. The Standpipe is brass .9mm OD and .7mm precision tubing which equates to the Diameter nozzles of the nozzle orifice Mike mentions in the above video. That as you see goes through the tail cone and is flush with the aft end of the SS nozzle. The resin printed Nozzle cap uses .188 OD x .175 ID AL tube, one end retains the deformation caused by the tubing cutter and retains the 3 O-ring. Press fit on to the "resin cap". 3/32 brass tube runs through the center to feed the propel to the weapon nozzle. When the weapon ejects, the "Nozzle cap" stays.
Match final bearings and shoot.
Now you know enough to get started
Resin (Mk148) and FDM (Mk113/SL) prints.
Video coming soon.
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