MK148 Gas propelled Torpedo with MK113/SL Fire Control System for the 1:48 Scale Boat

[QuarterMaster]

Final configuration-Freon/Propel (5 BAR+) MK148 Gas propelled Torpedo with MK113/SL Fire Control System for the 1:48 Scale RC Submarine.
Post late '70s US Nuke Boat. So easy even a Non-Qual can figure out the design and replicate. For the record, the 2 BAR Butane was too wimpy.

Not for sale, and the 3D files are classified on a "Need to know" basis and you don't need to know. Don't ask, If I did it, so can you.
Learn: SubRegatta 1993 Part 3: Gas and Electric Torpedoes with Mike Dory and Wihlem Huxhold

I prefer the 3 O-ring "Nozzle End Cap" as opposed to the "Plug" like they did in the past, safer I think. If I get an overpressure condition from sitting in the sun, because she's impulsed out by a spring as opposed to her own power or "gas impulse", she's locked in the tube with less chance of shooting Granny in the eye. The 3 ring seal Nozzle cap should pop off long before she'll burst and you'll just have a "Hot Run" in the tube.

I can print 2 weapons at a time, and assemble one in 10 minutes or so. The longest part is waiting for the JB Cold Weld to cure overnight lol. The "Nozzle End Cap" takes just about the same amount of time. It's a reliable seal that's replicated easily enough. No lathe work for those of you without room for one.

The Nozzle is pulled from a Gray 1/2" 16Ga (.065 OD) Blunt End Luer Lock Dispensing Needles Syringe Needle Tips Pack of 100 (Amazon), acts as the seal to the three O-rings. The Standpipe is brass .9mm OD and .7mm precision tubing which equates to the Diameter nozzles of the nozzle orifice Mike mentions in the above video. That as you see goes through the tail cone and is flush with the aft end of the SS nozzle. The resin printed Nozzle cap uses .188 OD x .175 ID AL tube, one end retains the deformation caused by the tubing cutter and retains the 3 O-ring. Press fit on to the "resin cap". 3/32 brass tube runs through the center to feed the propel to the weapon nozzle. When the weapon ejects, the "Nozzle cap" stays.

Match final bearings and shoot.

Now you know enough to get started

Resin (Mk148) and FDM (Mk113/SL) prints.

Video coming soon.

[Submeier]

I spy with my little eye, a KEY WEST Sail in the corner!

Very simple construction, my inner TORPO likes the MK48 design.

[QuarterMaster]

I spy with my little eye, a KEY WEST Sail in the corner!

Very simple construction, my inner TORPO likes the MK48 design.

They really are. It was designed in of all things....TinkerCAD, Software for us 5 yo's.

The idea Mike used (in the above video) regarding plugging the Nozzle always seemed a bit difficult to achieve a reliable consistent seal, plus I wanted something one does NOT need a lathe. I went with a "cap" going OVER the nozzle held on with 3 1/16" ID O-rings

Okay, Okay, today's Resin printer can be considered the equivalents of a "modern lathe" lol. But you still need to learn 3D Modeling. This took two years to develop, but I acquired skills! Self taught because I got tired of waiting for the commercially available ones, not that it's their priority, they have other needs to come first, not Ed's! I dig it and bless them for ALL they do.

Everything else is off the shelf.

If one can draw the nose cone, tail cone, Breech mount, trigger release and cap filler....done! It will take time to learn, and if you WANT it, you WILL do it.

Bet it's scalable too.

BTW The pressure exerted on the Nose/Tail cone @ 70PSI is ~11lbs. The 7/16 OD x .405 ID Al tube is rated over 1000psi.