1/32nd Scale Russian WWII SHCH "Pike" Series X Build

[thor]

Both halves of the hull are now complete and ready to pull off the machine:





With both halves of the hull complete it is now time to machine the conning tower. Some very nice birch plywood will be used for this part of the project:

[thor]

Both halves of the conning tower are complete and shown here mated up together.



I made up the forward gun deck out of plastic sheet to make certain everything will mate up correctly. Later on in the project, I will DLP (UV Resin) print out a highly detailed forward gun platform, but this validates my dimensions so far....

[bob the builder]

This is absolutely awesome, Matt. I love seeing the use of milling to create perfectly accurate masters. Out of curiosity, what file format does the CNC mill take?

Bob

[thor]

Hi Bob,

Thanks!! MecSoft Visual mill is being used as the processor to generate the g-code which is then downloaded to the Mach3 control software. The actual 3D elements are being created in Rhino5.

[ccontrol]

Spectacular Matt, love the great pictures.

[thor]

Thanks very much, Steve!

Here is a photo of both hull halves finished and placed together:







Next we'll move on to finishing the conning tower so an intermediate mold can be pulled. From this we'll produce a fiberglass part to begin adding all of the crazy detail that resides on this boat.

[bob the builder]

I think you should just hog out the interior, put a coat of varnish on it, and call it good!

[salmon]

Matt! Coming along nicely. That is a cool sub and a great subject. I learned a lot form the video. Keep it coming.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Bob, I agree with you.

One step further.
Matt should make one more profile, either right or left.
It does not matter.
Make a conning tower and cut it in half and make a well varnished wall profile plaque.

[thor]

You guys are funny! That would be one HUGE plaque!!!

[QuarterMaster]

Sweeeeet....

Manufacture the half hulls and place on EBAY!

You could then retire Matt!!

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

So how hard would it be to reduce the size to half?

[thor]

With 3D CAD, it can be done by the stroke of two commands. Less than 5 seconds....

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Oh goodness.
Here is 35.5" half hull of Endevor. the size is the back board.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/769496915/endeavour-half-hull-yacht?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-art_and_collectibles-sculpture-art_objects&utm_custom1=a4e4ee55-e472-4854-90f4-d4a3c243e735&utm_content=go_1844702580_70388665435_346428929228_pla-354182275568_c__769496915&utm_custom2=1844702580&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7u-vj62R6QIVBMpkCh2QXwyIEAQYCCABEgKwmPD_BwE

Here is 29.5" back board of same boat and this one is used.

https://www.ebay.com/i/333538034156?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=333538034156&targetid=882904020427&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031455&poi=&campaignid=6469981122&mkgroupid=86285324342&rlsatarget=pla-882904020427&abcId=1141176&merchantid=115046699&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7u-vj62R6QIVBMpkCh2QXwyIEAQYByABEgKSIPD_BwE

[thor]

Today we are going to begin the process by gluing the conning tower halves together. Before we get going I want to say a few things about epoxy resins. I have used many different resin systems over the years from various manufactureres such as Chem Associates, West Systems, Fibreglast Systems..etc. They are all quite similar and perform relatively well. I have, in the last 5 years, grown to greatly appreciate the resin systems of Fibreglast. These resin systems are the most consistent performers I have ever used. However, they are fairly expensive. An alternative can be found over at Jamestown Distributors. I started using the Jamestown resins two years ago and have had very good results. Their resins are a tad smelly, so use them in good ventilation. You can visit Jamestown Distributors at WWW.Jamestowndistributors.com. They, also, have the best customer service I have seen in a very long time.

Fiberglast has a myriad of hardeners that you can chose from to suit your particular application. Since I am working in a fairly warm, dry environment, I like to use their 1 hour pot life #2060 hardener with their uncut, unfilled resin #2000. This is a reasonably priced resin system that you can depend upon.

Be very careful, when purchasing your resin & hardeners, to make sure that the resin is unfilled, which means it has no thickeners or other materials to provide a volume with less resin. It is an inferior product and will lead to the production of a part that is not as dimensionally stable. Filled resin systems also tends to be a bit more hygroscopic, which means that they absorb water.

You also need to make sure that the resin system you are buying is 'uncut'. Some companies, in order to provide you a system that is reduced in price compared to the competition, thin their resins out. This also compromises the performance of the system.

If you are working in a very warm environment, you may wish to thicken the resin a bit with fumed silica or thixotropic silca(same thing, different terms). This stuff is great, but you must be cognizant of the amount that you put into the resin or your bond will weaken substantially. We will get more into the use of this product when we get to the mold construction portion of this project.



When working with a resin system in small quantities you need to have a gram scale this is good to at least 500 grams with a resolutions of +/- .1 gram. It is extremely important that you follow the mixing instructions on the back of the can of hardener as it varies with each type of hardener. In this case, you must mix by weight, 3 parts resin to 1 part hardener. I always work in gradients of 10 grams. Easy to keep track of and easy to divide out. Today, I am mixing 30 grams of resin to 10 grams of hardener-3:1. Do not tinker with this ratio! Adding more hardener does not make is cure faster and the inverse is true as well. They are a set molecular ratio and will not cure if it is anything but the prescribed mix ratio. This is NOT polyester resin.....

Use latex gloves and do not get the resin on your skin. You can become sensitized to epoxy relatively easy if not careful. Steve Neill has developed a very bad sensitivity to epoxy. Everyone is different, but please take the proper safe handling precautions...

Pour resin from the can into a separate container. Do NOT ever pour from the can into your mixing cup. You can instantly contaminate your resin this way from foreign matter falling into the cup. It is, also, much more difficult to control the flow of resin into the mixing cup if you are pouring from a large volume container. When I was in full Kit production I used resin pumps, but that is all gone now so I have to go primitive...



Next use a acid brush to apply the resin to the back of the parts to be glued. Apply a nice, even, thin coat. Keep it thin! This is one of those times when less is more. The more epoxy you use, the less joint strength you will have. Wet it out lightly..but no more!!!





After one side has been fully wet out, clamp the two halves together and leave them alone! I use small clips of 1/16" cardboard to prevent the wood from being marred by the clamps.