Tweet
Glued up the boat stand. Used a clamp from Harbor Freight.
The flood holes were drilled with a brad point drill bit and hand drill. You can see the outline it leaves.
You can only drill completely through on one hole. Then clean the other part of the opening with a Dremel (4000) tool with a guide point roto-zip bit.
Since the hull was not glued together I could shove the bit up from the bottom \ inside hull and be able to see the material I was removing.
Being able to slow the Dremel tool down in speed made it possible to use this bit.
Some openings are great and then some are not so great.
Cut the template up for the flood holes and folded over the edge. Taped down with scotch tape.
Numbered the paper and hull with the same number 1 thru 12 I think.
They fit well between the weld lines on the hull.
Took a drill bit in a pin vise and drilled holes on the center marks.
Cut the ends off with a saw from Hobby Lobby.
If you take my friend with you to Hobby Lobby you can get his employee discount on purchases, there.
If I remember right the model was around $90.00 and the discount made it around $70.00.
Not sure how many years ago that was.
This is where the drastic surgery on the hull takes place - opening the upper hull.
Cut the vertical cuts with the saw. Then cut the horizontal cuts with an X-acto knife by dragging the back of the blade.
It scrapes a curl of plastic with each pull. I tried to count the number of strokes and guess somewhere around sixty plus
to break through the thick plastic. Not fast but kind of soothing to watch the curls come off.
For the first (easy) part with the pins I let the knife follow the intersection of the curved and flat surface.
I should have not cut the cross joint connection pin pocket off. We will see how strong it is after the glue dries.
I had previously taped the hull and decks together and made a pencil mark that can just be seen in the picture to help
judge what I wanted to cut out. All these steps can be found in other builders build logs. Nothing new under the Sun.
I used the front piece I cut off and taped it to the rear for a guide. This worked well as a guide.
For the middle section I leaned the blade against the flat vertical surface to guide the cuts.
The blade wandered on me a little, but it looks pretty good. Stuck the pillow in the boat to
help prop the hull while cutting.
It took a while of figuring (reading others builders work) and getting the nerve to cut into the boat.
Something has been accomplished here but not completed.
The width of the opening is around 2 ¾” so I think I am good there.
The building Journey continues after a long stop.
The flood holes were drilled with a brad point drill bit and hand drill. You can see the outline it leaves.
You can only drill completely through on one hole. Then clean the other part of the opening with a Dremel (4000) tool with a guide point roto-zip bit.
Since the hull was not glued together I could shove the bit up from the bottom \ inside hull and be able to see the material I was removing.
Being able to slow the Dremel tool down in speed made it possible to use this bit.
Some openings are great and then some are not so great.
Cut the template up for the flood holes and folded over the edge. Taped down with scotch tape.
Numbered the paper and hull with the same number 1 thru 12 I think.
They fit well between the weld lines on the hull.
Took a drill bit in a pin vise and drilled holes on the center marks.
Cut the ends off with a saw from Hobby Lobby.
If you take my friend with you to Hobby Lobby you can get his employee discount on purchases, there.
If I remember right the model was around $90.00 and the discount made it around $70.00.
Not sure how many years ago that was.
This is where the drastic surgery on the hull takes place - opening the upper hull.
Cut the vertical cuts with the saw. Then cut the horizontal cuts with an X-acto knife by dragging the back of the blade.
It scrapes a curl of plastic with each pull. I tried to count the number of strokes and guess somewhere around sixty plus
to break through the thick plastic. Not fast but kind of soothing to watch the curls come off.
For the first (easy) part with the pins I let the knife follow the intersection of the curved and flat surface.
I should have not cut the cross joint connection pin pocket off. We will see how strong it is after the glue dries.
I had previously taped the hull and decks together and made a pencil mark that can just be seen in the picture to help
judge what I wanted to cut out. All these steps can be found in other builders build logs. Nothing new under the Sun.
I used the front piece I cut off and taped it to the rear for a guide. This worked well as a guide.
For the middle section I leaned the blade against the flat vertical surface to guide the cuts.
The blade wandered on me a little, but it looks pretty good. Stuck the pillow in the boat to
help prop the hull while cutting.
It took a while of figuring (reading others builders work) and getting the nerve to cut into the boat.
Something has been accomplished here but not completed.
The width of the opening is around 2 ¾” so I think I am good there.
The building Journey continues after a long stop.
Comment