Revell Gato 1/72 scale build

[salmon]

I just wish I could see many of the prior photos in color. The darker stripes along the waterline are they green or brown or black?


I can not have my wish and get some of the B&W photos in color, but I can make color to B&W to compare.
I went through a few sub pictures and pulled a few pictures as my test.

[salmon]

I saw a posting somewhere that again US subs did not have a lot of rust. I used to believe that, but since playing with color to b&W, I may have to disagree.
Look at these originals, they are color from 1943-1945 and then my conversion to b&w

O.K. this one, the rust does not completely disappear on the b&w photo, but what might be thought of as chipping or primer is actually rust.



The rust streaking down the CT might look like water staining in b&w or not be noticed at all



The aft end of this sub has a portion of rust, not a little, but a lot. Gone in b&w - might be thought of as shading.



Another aft end with a decent amount of rust. In b&w it disappears into looking like a worn gray (or is that grey?).

[salmon]

More with rust in the trunk.


Here is a great shot of another Sub - More rusty aft. I think this was more common and b&w photos do not show the rust. Combine that with many photos being after repairs and I can see how the thought of the subs being kept up comes about.



Doing more research, I ran into this Pic, look at the sub on the right (a Sargo class - I think).


Those mufflers are right by the areas that have shown rust on the Gato/Balao. If the Gato/Balao had them in the same area (which I think they do) heat from those massive mufflers cooked the paint and promoted rust. Add a bit of exhaust gas with a large amount of sulfur, mixed with water creating sulfur dioxide or sulfuric acid which will definitely cause rust!

[salmon]

https://youtu.be/fR_Zh16zExY

Now the rest of the story........
When I arrived at the pool, the first run was frustrating because she would not dive. So I took her out of the water and did some adjustment to the bow planes through the wFly TX.
Then I did the second run and that is what you saw filmed. It was fun.
The third run was going to get more underwater film - then it happened almost right away.......


Wait for it.......





That is not me surfacing..... that is me cruising along slowly. The aft end seemed to lose its buoyancy (my first thought was water leaked in). Interesting was watching the sub as speed was added and see the leveler bring the rear up for me to a semi-level position. This mission was cut short.

Pulling out the sub, to my relief the WTC was dry (which is a very nice thing). No weights were floating around no foam lost......What the flip happened?
Working theory.....lets see what you think.....In placing the foam in the hull, I must have gaps that have trapped air, the longer I am in the water the air slowly leaks out until it gets to the point of changing the positive buoyancy to Davey's Locker homing beacon.

To test out my theory about trapped air behind my foam, I placed the Gato in the pressurized polyvinyl chloride hydro test tank (aka inflatable kiddie pool) and emptied the ballast tank. She sat a little high, so I gently shook the submarine underwater to see if any bubbles came out (broke off the 40 gun barrel - we have the technology to fix her) and if the Gato would sit better. She did! She sat at the proper positive buoyancy. I left her there to sit. When I came back about an hour later.......


She had settled to the bottom of the pool. I trimmed her from this state adding foam to the bow, mid-section and aft to get her to the proper trim. Tomorrow I will test her at the big kiddie pool. The key will be to let her sit and get cozy with the water and emit her gas - such a proper lady. It's a working theory.

I have done different tests, one person suggest I make sure all the air was out of the ballast tank - So I took the deck off while it was submerged and there was no air in there. I thought of water in the WTC, but it has been dry.

As far as the foam absorbing, I do not think so. Here is a crayon drawing of what I think is going on.


I think by my poor installation of foam and not shaping it to fit closer to the sub is the root of the issue, I have trapped air behind my foam. As the sub sits in the water the air slowly escapes and changes the buoyancy of the sub. It is trimmed perfectly for the first few minutes, but as time passes it slowly fills those vacancies with water. I will trim with the heavier sub.

[salmon]

Got some more pool time in.

The good news after an hour or so of running her, she did not sink or rest at the bottom! The not so good news is it took some tweaking to finally get her to dive. Then it ended with her acting erratically And me breaking the barrel of the 40mm and the bow light support, grrrrr. All fixable (again).
Some of the erratic behavior is chattering servos and speed controller surging. Rear going down (very end of day). This time I think I need to re-calibrate the ADR2. All stop and the Gato was level. move forward and the aft would go down and bow up. The one other thing I noticed, when going in reverse, the rudder's click-on connector would disconnect. I may have to replace it with my connector.
Sam got some sub time in too! Did a fine job.


I ran the sub for 40 minutes no issues came up other than it is slightly buoyant. I also took that riser from underneath the 20mm (although some boats had them, I never cared for it).
and drilled a vent hole.


There are a couple of other areas I added holes to vent trapped air.

[salmon]

Final test before open water.



All ran well and it is time to go open water.






Success!

[salmon]

Here are some images from the past few years of running this wonderful submarine.















Some after thoughts.
While I liked the way I opened the top, it is not a fat finger friendly environment. A mid-hull split would be a better route if your hands are not delicate. Even though this was my first sub, I would generally not recommend this as a first sub. The Skipjack by Moebius or Revell is a much easier sub to build. That being said, the Gato is my favorite sub.I love the look of it.
Make molds of small do-dads you might break off (like a scope).
Be persistent to completion. It can be easy to feel overwhelmed and put off building this sub. Keep at it and post your build here at SubCommittee. It will help you and others on the same path.

Tank you for reading this thread. Ask questions if you have want.

[sam reichart]

Great build thread. I wish we saw more like this with the level of detail you provided. Yeah, it's hard work chronicling the steps, but in the end, it's a great resource for anyone looking to build the same model. Thanks Tom!

[salmon]

Sam,
Again thank you. I agree. It does take time to record your build, but it also is a great resource for our hobby to show what one does while building. If I can hack my way to getting a sub to work, anyone can. I show the successes and errors, I mean, learning points because we learn from both points of view. For me, the best complement is someone getting their sub running after reading someones work in progress (WIP). I learn from a beginner and seasoned builder alike. I know I am not all knowing, so building online like this allows others to share their knowledge and for me to learn a new way to do something.

I have two other builds I need to add sometime and I need to get back to finishing my Type IX build already started on this site. With that I have two other subs in the lineup (a Seaview (second hand and just need to add Sub-Driver and trim) and a Blueback) and a handful of other subs that need to get going on (Kilo, Type VII (2 of them), LA, Type XXIII, another Gato/Balao, Type IX (1/48 scale) and some others I am forgetting). Our hobby is, in my opinion, the best hobby to get your mind thinking and overcoming challenges. I have done the planes, trucks, and boats. Boats I like because of the details you can do (I may do a tug boat as a recovery vehicle hopefully in the next decade), but for the most part subs keep me going. I was not good at airplanes, dyslexia or sheer disorientation, has a way of making fragile planes test the surface of the earth. Trucks are O.K. Tanks might be cool, but for me, water has always been a medium I love.
It is 2019.....So, my challenge to those having a sub collect dust, pull them out of storage and create a WIP. Share your knowledge so we can rise up the next generation.

[salmon]

Archer has some resin weld bead and rivet detail on clear decal film. http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsNaval.html

I see I missed responding to your post! Please forgive me.
Thank you for the reference!
Having seen others use the Archer brand welds and rivets. I am likely to order some to play with. I have another Gato in the stack (actually 2 if we want to be technical) and I am not sure how crazy I want to get in detailing. There is so much you can do to customize these Gatos, but I tend to break things with my clumsy hands, so I am more cautious on going crazy on details.
Happy New Year!
Peace,
Tom

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Tom.
After you having posted so many photos of weathered real boats, I think I will hold off on weathering.
Like many other things.
I am not going for a lot of detail.

For example: there are so many small parts on the deck guns that when I drop them on the concrete floor, I can not find them. (well some of them)
I have sort of gone to the 10' rule.
If I stand back 10', can I see the parts?
No! put them in the parts box for possible later use.

Thanks for all those photos.
Turning color photos to B&W to compare is something I have done for years. (since computers would let me)
I was trying to get colors for WWII European planes from books.

[salmon]

Ralph,
For almost all of my subs I believe in the 10' rule. The Gato, because it is so interesting, you can go either way.
Pondside, people will look at details. Out in the water, not so much. Everyone has different interests. Some want accuracy and some not so much. I swing back and forth on that. Since I have a couple of Gato models maybe one will be Uber detailed and one might be a model without all the breakable stuff or show a different phase. All this to say to each their own!
It is just fun sailing with you. Look forward to our next meet.

[scott t]

Tom,
Enjoying the build log. Ralph and your build has caused me to move the model from upstairs to a working table.
Then it caused a search for glue and tools.
Hopefully this build will move beyond dry fitting some parts together.
Can you tell me the dimension of your WTC? Diameter and length?

Thanks,
Scott T

[salmon]

Scott,
If you are asking me, it is 2.5" diameter and it is under 26" in length (I am not at home to measure).
I am so glad to see you getting closer to taking that step to starting the Gato!
Peace,
Tom

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

I have not built my wtc yet.
My cylinder is 2.5" in diameter and currently 29" long.
It fits but I think I will cut some off to get more room for the control rods outside the cylinder.