Help needed for SWM Blueback WTC

[secrtwpn1]

I am at odds with my SWM Blueback WTC. It has an approx ¼” hole at the top where the water enters the ballast tank. I’ve destroyed the original o-rings so that’s out. I cannot find anything to make this water tight until I open it with the servo. I am thinking of a ¼” conical washer to make the hole smaller, thus helping with the watertight integrity. Is there such an animal as this washer? Or…..does someone have a gently used SWM Blueback WTC that they would be able to part with???? Or just the ballast tank section……..

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Thx
Farlan

[JWLaRue]

Farlan,

Has the top of ballast tank been damaged? If not damaged, the original o-rings can be replaced.

If you can post a photo or 2 of what you are describing, we can probably help you to get things fixed.

-Jeff

[secrtwpn1]

The first pic is the original configuration.....second is what the internal part looks. The WTC is not damaged.....

[secrtwpn1]

Ill try the first pic again!!!!!

[JWLaRue]

Perhaps one of these may serve as a replacement:

http://www.skinnerco.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=74_88

-Jeff

[Guest]

You might want to consider making something that uses conventional o-ring seals, which are not bespoke and readily available.

Have a look at SCR Issue 42, page 28-30 showing Greg Sharpe's design.

Failing that, if you have a lathe, you could machine a cone type holder( metal plastic etc.) that uses a fat o-ring for the sealing part.

Another alternative would be get in touch with Tom Chalfant, as I understand he has the tooling for the SWM WTC's, perhaps he might be able to help you out.

[scott t]

Maybe you could mold yourself one with silicone rubber.

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Farlan, have you come up with a solution yet?

Would be happy to help out.
I am sure you and I can come up with one if you want to bring your hull and parts by.
The photos are not helping me visualize what it is you have and need.
I have seen various valves so, I would think something could be made.

Ralph

[secrtwpn1]

The earliest I could get out there is Sunday afternoon.......

[secrtwpn1]

It appears the Achilles Heel for my ballast system on this thing is the attached photo. The servo horn some times twists freely and causing the cams not to activate the Propel tank. I've used Gorilla glue and my model super glue to hold it, but after awhile it breaks loose.....The arrow on the photo shows where I need to glue it. Any suggestions?

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Does the metal rod go in to the foam block?

If so, maybe a groove could be ground in to the rod that would allow glue to get a grip and hold the rod in position and not let it turn.

If you would like to see if we can fix this, I have no plans to go any where, Sunday.
Just need a time so I can clear off the work bench to make room for you boat and parts.

Let me know here or by e-mail.
I have no phone and I like it like that.
.

[Guest]

Seems to be an independent issue to your original post.

[subdude]

Farlan,

To address your last issue first, I drilled a tiny hole through the side of the resin block and the shaft, then glued a tiny piece of wire through the hole. That prevented the shaft from rotating in the plastic block.

As to the rubber plug not fully sealing, before each run I push a bit of silicone grease in the hole on top of the ballast tank to seal the rubber plug. Not the best, or a permanent solution, but it's been working for me for a decade or more.

Jim

[secrtwpn1]

I've just about solved my earlier problems.......Now I need a female to female Tamiya connecter. I need another inch to connect the speed controller to the battery. Is there such an animal??????

[Ralph --- SSBN 598]

Can you pull the plug ends from one plug and then add a length of wire to each lead?

I do that with power wires and servo wires.
Cut the wire so I can solder a piece of wire to make it longer and I slip a piece of heat shrink tubing on before the soldering.