Two subs, one driver?

[southern or]

Lots of useful stuff from today. Sorry Bob, I thought you were talking about the overall boat lengths, not the WTCs. You think it would be possible to install a bladder system outside of the WTC?

Thanks Chips, but how did you assemble the hull without knowing the bulkhead requirements?

Dave! Good news! I also have a T9CAP and a bunch of WFLYs. I was trying to trade them for a WTC with no luck.

[chips]

Basic tools: cardboard or poster board for template; pencil; compass or circle template; knife or scissors; and sub hull.

The NAUTILUS is a cast resin hull, split horizontally. I knew the diameter of the driver I was purchasing was 2" x 15" - which is the distance from the front end cap to the end of the motor shaft. The cylinder length between end caps is about 13". In my case the saddles can't be any farther apart than 13"; I set them at 10". The NAUTILUS saddles are located between the flood holes on the bottom of the hull. I made a cardboard template of the interior hull at the saddle location. I marked the vertical center line and horizontal center lines on the template. I set my drafting compass for a 1" radius and drew the arc. Traced the template onto some Lexan sheet, and cut the templates out on a band saw. Sanded them to fit the hull and installed them. The same process applies whether you start with a fiberglass hull or a plastic kit. I made my saddles the same way for my Trumpeter SEAWOLF and 1/72nd scale Scale Shipyard SKIPJACK. The second picture is a third saddle I installed. It is located under the ballast tank of the sub driver. The brass rod fits inside a matching hole drilled in the bottom of the ballast tank. The pin secures the sub driver fore & aft in the sub. Velcro straps secure the driver to the forward and aft saddles.