Steve. I just reread this thread. What an outstanding job you are doing with this boat. Its just beautiful!
HMS Repulse 1/96 RC scratch build
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Progress at Oct 2018
Yes you're right, dim by the time I get home. It will have to be by electric lighting - which doesn't give a high resolution on my camera. But here is current progress at Oct 2018. Tiling effect is being applied to the hull where Repulse was tiled. These scale tiles work out at 3mm square. So lots of them!
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Thanks guys. The jig idea I copied after seeing someone else scratch building sub hulls. Certainly it is a necessity to mark lines concentrically about the hull. But also the base which is a nice flat even surface - after I discovered my flat looking dining table was in fact not flat at all ! Datum lines are so important when doing things like this. It also makes it really easy to work on the underside detailing by simply rotating about its axis.
Dave I hope you like the new bow, after the new info you gave me. (Thanks agin!) It was a lot of work to correct the front end but well worth it. I hope you see your own bow shape in it too. Certainly the refit sonar window blister completely changes the look of the front end compared to the original flattened as launched shape. Addition of the dive plane fairings also gives it quite a different look.
I really hope to finish Repulse before the year is through! ..So many other juicy projects I am longing to get my teeth into.
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Hi Steve read you whole built report in one go…….. wonderful details you put on the sub.......you use techniques that are new to me ....so I'm back to school here.
I have a few questions about them:
can you tell me how the process works?Originally posted by steveuk View PostThe final outer layer of tiling was made using printers litho and glued on. I know this is old school, but I dont have CAD and 3D printer.
You used the technique for the sail but used a different technique on the hull.
Can you give an insight on this one too?Originally posted by steveuk View PostThe tiling has proved to be a big challenge, because on Repulse the grid pattern is raised not recessed. In real life it is basically caulking applied very untidily in between all tiles. If they were recessed lines I could have scribed them in like panel lines. But this needs to be a raised grid pattern. On this model each tile works out to 3mm square! I think I finally have the solution now though. Glue is drying on my latest 'experiment'.
Thks & Grtz,
Bart
And I want one of these beautiesLast edited by bwi; 12-09-2018, 09:17 AM.Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"
http://scale-submarine.com/index.html
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Hi Bart. To answer your questions
1) Printers litho - full name is Litho Plate. It is thin Aluminium sheet. Letters and shapes can be embossed into it using a blunt instrument- I use an old ball point pen which has no ink left. So you can easily draw a grid pattern with pen /stylus and ruler. The shapes push out the Aluminium on the other side so you end up with a raised grid. Or whatever you draw onto it. Thinner point gives thinner line. But too thin and it will cut through, so not a very sharp point like a knife.
2) Litho will not curve around compound curves. It works for the Sail because that is only curving in one plane. For the compound curves of the hull I have developed a different technique. I am basically making a grid pattern using fine thread and glue. The finished grid sheet has enough flex to wrap around my complex shapes and glue onto the hull. I am sure it would be easier to 3D print this stuff, but I don't have one of those.
Best regards, Steve.
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Thks Steve, learned a lot today again....thks for sharing this stuff......love this hobby....keep up the good work sir.Originally posted by steveuk View PostHi Bart. To answer your questions
1) Printers litho - full name is Litho Plate. It is thin Aluminium sheet. Letters and shapes can be embossed into it using a blunt instrument- I use an old ball point pen which has no ink left. So you can easily draw a grid pattern with pen /stylus and ruler. The shapes push out the Aluminium on the other side so you end up with a raised grid. Or whatever you draw onto it. Thinner point gives thinner line. But too thin and it will cut through, so not a very sharp point like a knife.
2) Litho will not curve around compound curves. It works for the Sail because that is only curving in one plane. For the compound curves of the hull I have developed a different technique. I am basically making a grid pattern using fine thread and glue. The finished grid sheet has enough flex to wrap around my complex shapes and glue onto the hull. I am sure it would be easier to 3D print this stuff, but I don't have one of those.
Best regards, Steve.
Reading your explanation for the grid sheet, I had A flashback to the renovation of my home. There I used a reinforcement tape for the seams of the Drywall board/ plasterboard/wallboard/sheet rock, gypsum board/gypsum panel or whatever the name is, that could be used for it imo. picture below.
Hell, I'm going to give it a try and see what the result is after painting.
grtz,
Bart
Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"
http://scale-submarine.com/index.html
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H Bart, Thanks. Yes, I looked at this too. We know it as plasterers scrim tape in UK. It is quite close to what I want. It wasn't the exact right size for Repulse, so I decided to make my own for the sake of authenticity. Works out at 3mm squares. Good luck with your project, and let us see your progress on a new thread. What sub are you building? I would like to follow your progress.
Regards, Steve.
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I'm still building my VICTOR III
and I built a AKULA.
I like to try things out that maybe, someday I can use when I need it. I want to learn as much as possible from others before all those techniques vanish. My sea daddy sort to speak is David Merriman, and I steal from many others too, everyone comes up with workarounds, some of them are brilliant and are helping me to overcome problems I encounter myself.
I’m not against CNC routing or 3D printing tough, I use it myself as an aide when it will save me a ton of time, which is not always the case. It’s not giving me the same satisfaction as crafting it myself but when I use it I get the satisfaction from designing the part.
Grtz,
BartPractical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
"Samuel Smiles"
http://scale-submarine.com/index.html
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Hi Bart,
yes I have learnt a lot from reading Davids various write ups, and from many others too. I agree about the old techniques, craft, skills. Before CAD and 3D completely replace them. A little like the analogue and digital worlds. I do enjoy the hands on modelling.
Now I am off to look at your build thread...
Regards,
Steve.
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Finished - 2020 now off to be moulded !
I am happy to report I did finish this pattern (actually well within 2019). Current status is - handed over to be moulded. It's over to Ron now to get the pattern moulded. I did find a few more pics I took towards the end stages. I gave the pattern a quick dusting of primer grey to identify any imperfections for fixing and then gave it a coating of black primer. The can said matt but the finish came out more like satin. Well this gives a good idea how she should turn out if she gets moulded in black, which is the current plan. And now I am off to build some more of my own sub projects.
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Hello Steve,
Great to hear from you. Could you post some more pics you have of the final master. That would be awesome.
I am thinking about doing some further detail on my hull. With the exception of a new set of moulds for the sail I don’t plan on doing any major work on Resolution except for just a little more detailing of my hull.
Regards,
David H
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