Adapted Vent Valve Electronic Set-Up

[corsaire]

As I'm planning on retrofitting my Sub Drivber after the meltdown, I'm pondering the possibility of replacing the incorporated vent valve that came with the
WTC with the one in the picture attached. Excuse my ignorance on electronic circuits but, how would you set up this vent valve electrically so it can get activated via
radio signal. It's got two wires at the end of it. Thanks.

[JWLaRue]

You will want an electronics module that allows you to use a radio channel as an on/off switch. Something like the SubTech SES unit. I'd have to check to see what is currently available since SubTech is temporarily not available.

Alternatively, you could use a servo with an arm that can depress a micro switch to energize the solenoid in that kind of valve.

-Jeff

[bob_eissler]

Subdriver has a es2 switch to do that. Their large pump and controller lets you do it too. I use the setup in a rcabs George Washington sub. Mikessubworks also makes and sells one. I have found smaller vent solenoids on amazon and eBay.

[corsaire]

This valve (I think it's Skip's, got it back in the 90's!) already has an incorporated solenoid valve (the little blue barrel, see pic, at the other end of the openening), when you connect the two wires to the battery it gets activated on and off. I think only a sort of switch is needed like Jeff said.

[salmon]

Did you have a problem with the vent valve?

[corsaire]

Did you have a problem with the vent valve?

The original vent valve works but even after applying a drop of oil or drop of hand soap will eventually wash off and an air bubble will get trapped. That orifice needs to be
bigger, that's why I'm thinking on adapting Skip's valve onto it.

[salmon]

O.k. We addressed this before. I am sorry, I did not put two and two together.

[bob the builder]

Brian,

You could also just increase the size of your vent, which would be a lot easier than re-engineering with a solenoid. KISS (keep it simple, stupid!) principles apply. Bear in mind that completely venting your ballast tank currently takes about, what?, 5 or 6 seconds now? Increasing the size means you'll be completely flooded in just a few seconds. Could make partially-full dives problematic unless you plan to only utilize completely full or completely empty...

[corsaire]

Brian,

You could also just increase the size of your vent, which would be a lot easier than re-engineering with a solenoid. KISS (keep it simple, stupid!) principles apply. Bear in mind that completely venting your ballast tank currently takes about, what?, 5 or 6 seconds now? Increasing the size means you'll be completely flooded in just a few seconds. Could make partially-full dives problematic unless you plan to only utilize completely full or completely empty...

Hmmm, that's of course another option, I wouldn't push it too much with the polyurethane material though, even a little less than 3/16 (about 4mm) would be better. The same rubber piece might still do its job.

[corsaire]

Brian,

You could also just increase the size of your vent, which would be a lot easier than re-engineering with a solenoid. KISS (keep it simple, stupid!) principles apply. Bear in mind that completely venting your ballast tank currently takes about, what?, 5 or 6 seconds now? Increasing the size means you'll be completely flooded in just a few seconds. Could make partially-full dives problematic unless you plan to only utilize completely full or completely empty...

Over the weekend I was able to work in the vent valve adaptation of a bigger orifice, for this purpose I replaced the 1/8" brass tubing with a 3/16" dia and it turned out like in the pic, the rubber piece covers the 3/16" opening nicely. Of course I won't be able to test it until all the electronics are retrofitted and installled first, however I don't foresee any problems with this. Thank you guys.