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Originally posted by salmon
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Well, just some things to consider with what's in the name: The WTC stock cap has a pressure release valve that is permanently fitted-backwards so water comes IN and the excess air can't escape, when I was modifying the other cap to make room for the receiver I cut the wires on the servos and had to replace them, the glue they used for the servo boots crumbled so I had to make the WTC um, water tight, the seating rings for the WTC that came with it (marketed and SOLD with the trumpeter kit) are too big so I can't use them, the wiring harness needed to be redone, and then this issue. -
To be fair, the sub itself went together without a problem, even with the operational bashing.Comment
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So, this is new (and a little funny), The Kobayashi Maru had a bird strike. The parrot in question is fine, the subs masts are another story.Comment
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Got some extra time and did some more work on the kilo. Firstly, the Russians don't know what a circle vent is? My Oscar and my Typhoon kit all have square vents. I have a lot of filing ahead. Thing I'm wondering about though is the kilo's vent placement. The Oscar and Typhoon both have vents below the water so having a semi wet hull won't be a problem because it'll free flood. I'm a little concerned about the Kilo because for the life of me, I can't find a vent or hole on it below the waterline. How have others coped with this? Do I hold it underwater to flood when I put it in?Comment
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I am looking.
Here are a couple of drawing I found showing bottom flood holes.
Project 877 boatComment
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Sweet, thanks. Trumpeter must have skimped on the lower hull's detail.Originally posted by Ralph --- SSBN 598 View PostI am looking.
Here are a couple of drawing I found showing bottom flood holes.
Project 877 boatComment
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Back at the bench with this guy. I'm thinking of removing the masts. They keep breaking off anyways and they're considerably dated.Comment
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You might consider making your masts out of brass tubing.
Here are three photos of my Gotland masts, built from scratch.
Assembling pieces.
Finished masts.
The mast are removable.
They push in to holes in plastic horizontal frame pieces put in after the sail was built.Comment
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Thanks Ralph. I could do (most) of that with the rods pieces I'll have left over from the Oscar.Comment
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I did not find it hard at all.
The radar top is a piece of clear plastic I shaped with sand paper block with larger brass tubing ring for the head mount.
The tall mast has a piece of solid brass rod for the top section and the groove was made with a file while spinning in a drill press.
The top section to lower section offset was made with a blob of car body glazing putty, sanded to shape.
The periscope was notched for the viewing lens with a small file and the top rounded piece is made from a wooden match stick and spun in drill press.
The snorkel head is layers of 1/16" sheet plastic bonded together and then spun in the drill press and shaped with a sanding block and file.
The piece on top of the snorkel head representing a light is a piece of 1/16" brass rod spun in the drill press and shaped with a small file.
The three small shafts running up the sides of the Snorkel and em mast are 1/32" piano wire.
I think they all took me about 40 minutes to make the parts from the photo.
All the parts are glued together with water proof glue.
No soldier was used.Comment
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My Kilo is 1/144 so I'll probably forgo some of the finer details (like the antenna wires), but I can probably use Apoxie Sculpt for things like the radar cover. It looks like the Russians completely refit the masts on the Kilos after Trumpeter made the molds. The big difference is that the kit comes with an open radar dish rather then a covered one and it looks like they reconfigured the air intake snorkel. It shouldn't be too hard except that the round stock I have that's about the right size is stainless.
I'd rather not do the radio antennas because I keep impaling myself on the ones fitted to my destroyers.
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