Sub Driver (aka WTC) Leaking Vent Valve

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  • corsaire
    Junior Member
    • Mar 2003
    • 166

    #1

    Sub Driver (aka WTC) Leaking Vent Valve

    Can somebody please advise if anybody else can outsource this part other than Dave Meriman ? See pic.

    I tried to get it from him (long story), he promised to ship it two weeks ago under warranty, and still haven’t got it. I tried to email him, call him, no response, nothing. I even kindly sent him an email offering to pay for it and shipping as well (Priority Mail or next day), no response at all whatsoever. Sorry to say but his customer service really sucks.

    Please, help, I was looking forward to run my boat this weekend but I guess that will be a futile endeavor.

    Much appreciated.
    Attached Files
  • bob the builder
    Former SC President
    • Feb 2003
    • 1367

    #2
    The part can't be repaired? We're not talking microelectronics here. A bit of rubber and you should be good to go... no?
    The Nautilus Drydocks - Exceptional Products for the World of R/C Submarines - www.nautilusdrydocks.com

    Comment

    • Ralph --- SSBN 598
      Junior Member
      • Oct 2012
      • 1417

      #3
      Can you clean up the set on the plastic and then a bit of silicone grease on the bolt or seat.
      You can try using paint rubbing compound on the bolt and twist it back and forth with your fingers .

      Is there enough tension when closed to keep the seal tight?

      Comment

      • salmon
        Treasurer
        • Jul 2011
        • 2342

        #4
        So, it leaks. Can you see where? Is the rubber gone? I guess more info and maybe we can help you because I would want to be in the water too!
        Have you tried posting on the Sub-Driver forum? (not saying you should have to, but it is another option too!)
        Last edited by salmon; 07-02-2015, 05:59 PM.
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

        Comment

        • corsaire
          Junior Member
          • Mar 2003
          • 166

          #5
          The rubber is still in place, sealing with RTV around the piece perimeter is no problem either. The polyurethane material chipped off a tiny piece off in the under side of the orifice where the rubber piece plugs the hole, I tried to silicone it but with no success so far.

          Comment

          • bigdave
            Junior Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 3596

            #6
            What is underneath that rubber part?
            Does the screw head seal up against the underside of the rubber, or is there something attached to the bottom of the rubber that seals? Do you have a photo of the underside? BD
            sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
            "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

            Comment

            • southern or
              Junior Member
              • May 2014
              • 484

              #7
              Have you tried Sunstar's G U M ortho wax?

              Comment

              • corsaire
                Junior Member
                • Mar 2003
                • 166

                #8
                Originally posted by bigdave View Post
                What is underneath that rubber part?
                Does the screw head seal up against the underside of the rubber, or is there something attached to the bottom of the rubber that seals? Do you have a photo of the underside? BD
                I've been trying the big part of the afternoon to fix this to no avail. so maybe I could make the boating reunion tomorrow at the pond nearby sponsored by a local club but.... In the pic, you'll see the underside of the part previously posted, the orifice (vent hole) is chipped off in one side, the rough texture you see in the pic is silicone.
                Attached Files

                Comment

                • Ralph --- SSBN 598
                  Junior Member
                  • Oct 2012
                  • 1417

                  #9
                  Looking at your photos, this is what I would do.
                  1. I would pick out some scrape styrene plastic. (I happen to have lots of it as a scratch builder)
                  2. I would cut several pieces the size of the the piece in your hand.
                  3. I would slowly bend the pieces to fit the curve of the cylinder. (with styrene I can bend it with my fingers)
                  4. I would bond several layers while holding the cylinder curve. Just put clear packing tape on the ylinder and use it to hold the shape with clamps.
                  5. once it is built up as thick as the original, let it cure for a day or two.
                  6. Shape the edges with files or sand paper blocks.
                  7. Drill two mounting holes.
                  8. For the valve I would drill a hole big enough for a small o-ring to fit tight in. The o-ring would be big enough for the valve stopper to fit in to but not go through.

                  9. Apply silicone grease to all sides of the o-ring.
                  10. The valve stopper should seat on the o-ring and seal.
                  If you think you can make the valve hole smooth enough, you could eliminate the 0-ring.

                  This is a part I think could be made in 30 minutes or less not counting curing time.

                  I would also put silicone grease on the part before mounting it on the cylinder.
                  I am not a fan of hard seals. The grease is easy to apply. Easy to remove to re apply.
                  It worked very well on underwater camera cases in the 60 and 70s for me.
                  I built one sub with a silicone caulking with a flat hatch.
                  Worked fine until I took it apart and tried to reuse it.
                  Big mistake.
                  Very glad the camera cases was clean and some one told me to put a little bit of red Cool-Aid in the case so I could see when water was getting in it.
                  Never happened in my camera case but the sub had two almost disastrous events.
                  Red Cool-Aid anyone?

                  Comment

                  • Ralph --- SSBN 598
                    Junior Member
                    • Oct 2012
                    • 1417

                    #10
                    I have a web page with instructions on how to make a cutter.
                    This will cut the hole needed to lace o-rings or cup seals.
                    Making a cutter

                    Comment

                    • bob_eissler
                      SubCommittee Member
                      • Aug 2005
                      • 340

                      #11
                      So you need to fill the chip and have a smooth surface to seal against? How about filling with bonds or auto body filler and sanding and polishing after? I think jb weld will work there too.

                      Comment

                      • bigdave
                        Junior Member
                        • Feb 2003
                        • 3596

                        #12
                        I like Ralph's idea but as you don't have the time I would try this.
                        Take some paste wax and put a few good coats on the screw head.
                        Then take silicone RTV and add a thin bead around the underside of the hole in the rubber part.
                        Then take the part and carefully mount it on the cylinder tube.
                        Let the RTV set up and the carefully remove the rubber. It should come off easily with the wax on the screw head.
                        Leaving a perfect mate for the screw to seal against. BD
                        sigpic"Eat your pudding Mr Land"
                        "I ain't sure it's pudden" 20K

                        Comment

                        • Ralph --- SSBN 598
                          Junior Member
                          • Oct 2012
                          • 1417

                          #13
                          Dave, your recommendation is simple and quick.
                          Could very well be a permanent fix.

                          Nice!

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